It's a root. This is fairly common for phals that are recovering after losing a lot of roots. A good sign! Edited to add a photo of a phal I rescued that's doing the same thing. The two bottom leaves are in really rough shape, and probably should have fallen off when the others did (I found this in a coworker's trash, totally dehydrated), but shockingly, they never died. This guy finally has a root system that can support the plant again. After three less-than-stellar leaves, it has sprouted a perfect, healthy, normal-sized leaf. Hopefully a spike isn't too far behind. This post was edited by Danielle317 on Thu, Jun 12, 14 at 15:18

And on further review....we're both right. I have personal experience, Your Honour, with both methods, and if it please The Court, can bore you for a fortnight or longer with tales and truths about rooting Pachyphytum, Crassula, Echeveria, Kalanchoe, Thompsonella, Cotyledon, Grahamia, Tylecodon, Pachyphytum and other Crassulaceae - and that's just the Crassulaceae. I could go on with the Apocynaceae and other genera, but I shouldn't take up that much of your time. With few exceptions, if you're trying to root succulents, particularly Crassulaceae, you can take it to the bank that, given warm (20C/70F or higher is better) ambient temps and at least a modicum of sunlight (filtered is better than mostly direct), you will get leaves/cuttings/branches/stems to root faster if you give them an occasional spritz of water. I hope this provides a fuller bloviation on my comments earlier.

The typical method for planting a large area with lavender is to order trays of lavender plugs of the varieties that you are interested in establishing. Lavender seeds are tricky to get going; you have to keep the temperature at 70 degrees or better or they do not germinate (same for Rosemary). Here in the South I do get some volunteer lavender crosses from my English varieties but they ONLY appear in my gravel sidewalk (gravel retains the heat and encourages the sprouting), I've NEVER had a lavender spring up in the flower bed. Also, the larger lavender varieties (which it sounds like that is what you're interested in growing) are sterile hybrids....ie no seeds, all plants are started from cuttings. I started my lavenders by buying a small plant of each variety that I was interested in trying. The next spring I took cuttings with a woody tip and started new plants. To me this was the most economical way to get a large number of plants: get cuttings of a variety that you like and start your own. Keep in mind that you won't have a hillside of lavender in bloom UNTIL your plants are two years old. I am not familiar with your growing zone; but my favorite lavenders for "large spreading bushes" are Provence (silver-blue flowers, sweetest scent), Grosso (purple flowers and a strong camphor-lavender scent), and Provence White (white flowers, sweet lavender scent). Provence - from my front yard Grosso - from my side yard White Provence (I borrowed this image from online, I don't have a good close-up picture of mine) White Provence in my veggie/herb garden, located to left of photo

I've never had luck with keeping any roses alive inside. My best advice is to bury them completely, pot and all, in the ground. I had the best luck with my seedlings that way. I have been using one of those small greenhouses and that worked for a couple of years but these last two were brutal and I lost nearly everything that was inside it. If you decide to bury them make sure you carefully mark the spot so you can find them easily in the spring and don't put a shovel into one of them trying to dig them up. Been there, done that, lol!