No thoughts on that from me. If you think organics is pricy and time consuming, then you are reading the wrong guidance. I do it because I am cheap and lazy. Oh and it works great!! You may have seen my favorite alfalfa picture but here it is again... Most people seem to think organic fertilizer costs 10x more than chemical fertilizer. The cost for Scott's fertilizer is about $2.50 per 1,000 square feet. For alfalfa pellets, at an application rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet and a cost of $12.50 per bag, that comes to $5.00 per 1,000 square feet. So the cost is really in the same ballpark either way. With chemicals many people make mistakes which kills all or parts of the lawn. You almost can't make a mistake like that with bermuda, but it happens with other lawns. People always wonder if they fertilize one day and it rains heavily the next, do they need to fertilize again?? With organic the answer is always, "no." With chemicals, who knows? You probably do, but do you want to risk overdosing? With a chemical only approach, eventually you will exhaust the microbes in the soil and you will get on what we call a see-saw. You will add more and more fertilizer trying to get results and the grass will actually perform worse. ...aaaaaannnnd then it finally greens and thickens up. That never happens with organics. If you are not willing to go all the way into an organic program, I would highly recommend at least one dose a year of at least 1/2 rate of 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. That is the same cost as the chemical. You can apply at the same time as the chemical if you like. The reason would be to keep your soil microbes from becoming exhausted. They need food. How often they need the food and under what circumstances we don't really know, but once a year is a good start.

@OP - You were getting a late start this year. Likely your lawn will still be covered with weeds this summer. I would encourage you to consider "Lawn Solarization". This process takes 4-6 weeks during the heat of the summer, and will kill all weeds, weed seed, and pathogens in your soil. The nice thing is, there is no chemical residue left over, so next fall when you do your overseed you will be in real good shape. One of the things I like about Organic lawn care, is that it forces you to think outside the box. It's easy to pickup a chemical weed spray, or manage a 4-step program... It takes soil knowledge and a buildup of healthy soil to successfully manage your lawn organically. I always tell people, if your really not into it, managing your lawn organically isn't going to work... Even when you are interested, it can be frustrating! That's why the vast majority of people go to the big box store and just throw around whatever they are selling... it takes effort to submit soil tests, analyze results, and apply compost/grains accordingly. This is my lawn, 6 years, no chemicals. Still not perfect, I have some problem areas, and keep learning more all the time.. but my neighbors finally "Get It".. They thought I was nuts when I told them I don't use per-emergence, weed n' feed, 4-step, ect... Lawn Solarization Instructions

If you could go back in time, you should have had it finish graded the first time. Whatever you do to this soil will have to be repeated when the final soil is in. Then you could have started watering it as if you wanted to sprout new grass seed. That daily watering would have sprouted all the weed seeds and then the RoundUp would have given you a perfect bed for new grass. Even if you kill all the weeds in this current level of soil, the new soil will bring in more weed seeds. When you start watering the new grass, the new weeds will sprout and you'll be starting with a weedy lawn. Looking forward if you had the soil delivered today, you could begin watering daily now to sprout the weeds, spot spray the Round Up in a week, and then do your seed.

Excellent feedback. Now we know you're not shooting for yard of the month. You just want to keep the mud out of the house. Shade can be an issue. Tall trees are not always good trees. People often plant a fast growing tree not thinking 20 years down the road. For example in my picture there's a telephone pole, crape myrtle, two mesquite trees, and another crape myrtle further in the distance. I've had the two (ugly) mesquite trees removed to allow the more attractive crape myrtle to flourish. There's a pear tree in the middle of the yard which would be gone if it did not produce tons of pears every summer. This is to say, evaluate your trees to see if they need to be thinned, reshaped, or removed. If you find that your soil is too bumpy to mow, you will need to level it. If it is pretty bad (hard to tell from the picture), then you would need a landscaper to come in with a tractor and a box blade. You're on quite a slope so I would have them look at the drainage in back to ensure you don't flood your basement. On flat land this is a 1-morning job, but for your lot it might take a full day. Depending on the activity level of your dogs, you might not be able to grow grass. Too often people come here asking what grass they need for their two, 1-year old labs in a shady lawn. Well, there isn't any shade grass for active puppies. I usually suggest 2 inches of chipped tree mulch. I haven't heard back from anyone, but that's the kind of mulch they use in our local dog park. They do it 15 inches deep.