Ficus can be maintained in any pot size you wish. If the roots are filling the current container, and you don't want a larger container (and i wouldn't, too hard to manage in my opinion), then at the next repotting (this should be in the early summer, when it's warm and the plant is growing well), root prune about 1/3 of the roots, work out the old soil from the root ball, and repot with fresh soil into the same container. Water well, then not again until the soil is very dry or new growth resumes, at which point you can resume your normal care. Every time it gets root bound you repeat the process, but go ahead and let it get root bound, ficus don't mind until it gets ~really~ extreme. I would top prune about 1/3 of the foliage at the same time to control post transplant leaf drop, but some people would disagree. That's what works for me though.

The first bend in the trunk is result of a previous pruning. I noticed that when I was looking at the first images. Looks like the trunk bifurcated (split to form a 'Y') at that point and one side of the bifurcation was pruned off. In mid-June, the lowest branch marked in yellow should be cut back to 4 leaves. The long branch moving left/ marked yellow in the image above, and the branch moving right/ marked yellow should also be pruned back to 2 leaves. The leader, above these 2 branches and marked in yellow, should be pruned back to a leaf that points in the direction you want the leader to grow. This is called 'directional pruning'. Example: With the above pruning cut made, the new branch (shows as a leaf only, but it's a new branch) in the axil of the leaf on the right will want to grow to the right. If you wanted the new leader to move left, you would prune lower, to just above the leaf on the left. A cut above the leaf attached to the severed part would give rise to a branch growing away from the grower. Because there are other forces in play, like phototropism (tendency for plants to bend toward the brightest light source), there is no guarantee the branch will grow where you wish, so you might need to encourage the new branch that forms in the axil of the leader's top leaf to grow where YOU want it to. I mentioned this already, but I'll reiterate that your tree will respond to pruning with a much higher degree of enthusiasm if you do the pruning A) while the tree's energy reserves are highest, and B) when the tree's current ability to carry on photosynthesis is peaking, both of which will occur during the summer solstice (21 June). 'Father's Day' is easy to remember. If you intend to repot, do it at the same time you prune. While you could probably remove a little soil to cut through (2 cuts) the kinked root that emerges from and returns too the soil, I would do it at the same time you prune the top. Reason: Pruning the top decreases the volume of foliage the roots must work to keep hydrated. It also makes it less likely that a branch on the same side of the tree where the kinked root is attached will die. When a tree is unable to keep certain parts hydrated, it sheds those parts. Unfortunately, they seem to always choose to shed parts the grower feels are essential to the o/a composition/ shape/ style of the tree. Some trees, like junipers/ yews/ arborvitae/ .... , develop a dedicated relationship between individual roots and branches, such that damage to a particular root will kill a particular branch. Notice the live veins connecting roots to individual branches below: This tree ^^^ has 4 branches and 4 live veins. Other trees lack the direct relationship between particular roots and branches. For the genus Ficus, the relation is moderate, but the lower a branch is (and the shorter the tree is) the greater the likelihood that death of a branch or root will result in the dieback of it's counterpart on the opposite side of the root to shoot connection. When serious about earning a green thumb, the largest step a container gardener can take in that direction will come from understanding how water behaves in container media and what that means to the health of your plants' root systems; this, because issues with root function and/or health cause the most problems by far, with some of them seemingly unrelated to root health. Two examples that lend support to the later contention are infections by disease pathogens and insect predation due to a less than robust metabolic rate, caused by limited root function or poor root health. A healthy plant will remain forever elusive unless and until we are able to maintain root systems in an elevated state of vitality (health). Al

If the new stems are emanating from the roots of the plant, they would be leaves in juvenile phase. If the group of new stems originate from their own set of roots, I would think the new eruption to be a NOID (so far) volunteer. Because of the leaves' venation and what appears to be F. religiosa's vestigial leaf drip tip, along with the leaves being arranged alternate along the stems, and the fact the family Moraceae commonly produce adventitious shoots from roots, I'd bet on it being the former ...... but it should be very easy for you to check to see if they're attached to a mature root. Al

Unless something really bad happened during the repot - like the roots dried out badly, I expect the plant to make a quick recovery, I have a F diversifolia I moved directly into full sun a couple of weeks ago. All it's leaves are going yellow and falling off. I'm not concerned a bit about it. Unless there's something seriously wrong with your medium or how you're watering, your tree should be fine. I'm not saying that to make you feel good - I'm saying that because that's what usually happens more than 9 of 10 times. Also, my diversifolia puts out figs non stop. If yours has figs, remove them. They are a strong energy sink and the tree will expend too much energy on maturing the fruit as opposed to growing new roots. Al