new construction HVAC
vudswa
6 years ago
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tigerdunes
6 years agoRelated Discussions
Feedback for new construction HVAC proposal
Comments (7)Yes, install a separate zoning control for the basement. Now is the time. Yes, I think both furnaces are oversized. Makes me wonder if he sized the furnaces not for the heating BTU capacity but for the 4 ton rated blower that would be needed for the 3 1/2 ton condenser. Yes, based on heat gain calc, a three ton condenser seems to be right size, not 3 1/2 ton as quoted. This should be questioned. Keep in mind, 36 KBTUs=3 tons. I would want to know the design temperatures used both inside temp and outside temp both for winter heating and summer cooling. You want excellent ductwork insulation for attic. That's a long way to blow air. You might consider an 80% furnace for second floor installed in attic. This would eliminate the long distance or perhaps insulate attic where it can take a high efficient condensing furnace without fear of freeze ups. The 80% would be a less expensive option. Discuss the options with dealer/GC. Nothing is easy is it? IMO...See MoreAdvice on new Construction HVAC
Comments (6)If you post your (nearest big town/city) location, it might help to give a better answer. Many (most) 2 stage A/Cs operate at about 70% and 100% (Carier might be 50/100) of rated capacity. If your climate typically goes from cold/cool (no A/C needed) to full blown summer, then a single stage would likely do well. Also, 2 stage units are available in full ton sizes only. The key, is an accurate heat calc and an assessment of your climatic conditions. For example: if your heat gain is 4 tons, and you go from cold to hot (as above), then little to be gained by 2 stage. If say, you're near the ocean, and have a moderate spring (warm periods, but not oppressive), then a 2 stage might be better. The choice of unit should be based on the rated BTUs at each stage (how it matches up with your heat gain. You definitely don't want to be oversized. As far as reusing your HP, how has the unit been stored/transported/etc. With your location, you might benefit from higher SEER unit(s). Good luck. Choose wisely, grasshopper. V...See MoreNew Construction HVAC ?
Comments (9)It's not that hard with the software. Basically, you feed it the square footage of each room, the type of insulation in outside walls and size/type of windows. You tell it what temperatures you want for winter and summer and what the averages are for your region. It sits and thinks and spits out numbers, usually in BTUs for heating and cooling. From that you get your tonnage for cooling and BTUs for heating. BTW: I might be asking for a bit more insulation in the attic if this is new construction. R-38 would be a little light for me. I might be looking for R-50 in Penn....See MoreNew construction HVAC question
Comments (31)Duh. It is not the job of a thermostat to sense the temperature 80 ft away. A thermostat should accurately sense the temperature in the area in which it is located. It is the job of the HVAC designer to specify the location of each thermostat so the measured temperature is representative of the environment it controls. So in other words when the area that is 80 ft away and too hot, you can then say duh to the customer / prospective homeowner? You'd be surprised how many times people have requested me to physically move a thermostat not realizing that simply moving it will create "NEW" problems. (colder in other areas relative to the new area it was place in.) IE: a solution is one that doesn't create new problems. Otherwise not a solution. Oh let's add sensors to various rooms... same difference. It's going to keep pumping air and try to magically create comfort. There's every kind of garbage contraption you can imagine. I've had to stop people more than once, maybe more than a thousand times from making a dumb mistake. Some listen, some think they know everything even when what I do isn't what they do. I often tell prospective customers that if they think they know more than me... they don't need me. I am not a third wheel that is going to get dictated to. Been doing this for over 26 years. Had more than my fair share of disagreements with engineers, while some actually listen to what I say. Your climate in Virginia entirely different... different climate different concerns. Your cooling season is short. Mine is nearly always 10 months long, sometimes longer. I've heard every excuse in the book when it comes to builders. I can't say they've ever used DUH as an excuse. The design sheet doesn't know what that room or rooms 80 ft away is going to be used for. Does the thermostat know? (I'm in the home when people are actually living in it.) PS: humidity control... real humidity control is another separate system that is best tied to a humidistat. That system is in addition to your air conditioner, requires maintenance and up keep, repairs and eventual replacement. More money. More electrical cost on the light bill. It's a separate system tied to the HVAC system. An air conditioner does not "control" humidity. Remember I said HVAC market was built on problems. In my market it's not just what humidity is created in the house, it's also humidity that makes it into the house in a humid climate. A very humid climate (Katy, Texas) Technology has made better inroads into helping with humidity via Inverter AC's and the ability to modulate up and down. But these systems run off temperature, not humidity. I'm sure you're well aware that you can have high humidity at lower temps. But these comments that I make aren't for you wise guy... They are for the people who read these threads months, sometimes years later that are searching for someone like me. I know my lane, now you know yours. Stay in it....See Moremike_home
6 years agoAustin Air Companie
6 years agosktn77a
6 years agoUser
6 years agolast modified: 6 years agoAustin Air Companie
6 years agoFaith Heating & Cooling Chicago
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6 years agoionized_gw
6 years agoAmir Fish
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