APS meeting 2018 Portland, Oregon
6 years ago
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Some USDA zones for various Northwest locations
Comments (17)Tom, I think the answer is it depends on the airport, but usually, yes airports are colder. The main reason is that airports are invariably on flat land and frequently on valley bottoms which are frost pockets. Some of them (i.e. Sea-Tac) are on plateaus which aren't as cold as valley floors but still have inferior drainage to sides of hills and any kind of sloping land. Some people live on flat land but a lot of people live on slopes and hillsides especially closer to the water (it would be fun to study what percentage of residences are on slopes of, say, 5% or more). But certain airports should be considered as exceptions because there is so much development around them - including Sea-Tac, Boeing, and Paine Field. All of them are in the middle of concrete jungles and thus probably aren't any colder than the surrounding areas. By contrast you have airports like Olympia and Spokane which are relatively undeveloped themselves, not surrounded by a concrete jungle and definitely much colder in winter (verified by locals, temperature readings and indicator plants) than the cities they represent. I have some support for this idea. If you plot a running average of the lowest temperature every winter for Sea-Tac there is an abrupt rise during the 1950's-60's that is much greater than that of other weather stations in the region. This can only be attributable to the amount of development in and around the airport during that period. I provide the raw data for that here (although the article is actually about something else): http://www.desertnorthwest.com/articles/enso_effects.html That's interesting that Port Townsend records at the fire station - it's about 170' up and 1/3 mile inland, on top of the bluff; meaning that downtown itself, and places like Fort Worden, are probably even milder. Is there a list online somewhere that tells you where each weather station records? I'd love to see it. Here's a quick survey of the coldest temperature during the December 2008 freeze in a few Port Townsend Locations: Jefferson Co. Courthouse 19F Madison St. and Foster 17F Port Townsend Paper (right on the water) 22F Woodland Dr. (near airport) 13F Far Reaches Farm, Hastings Ave. 8F (says them)...See MorePEX pierced by Western Conifer Seed Bug
Comments (25)Glad to see I am not alone with this issue. I am a builder in Roseburg, Oregon, and recently have had the exact same issues as some of you. I first noticed a leak in the entry closet a few months ago while I was wrapping up a new spec home. The house had already been painted, including trim, and wood floors down. I noticed mold and swelling around the drywall of the finished trim and above the door. Our plumbers found 3 microscopic leaks, all within a foot of each other, that sprayed water so lightly they were likely leaking for months before damage was visible. After sending the bad pipe to Uponor we received the same news that the pipe was exposed to Western Conifer Seed Bug and damages would not be covered. Then, just 2 weeks ago, i noticed some swelling in the baseboard and trim around the bottom of the same door in the exact same area!! The plumbers came out to find 2 more of the same tiny holes about 2 feet down the line. I don't know if they didn't see the last 2 holes on the first repair or what but I had them remove/replace all of the line they could reach. Also, it was only the 1/2 inch line that was damaged in my case, even tho there was a 1'' line in the same area as well. This time I kept the damaged pipe so I can have some private tests conducted. I called our Building Official to bring up these issues and he told me to talk to the State Building Codes Division, which I saw one of you also suggested. I plan to do so too. I also had a local exterminator, who has been in business for 28 years in this area, take a look at the wall section where the damage occurred before I covered it up. He is going to write a sort of testimonial saying there were no signs of bugs in the wall of the house. I don't know how much this will help me in my battle against Uponor, but it can't hurt and it may be something for others to consider. He also suggested I contact the entomology program at Washington State University to see if they would be interested in further researching this issue, which I plan to do as soon as I finish here. We should all be spreading the word about this issue and exploring more ideas for how to make real changes....See MoreRemodeling condo kitchen-asbestos concern
Comments (23)California homes in 1974 weren't being generally built with ceramic tile floors. It was mostly vinyl tiles or sheet vinyl. The previous owner(s) probably had the tile put in at a later date. By 1978 little to no asbestos was being used in much of anything. Grout or tile having asbestos? No the contractor is being shifty. I think the "contractor " is taking advantage of your inexperience with remodeling and trying to pocket a extra cash on the side. I would let Lowes know about it. They don't need the eventual bad rep guys like this will bring on them. Asbestos fears are overstated anyway. The fear mongering is insane. Removal companies capitalize on that fear. Ship builders and people who have worked around it all their lives get ill. Not a homeowner changing out a floor. Taking up even an old asbestos vinyl floor isn't going to create much dust and you have to breath in the dust for it to to be harmful. If it's a concern wetting the area down will take care of the little bit found in the average home built back in the asbestos days....See MoreHello from an old member, now a new member seeking advice.
Comments (20)Hello All, Thank you so much for your tips and advice. Its lovely to be welcomed back after such a long, long break. David, you jogged my memory. I met Laurie and Jean once more than ten years ago and I trucked out to Reliable Roses and we (and the rest of the Vic crew) spent the day there then had this amazing Indian supper at a restaurant near their place. I wonder if they will remember me, they both used to be forum users way back in the day before Houzz took over gardenweb. I think they will be my first port of call, I remember Laurie being particularly surprised that such a young person had an interest in roses and Jean was just so inspiring and helpful. Its good to know they are still around. I will call them and have a chat about what they're likely to have in stock for the bare root season. I hit the Misty Down's website and saw that it was under construction, really quite sad that they're not doing roses. But thank you for clarifying that David. Thank you for your advice Countess, I was leaning to Lamarque, and I did remember it had the hint of lemon, but I think it would be nice, I'll look at your links to see if there is anything else. Carol, hello, the entire front is going to be white and green plants only and I've been debating which rose since the fence is a gable style with a low wall in the centre, for a total of 8 metres. Originally I had a William Lobb moss on that front fence and it was freakin' spectacular. Until my "very kind" neighbour trimmed back "my messy rose" chopping 8ft flowering canes (which were tied to the fence) down to the ground one year and it never grew right after that. Very unfortunately it could not be saved at all. PortlandMystery: Victoria has Mediterranean style temperatures cold winters, damp but warm spring, hot summers, and warm autumns. Roses have always done well in my garden, owing to the microclimate of the immediate neighbourhood. Lots of people here have big shade trees, loads of roses and underplanting. I never had to use pesticides either. This means that roses usually get far bigger than they're meant to. Every single David Austin rose I had grew four times the size that was recommended and I grew a Westerland on the advice that it would never get bigger than a 6 foot fence and that bloody rose could have taken over my house. Ingrid, Snowbird! That's a good idea as well. It might end up on a different wall in the front garden. I quite like Noisettes but I worry that they are so vigorous that they might be too much for the low fence at the front. Probably a good idea to think about them for pillaring out the back. Curdle, thank you! I definitely want a Docteur Jamian rose for a pillar feature I have. My Docteur Jamain had these beautiful long canes after it got established that I can imagine would work well for a pillar. I wanted to position it between a Zephyrine Drouin if I can find it. Thank you all, you've given me some great starting points and triggered my terrible memory....See More- 6 years agolast modified: 6 years ago
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