My new Olympiad has black spot. Help!
poseidonprincess
6 years ago
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Help! Black Spot has invaded my garden!
Comments (14)I just want to add my agreement to what Mike Rivers and Snowheather said about the Bayer-tebuconozole and the Banner Max. Both are excellent. Banner Max is much more expensive up front, though it will last much much longer. Either one is generally used on a bi-weekly basis and is best used preventively (the Bayer has a little bit of curative effect). With either of these products, used throughout the growing season you should see very little disease problem. They're well worth the effort. But for the Bayer, you can find "Bayer All-in-One" at any Wal-mart and most Home garden centers. But it tells you to drench the soil, rather than spraying. Easier, yes, but far more wasteful and expensive. You'll run out before you realize it. Plus, that formulation throws in chemical fertilizer and insecticide, which is overkill. You don't need the fertilizer if you're already fertilizing and adding organics to your soil, which we all should be doing anyway. And the insecticide is baaaaaddd on your good bug population and the environment in general. Why pour insect poison into the soil unless you actually see a specific insect problem? Better to spot treat bug problems, instead of using sustained heavy artillary. My 1000% vote goes instead to Bayer brand "Disease Control for Roses, Flowers & Shrubs." It's that same tebuconozole-based fungicide but without the excess fertilizer/bug killer. I've only ever seen this formulation at Lowe's stores, but it IS available at most Lowe's, so ask a store employee if you can't find it on your own. Oh, and I didn't see this spelled out plainly, so...Blackspot spores can spread from anywhere anytime that there is sustained dampness or wetness for at least 6 hours. Once the spores land on the plant surface, they take a few days to germinate. That's why you saw the apparent spread of the disease AFTER you sprayed. It's also why people often experience a bout of blackspot shortly after they bring home a seemingly clean new rose plant. Chances are the rose brought the spores with it. As far as organic methods, fertilizer, yes! bug control, sure!...mostly. but at least where blackspot is concerned, I don't buy into the organic paradigm, not around here, anyway, in Blackspot Hell. Even old garden roses and "Knockout" that are supposed to be highly resistent to blackspot will get some around here. Not enough to seriously threaten their health, but enough to still sap some of their energy that would otherwise go to leaf and bloom production. I tried using Greenlight brand Neem oil several years back and ended up chemical burning my roses. Seems they couldn't handle hot sun with that oil. No thanks. Organic does not automatically mean "safer." Hopefully this will be encouraging to you; Blackspot is most likely to appear in the fall with dampness and moderate temps. It's partly because the foliage is getting old and losing vitality as the growing season winds down. So it succombs more easily to infection. No big deal. It IS nearing the season when the leaves should drop anyway. So start a sensible regular preventive spray program, but also don't worry too much about long-term damage taking over. It's easily reversible. Mike...See MoreMy rose has black spots on the leaves. What can I do?
Comments (0)Blackspot is a plant disease caused by wind borne fungus spores in water drops.They land on the top of the leaves and when growing looks like circular black spots with irregular edges. The infected leaves will finally turn yellow and drop off. If the disease is severe all the leaves will drop off and the plant will have to grow a new set. The quality of the blooms will suffer and the plant will be weakened. Blackspot can not be cured but it can be controlled. In climates where there is a lot of rain in the summer or high humidity it becomes more prevalent. Blackspot can be controlled best by spraying with a dormant oil and sulphur spray in the early spring before the bush leafs out. Then again in the early summer using at half the strength. There are also other ways to keep it control. Clean up all dead and fallen leaves, water when the sun will dry the leaves off or use drip or soaker type hoses, remove first six inches of leaves from the ground up so splashed water won't jump the spores on the leaves, plus feed and water plants well as a weak or stressed plant will succumb more quickly . Finally choose varieties that are disease resistant....See MoreHelp, my calathea has sticky spots on the underside of its leaves
Comments (16)Yep, it's definitely dryness response... I had forgotten to water mine, and that's what happened. Causes can be being rootbound, drop in humidity, and change in environmental conditions. Its certainly not scale, mealies or spider mite. As always, look at it with a jewellers loupe, or magnifying glass... As a keen gardener, I always carry a loupe when doing my indoor/outdoor rounds. This particular phenomenon is a sugary excretion - if not noticed quickly, it dries into a sticky crystalline spot, and leaves a transparent spot on the leaf underside. I have cleaned it off with soapy water, and a fresh water wipe afterwards Any little bugs will have been attracted to these sweet secretions, they are not the cause....See MoreHelp! New honed Carrara vanity top has spots/stains I can’t get off
Comments (3)From a quick web search: Etch marks are dull spots from acidic or chemical corrosion. Since an etch mark is clear or whitish in color it is often called a "water stain" fueling the myth. It is not caused by water, nothing has absorbed into the marble, nothing is on the marble and it is not a true stain. Etching is physical damage to the marble like a burn. Marble polishing is required to repair an etch mark, but it's a simple DIY process using the Etch Remover / Marble Polisher product. To help avoid etching only use products safe for marble maintenance and minimize contact with acidic foods, drinks and personal products. And one last piece of the puzzle... sealing will not prevent marble etching. Yes, sealers help prevent absorption and staining, but cannot stop the physical surface damage that occurs with etching. ___ I'm not sure if the etch remover products that mention work on both polished and honed marble. But would be worth checking out. ?...See More
jim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6
6 years agoposeidonprincess thanked jim1961 / Central Pennsylvania / Zone 6poseidonprincess
6 years ago
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HalloBlondie (zone5a) Ontario, Canada