I used low profile stainless LED strips from ebay, I think the sellers name was ledpro and he gets them direct. They are the exact same as Environmental sells but a fraction of the cost. The power box is not the same as Environmental sells though. I did research to make sure ledproâÂÂs were to code, they are, read the specs. I found out the hard way not to mention you bought your ledâÂÂs from anyone other than Environmental if you want to buy their power box which is very expensive. Everything shipped pretty fast too. After two and a half years, no problems and all works well.

What you do is put in your LED undercabs in and the driver is inline before the light, than the driver is hooked up to the undercabs. You don't need to add anything other than the original switch that will switch on and off the undercabs. Sometimes the drivers or low voltage transformers (depending on type of lights used) can be placed inside the cabinets. You can also get LED undercabs that have the drivers built in, so no drivers need to be wired in. The new Philips ones are pretty good. Be sure to match the overhead lighting color temperature with your undercabs. You don't want a 4500k overhead light with 3000k undercabs, it looks bad. Mike

On my kitchen cabinets, i had the electricians run LV cables from a central point to each segment of cabinets to be lighted. I had a switched outlet put under the main sink cabinet - and that is where the transformer is plugged in. All the of LV cables (4 segments) run to this same location. The transformer is mounted as high up as I could get it in the back of the cabinet to keep it out of the way. The one mistake my electricians made was they did not leave enough slack at the wall penetrations so that the LV wires could to make it around the entire underside of each segment of cabinets - so I had to splice extra wire on. Not a terrible pain but something easily avoidable. The other little issue was that the wires used for LV lighting is a thick guage - probable a 10 or 8. Twisting all of those plus the transformer power wires and getting a wire nut on is not easy. My electrician recommended that I first solder the ends of the leads to get good current flow evenly across all wires and that would have made it even harder to twist all together. Instead, I purchased a small quick disconnect junction box a Lowe's - removed the quick disconnect plug and some other inerds and just made use of the bus bars inside the box to make my LV connections between the transformer and the LV cables. I had to purchase a second bus bar (they sell these seperately) which snapped right into the box so that I had a + and - side. Made the connexctions very easy. Then hung that box as high as I could get in in the back of the sink cabinet.

If anyone is interested, contrary to my own plan I wound up installing the UC panels under the front of the cabinets instead of the back. I did this everywhere except the PT holder. There, I mounted one just behind it, not all the way to the rear. The choice for me was simple: I could see the panels in the back and not in the front. The PT holder hides the panel to an acceptable degree, and there is no noticeable inconsistency between the PT panel and the next one in front thanks to excellent diffusion. The glare/reflection I worried about is not a factor and I've got a dual wireless dimmer mounted to the wall. Very happy with the results! Thanks again to everyone for your help. Btw, I used "Independence" dimmers and "Designer" panels both by InspiredLED. Peter did a good job, quickly providing plans and suggestions and also fixing a hiccup when a piece arrived defective.