Chipsa, if one climbs stairs from one habitable level to another habitable level there are two (2)habitable floor levels. What we may have here is a real estate/consumer terminology vs. the building code/architectural terminology. In determining floors, it matters not if the second level is under the roof, has pony walls or full height walls. Horizontal or sloped ceilings have nothing to do with the number of floors. The historical Cape Cod simply was an economical approach to a 2-story house, with the second story in the attic, under the existing roof framing! Dormers may or may not have been added for light on the rake side of the roof. But it was clearly a 2-story house with habitable floors on two levels. History is full o examples of buildings with unusual floor definitions. The mansard roof, for example, was a device to add a floor in Parisian houses without having to pay taxes for another floor in the house (it was under the "roof", not a normal floor enclosed by walls as defined by the tax regulations). Today, no one questions that it was a habitable floor despite the fact that it was under the sloping "roof" and illuminated by dormer windows. To determine floors, just count the floors connected by stairs--it's that simple! If there are stairs connecting two habitable levels it's a 2-story building. Conncecting three habitable levels means a 3-story house. The definition of floors really has nothing to do with wall types, wall heights, types of ceilings or types of windows. The only way one would have 1.5 stories is if one floor is only a half level above the next. Sometimes these are called "split levels", but even these most generally have a portion with one habitable floor above another. All of that said, it's really not that important whether one prefers to call something 1.5 stories or 2 stories. It's just important to remember whether one is talking in marketing terms or in terms of the building code and design/construction. Whatever floats one's boat!

Glad you were able to see the pictures davidr! I love the hand pump on the cistern also...in the spring I will be repainting that pump and making it more of a "feature". And, back when we first moved in and had well problems, I was out there hand pumping water...I felt so primitive..lol! The white tile w/ white grout is a temporary measure....it was the most inexpensive way to get a decent countertop in there, and for hubby to do the breakfast bar overhang. It was even less expensive than formica because I picked the 12x12 sheets of the porcelain tile up for .61 cents each (love those clearance deals!!) I needed to do something...the old formica that was on there was lifting up and it was just a mess. Someday down the road we will do a kitchen renovation...we're still in the "make it livable/cosmetic upgrade on a budget/make do for now" stage :) I will take pictures of the second floor of the summer kitchen today...I keep forgetting that I never took pictures up there..thanks for reminding me!

Before you again consult a pro -- architect and/or builder -- do some work yourself. Invest in a large pad of graph paper, preferably the ones that have tiny squares. (Some come with tiny squares within larger squares.). You'll also need a ruler, #2 pencils, (a blue lead pencil would be helpful for designating windows), and a good eraser and a pencil sharpener -- don't count on the pencil erasers being enough. When you're drawing the floor plan of your entire existing home and the final plan, you can use each square as one foot; however, when you're drawing individual rooms or sections, you should have room to use one square as one inch. Your first drawing should be the entire existing structure, with all the existing walls -- rooms and closets -- and all the windows and doors as well as all the plumbing fixtures and appliances -- kitchen and bath. Measure your outside walls from the outside. Make this first drawing without noting any changes wanted. You need to know what you actually have before you go further. If you haven't already, draw all the wall lines double on the floor plan of your existing home -- both sides of the wall -- to represent the actual width and placement of the walls. Your walls are about 5" thick: studs, to which drywall has been added, are a bit less than 4" Pay attention to how the walls meet and how much room they take up. When this drawing showing what you now have is complete, keep it unchanged for future reference. Now you can begin drawing the changes you want to make on other pages of graph paper. While this seems like an unnecessary duplication of effort, I assure you, it isn't. It will help prompt you to clarify in your own mind what you do and do not like about your current residence and it will help teach you how to draw what you do like and want and how to convey that to a pro, be it architect or builder. Trying to tell a pro you want a 12' foot room adjacent to a 12' room in a house that is overall 24' wide WITHOUT accounting for the inches the outside walls take up and/or the inches the wall in between the outside walls takes up can lead to misunderstandings and frustrations -- and wasted time and money. Not understanding where the weight bearing walls are located and how they affect what is and is not practical can also lead to misunderstandings and frustrations -- and wasted time and money. Once you know what you have, you can begin to make some practical decisions as to what you want. Remember some basics: When plumbing drains and supplies must be moved, that costs money. Keeping plumbing near other plumbing and near existing supply and drain pipes can save money. Moving wiring also has economic consequences and moving walls can mean moving wiring. Having bathrooms accessible open to living space rather than opening to a hallway or bedroom is not desirable. When you have redrawn the existing floor plan, number each outside wall and identify the total measurement of each wall, measured from the outside. That's something not readable on your current drawings as the numbers are too light -- at least on my screen. For your second and future drawings, begin by drawing only the outside walls of the home (with doors and windows) -- you already have those for copying. Add in all the interior weight bearing walls. Unless you plan to move bathroom plumbing fixtures, draw all of them in. Now you have the template -- the basic framework for recreating the plan of your home. Note: It's a good idea to use index card stock (thicker than paper) to draw, to scale, the size and shape of all the furnishings you'll be keeping and using in your home. If you're going to be moving appliances and plumbing fixtures, draw them as well. When drawing your stove, it's a good idea to draw a 16" countertop on each side of it. [When drawing the refrigerator, you may want to include a 16" countertop on each side of it as well ... or vertical drawer -- whatever you plan to put in your redecorated home.] Cut out these shapes so you can set them on your drawings as you try different ideas. When you've settled on a plan you like, drawn to scale, then you can post what I have and what I want drawings and/or make another attempt to discuss your vision with a pro. Good luck in your endeavor. .

Thank you, everyone, for the helpful input, we really appreciate it! @joseph_corlett - Interesting. I’m curious to know more about two things: 1. How have you steered your business to get to the point where you can buck the expectation of the three-bid model? I’ve been working towards making high-end wedding/event cakes my core business and customers have a similar expectation of getting free tastings, sketches, style boards, etc. before committing. I’m really interested in how small businesses across different industries develop value so that the equation for the customer shifts from “this is the cheapest” to “I want to pay more because I want the best.” What do you think has been most effective in helping you market to and capture those “I want the best” customers and are there particular ways you have developed your business model and/or your skills to cater to them above and beyond what other people in your industry offer? 2. Given the nature of our specific projects, what would you recommend we look for in a general contractor as we research local professionals beyond just a reputation for quality? We live in the Northern Virginia/Metro D.C. area and there are an overwhelming number of choices. Thanks again for your time! @Jon Alan and @shivece - Thanks very much for your explanations. We were expecting our projects to be pretty straightforward, but it sounds like those expectations are probably unrealistic. Based on your experience/expertise, are there particular aspects of our projects that stand out as the biggest red flags of “oh wow, that could turn out to be so much more complicated and expensive than they imagined?” Also, are there specific things you think would be most helpful for us to investigate before proceeding? @Tim Cleary - Thank you for the advice. In your experience, what types of issues do people tend to most frequently leave out or not consider in their plans? And also, would you mind telling me a little more about how investigative demolition works and the types of structural issues you’ve seen uncovered/we might uncover? Thank you again for your time. Addie