Yea, I posted about this a couple months ago. It's pretty cool to see it on Amazon. But if you call Rose-Agri directly it's a little cheaper. I recall paying $4.75 lb, plus shipping.

1. Having my neighborhood go up in flames 2. Having my neighborhood washed away in a flood 3. Having my neighborhood be swallowed up in the next quake, #1 No fires if you stay away from the hill's where there are lots of old dead tree's #2 Floods - Just stay away from those few areas #3 Will yea Earth Quakes are defiantly scary! Can't do much about that. I would recommend a one story ground level house. As you can see I have a two story Cape Cod style home. I'm always worried we will get shook off our foundation. Earthquake insurance it is too expensive with huge deductibles! Everything does grow good here though. Weather is nice most the year. LetÂs see sod laying tips. When I lay sod I straighten the sod edges and corners as I go and make sure no grass gets stuck between the sod edges. This will avoid dead grass and brown and yellow stripes between the sod pieces that can make fungus and just makes for a bad start. I spray the ground with water and put down a little fertilizer as I lay the sod. I always use my square so I get nice square edges when I cut sod. Sometimes I donÂt even till the ground. Sod will live on the patio if you water it. I do it all the time. DonÂt over water your new lawn. Get out there and lift up the sod and see how wet it is. If you over water your new lawn you will get chlorosis and fungus like I have now from too much rain. If I need to replace a small spot I use a plate or bucket for a stencil and cut out the bad piece. Then I use the plate or bucket to cut a new piece of sod from extra sod that I keep on the patio or garden. If you are going to put in French drains or remove and replace tree's itÂs better to do it first. I did it all backwards. I have a spot were an old tree and its roots were removed and it keeps sinking along with the trenches were I put the drains. If you put drains. It is good to attach your rain gutter down spouts to them. Also if you dig your ditch for your sprinklers try to keep the top soil separate from any clay soil that may be down lower and put the soil back in the whole the same way you took it out. The grass grows better on the top soil than the clay. ThatÂs about all I can think of for now other than I like Blue Grass because it self fills. But. If you have shade you will need to over seed now and then were it thins out. I left a link below to other garden pics. I like to grow fruit trees as well. I get all my info for the roses and fruit tree's here on GardenWeb. Take care Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Garden Pics

Hello, Has anyone experienced a white powdery substance on a certain part of their grass. In front of my house looks great but the side of my house is not turning out great. There's about a little more than 8 feet between my neighbour and me and my 4 feet of grass on the side doesn't look great at all and has a white powdery substance growing and looks like it's killing it. Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated?

To get the ball started here, how much fertilizer did you apply to the newly seeded area last year? I'm assuming you did at least one application and didn't get around to a final application. I guess the real question is, what is your concern... Is it that you don't have enough N down for the kbg and you'll lose it? We know common KBG likes something around 3-4 lbs/1000 of N yearly, and general advice on here is have something like 2/3 or 3/4 of your N applied after summer depending on where you live (how long growing season is). So for me, I do one application of around 0.85lbs/1000 N end of May when soil temps are around 65. This is a few weeks after the per emergent window. I don't apply more fertilizer until end of August, and then go hard til October/November. If you're really really worried all of the youtubers seem to like to apply starter fertilizer at 0.5lbs/1000 early in the season, but I don't see the point of it unless your turf is in bad shape. With organics like Milo I am under the impression that they only work when temperatures are warm enough due to the microbes breaking down the pellets and then dying to release the NPK. So if you're pre em is going down when soil temps are at 55, it may be a slow breakdown of the Milo if a cold snaps occurs the next week. But I'm no expert on this so someone should fact check me.