From the Dri-Cor Site: "For homes where the basement may have an existing subfloor or covering over the concrete surface that may trap, block or absorb moisture, we recommend that it be removed prior to installing the DRIcore panels." None of the glues used to fasten the wood to the concrete are water soluble after they're set. I wouldn't think they would be a problem. To confirm, you can always call Dri Cor's toll free line--1-866-767-6374. If the wood flooring was put down before 1990, you may have to take special precautions as it may contain toxic if disturbed materials. Feliz año nuevo!

Update: I attempted to email the inspector with my questions and such but he did not respond. The builder had told me if I had questions, to ask the inspector, but upon calling an inspector myself to ask about fees and doing an inspection for me, he indicated that they are not supposed to talk to anyone about the issue that did not actually hire them. Since the builder hired them and I did not, then the inspector could only talk to the builder. Once I understood that, I got back with the builder to see where we would go with this issue. Thats when I found out that they had noticed another failure just like mine in a spec house that they did. Same sub did the work. They went in and discovered that the wood floor came back up easy so the planks could be reused, so they redid it using different glue. So now they are doing mine. As I suspected, all of the wood planks have come up very easy with no breakage. There are some spots where the dri tak had held that caused breakage of the planks, but lucky most all were in one confined area since I had previously told them to stop using the dri tak as it was not in my opinion the proper repair. They are using a glue called rocket 7000 i believe. It is a different glue than what he used before. When the planks are pulled up, there is squished glue on the plank and on the concrete, but it is tacky to the touch but does not come off unless you scrape it off, which then it does peel off to some degree. Maybe it is supposed to be that way. Not sure as I have not got into any deep discussion with the builder or the sub about it. I just stay out of their way and am glad they are doing this at no cost to me. Builder and sub have stepped up to the plate to correct this, but it did take some work on my part and some bull headedness on my part. Most of the planks are being reused with some being replaced with new since they can still get them. Any comments or advice?

Thanks for the replies. Update: We had the wrong info from the sales guy at the flooring store. Contractor says the layer of soundproofing he's buying from them CAN be nailed through without affecting the benefits of the layer. So we're now going to nail down, 7.5" 5/8' thick engineered white oak on top of soundproofing layer (see link below, and if anyone's used this please advise if you're happy with it) on top of old plywood. This is a condo built in 1979, overlooking the water in a Northeast climate. Here is a link that might be useful: Sound Solutions acoustic underlayment

I like 1/4" (6mm) cork underlayment as a double stick install in a home. Of course a double-glue down install makes for a large jump for installation costs. Instead of the usual $3/sf install for a normal glue down (labour costs) this jumps to $5 - $6/sf. The upstairs would benefit from the double stick...the downstairs needs to be evaluated. What is your substrate for the lower level? Is it wood-joist construction (such as over a basement) or is it on a concrete slab. If it is on slab, you will need to have the slab assessed for moisture. If there is ANY suggestion that a glue down should NOT be attempted, I would float both the cork and the floor and be done with it. A floating hardwood floor over top of floating cork (nothing is glued to anything else) is one of the cheaper ways to get cork underneath engineered hardwood. And be aware your material costs go UP when you glue cork underneath a glue down hardwood. The amount of glue you MUST order goes UP! Way up! Look at your budget and decide what you can afford. And if you are on concrete, remember that you MUST spend money on the preparation. A poorly prepared substrate will create a poorly installed floor - regardless of the method of install.