Shaw Epic has a coating called scuff resist, that is within the budget. Much better warranty and you will be hard pressed to scratch it. The samples do not have the scuff resist on it yet. there is demonstrations samples out there. The only solid with it on is Shaw Golden opportunity which is a solid that comes in 2 1/4 3 1/4 and 5 inch widths. Can buy any under 5 bucks a foot and has 20 year warranty. Epic is engineered and the warranty is longer. I can not remember how many years.The aluminum oxide is on top on these products. With dog and kids , it is what you want no doubt.The demonstration between this and Bruce is unbelievable as far as scratching it. It will be only a matter of time until it is introduced by others but currently only Shaw and a few high end Canadian products have the technology. Now Shaws epic series and Golden Opportunity in Solid are the only products with it, but you will find the golden color you desire and yes it is still common.If you can not find it for within your budget...email me and I can find it for you.

@falusiaa I know this thread is a few years old now but did you end up getting your floors reinstalled? We're looking at having this exact same floor installed in our home- Maxwell unfinished engineered white oak in select grade. Have you been happy with it? Did you apply a stain or go with the natural finish? Like you, we are opting for a bit more modern and don't want the knots and character defects that make it a little more rustic. Thanks!

Option #2...because option #1 doesn't look very promising. The 'fibreboard core' is concerning. This isn't a 'wood' floor it would be considered a hybrid. It sits somewhere between laminate (HDF core) and an engineered hardwood (top layer of hardwood sitting on plywood). If you want engineered hardwood then PLEASE purchase hardwood. If you want laminate, then PLEASE purchase laminate. The hybrid of option #1 may not give you want you THINK it will give you. It will give you a laminate with all the issues laminate has with moisture etc. It will give you the DOWN SIDE of both floors. Option #2 is a NICE sounding product. The total board thickness is a snick more than 1/2" (5/8" = 16mm). The wear layer of 4mm is 25% the total thickness. That's a nice ratio. The 4mm means you will get a floor that can be refinished (you need a minimum of 3mm wear layer to get a proper sand/refinish). The thickness of the wear layer also indicates the stability of the product. A THIN wear layer often PEELS/splits/cracks because it doesn't have the hold needed to grab onto a different material. You will notice option #1 has 1.5mm. I am going to tell you a secret which not many people know. The HDF core is VERY dynamic. It is SOOOO dynamic it can/will move up to 1" over 25 linear feet! I can pretty much guarantee you the 1.5mm wear layer is NOT going to allow that type of movement. Which means the GLUE will be the ONLY THING from allowing the HDF from expanding MORE than the rigid top layer. The glue will fail and the thin wood surface will split/check/crack/peel under extreme movement (1" over 25 linear feet is considered extreme BTW). There are few surfaces that can handle that type of movement...hardwood is NOT one of them. Paper photographs sitting over the paper HDF = no problem = traditional laminate. Cork surface over HDF = no problem...cork is very dynamic/stretchy. Pay the up-charge or go with traditional laminate. Traditional laminate in the PRICE RANGE you are looking at for floor is going to outperform the hybrid. And the hybrid cannot go in a kitchen without SERIOUS moisture prevention the seams. The HDF will expand when it comes in contact with moisture. The wood on top will NOT expand in the same way. Remember: floors take the MOST amount of abuse of any finish. There is always something sitting on, touching, walking on the floor at all times...because gravity works. Do not go cheap with flooring. It works out to be far more expensive.

Hmmmmm....Stairs have as many as 15 different code requirements that need to be followed. That includes riser height, depth of tread, railing heights/lengths as well as the size of voids between balusters, etc. As SOON as you change the FINISH on the stairs you MUST bring the stairs up to current code. And THAT can get expensive...depending on how old/bad the stairs are to begin with. The 'stair treads' you are purchasing are just shaped pieces of wood. The STAIRS themselves are the thing that carry 'the code'. Stairs with CARPET can be RECARPETTED without worrying about code. As long as you replace like-with-like you should be OK. And yes, your contractor MUST follow code. How else do they get permits for things? Your contractor *should know this. But MANY do NOT. And I mean FAR TOO MANY do NOT know this. That's why a finishing carpenter is required to deal with stairs...and the contractor's bid *should have included that EXTRA cost...which is why most of them do NOT bring in finishing carpenters. It costs them TOO MUCH MONEY (and homeowners have a tendency to pass out when the see the costs...it just gets ugly). Please post a photo of what you have right now....it will help us help you.