Ericta，your plant, I think, has got some damage on its root sysytem. This could be resulted by two thing, 1. you put too much water so the soil in pot is too wet that the root system cannot breath well. 2.Osmanthus like acidic soil, and in most cases, after long time of watering, the soil's ph become higher, that also damage root.

In Dothan AL I just saw 4 very mature Livenstonia Chinensis (12-15ft clear trunk) that saw temps near 20 and suffered about 80 percent leaf burn. The other 20 percent or so of the foliage is still nice and green. Apparently these get burned but are still a solid species for zone 8. Also, at my house I had a low of 19.8 and had two queens that had been in the ground over a year. Both of them were covered...both of them are now toast. I am replacing them with mule palms. Phoenix Canariensis, Phoenix Dactylifera, Trachys, Butia Capitatas had no damage at all. For some strange reason, my small Sabal Palmetto had a new spear coming out that fried and then pulled...I'm still trying to figure that one out.

You have to stop worrying about symmetry. Think more in terms of balancing the massing of the cabinet run and appliances. Don't crowd all large things to one side or area and ignore another. Having something perfectly symmetric can be boring and un-subtle. This is a drawing I did for my kitchen layout. It is not symmetrical, but it is balanced. The stove/hood balances the fridge, both in stainless. The cabinets are all different sizes, but they compliment each other. Casey

At the risk of writing an indictment of soil testing, I'll dip my toe in here. First, I want to make clear that soil testing is an important and useful tool, regardless of innate weaknesses. It is not an exact science, however, with over 70 years test development, field testing, data collection and refinement, there exists some pretty dependable data reflecting ranges of nutrient levels at which plants (including grasses) respond favorably. Sufficient nutrition (or lack thereof) is a major factor in plant health and crop production (for turf grasses, this is reflected as aesthetically pleasing lawns, thick, soft green and insect and disease free). Consequently, it makes sense to adjust nutrient levels to insure that they fall within these broad ranges and eliminate one major factor from the lawn/garden "problem" equation. As I like to say, "It's more hand-grenades, than darts." There are so many variables, that there is a lot of unavoidable "fudging" in soil analysis and recommendations. One example, out of many: Recommendations are made on the basis of weight. One weight used is an acre furrow slice calculated to be 2,000,000 lbs. That's 43, 560 square feet to a depth of 6.7". Why 2,000,000 lbs? It is assumed that the soil is a loam with a bulk density of 1.33 g/cm3 or 83 pound/ft3. 83 X (43560 X 6.7/12) = 2,024,458 lbs. What's a few thousand pounds between friends? Rounded, let's call it 2,000,000 lbs. Are all soils loam? Wouldn't a clay soil with a bulk density of 1.0 or a sandy soil with a bulk density of of 1.6 make a difference? A second weight used is for nutrients. Nutrients are measured in parts per million (ppm). It has been determined, that multiplying measured ppm by a factor of 2, will result in the total poundage weight of any nutrient in one acre furrow slice of soil. All nutrients weigh the same? Isn't a defining difference between elements their unique differences in molecular weight? The point is, despite all of the variables and "fudging", as long as things are done as consistently as possible, the result will be a useful scale for comparative purposes and a reasonably accurate basis for nutrient adjustment. So 0-4" or 2-6"? It really is important to determine the nutrients that are available in the root zone (it's why farmers commonly test at both the 0-6" and the 6-24" layer). A couple of things to keep mind: 1. Common consensus is that the majority of roots for our elite turf grasses is 0-4". 2. Deeper roots result in lawn turf that is less affected by fluctuations in environment (weather, drought, etc). 3. Studies have shown that plant roots will propagate/proliferate in areas of soil where nutrients and moisture are present. Ideally, tow tests would result in the greatest collection of useful information. Say one from 3-6" and one from 0-3, or 0-6". Realistically, most people aren't that anal and neither want to pay for multiple tests, nor do the number crunching that would make multiple tests beneficial. Therefor, measuring from 0-4" is preferred (as long as fertilizer granules aren't included) as it takes into account nutrient abundances that may exist in the top inch of soil and avoid detrimental over application if they aren't taken into account. After all, gravity will always eventually win and those nutrients will move down...s o m e t i m e.