I need a close-up picture of your edge detail.

Trebruchet

Here is a link to a youtube video i took of the edge for you.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuIEwj5jIPk&list=UUZHJJ05ZqBHRLkpCwF1-d3A

Having tree limbs reaching over the roof isn't a good idea, even without considering the visible damage that's causing. The decaying leaves on the roof will shorten the life of the roof and could lead to premature leaks.

You've got a couple of issues to deal with. If this were my house I would trim back the tree limbs so they're not over the house, I'd go up on the roof regularly to clean off any leaves, and I'd add a gutter.

Lots of problems.

Cut back the trees---you notice where there are no limbs(right side) there is no damage.

No metal drip edge.

Shingles starting to curl. First sign they are worn out and need replacing.

No gutters. That allows the rain to drip on the fascia and saturate the material.

If that fascia is the hardboard product like I think the siding is---it is probably too far gone to save and needs to be replaced. But, not with a similar product. Use primered/painted wood or Azek plastic trim material.

I'll wager the sheathing under the shingles on the edges is damaged as well.

handymac

there is a metal drip edge.
If you look at the the video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuIEwj5jIPk&list=UUZHJJ05ZqBHRLkpCwF1-d3A

the drip edge is under the shingles and extends down about 2 inches. It may be hard to see because it has been painted to same color as the house. Thers is a piece of wood that extends down about 3/4 an inch under the drip edge and then the fascia board is under that and it is about 6 inches. But the wood piece directly inder the drip egde is rotting in places.

Please advise.
The roof was replaced less than 5 years ago.

You will need to provided better up closer pictures but if that roof was replace within the last 5 years and that rot has all happened since then you have serious issues going on. From the pictures the shingles do look as though they are curling as well as not hanging correctly over the edge. Is this roof/house properly vented? My bet is that rot is only the tip of the iceberg!

I included the variety of drip edge used in my area. It is installed on the sheathing so it extends over and not touching the fascia about 1/2" to 3/4". The shingles then are installed to overlap the drip edge by about 1/2".

That causes any water to drip off the shingles and drip edge instead of wicking under a drip edge in contact with the fascia material.

Fascia material should not be a pressed wood or similar material unless it has water proofing material built in(epoxy resin or similar).

Millworkman also saw the possible shingle problems and mentioned a possible cause. And, as I predicted, you have more than one problem. You will need to remedy all of them to prevent the problems you have.

Here is a link that might be useful: Drip edge

handymac
millworkman

no you guys have me very worried!

What causes the shingles to curl?
Should i call the roof installer back, even after 5 years?
And yes there is attic ventilation.
Infact, it there are soffits right under that part of the fascia.
The fascia wood is probably the same wood as the board and batten siding. I believe it is pine. Built in 1960.

Is there a ridge vent? There are two vents there but more bays than. There really should be continuous soffit and ridge vents so that each rafter bay is vented. A 5 year old roof should ave had both done the same time. Excessive heat build up causes shingles to curl generally which is caused by inadequate ventilation, Shingles should also be overhanging approximately 3/4 to 1" past the fascia.

Ok, I finally looked at almost the entire video---instead of the first 30 seconds or so.

From about 1:15, the damage gets much worse.

There are soffits---the horizontal sections under the area from the fascia to the wall of the house----but, are there vents in the soffit areas and are those vents clear into the attic----and is there sufficient exhaust area(roof vents/turbines/etc) for the air in the attic to escape?

The best advice I can give---it is very difficult to determine the exact problem(s) over the Internet---is to find a competent roofer/company to inspect the roof and determine the best repairs.

How to find a competent roofer/company? The longer a company has been in business, the more satisfied customers they have. Competent, experienced roofers will have a list of satisfied customers and addresses---go look at their work. Ask folks, there are competent roofers who work for less money and still do a good job---their customers will also be happy.

The gotcha is anyone can say they are roofers---I've put shingles on houses using volunteers. Took us three Saturdays to do a house pro's would get done in a day and a half max---and I had 10-12 folks working. But, those were now houses(Habitat), not reroof jobs.

Looks like the shingles are OK. The wood cornice and fascia needs to be replaced with 5/4 wood primed and painted on both sides, then an eavestrough installed to keep water off it. It is not particularly difficult if you have some basic tools and some extra hands.

The tree overhang needs to go as mentioned above. The low pitch of the roof is not ideal but not much you can do about that.

If the rafter ends are rotted then you would need to sister some new material (2X8) to them to have something to nail the fascia to but that is unlikely.

This post was edited by DBrown2351 on Mon, Jul 28, 14 at 20:35

handymac

Yes, those dark areas you see in the picture i posted are the vents. There are 2 next to each other and they are about 3feet wide each. If you go into the attic, you can see light peeking through these vents. there are 7 more of these vents around the entire house and there are 2 turbines. Plus the house is less than 900 sf.

That is better.

I still feel you need an experienced roofer to look at the roof. Get the tree limbs away from the roof and see what the pro says.