Hi NC1924, I couldn't respond to your email because you told Gardenweb not to expose your email address. So I'm responding here. I ended up with a mix of Andersen 100, 200, and 400 series, plus one Marvin Ultimate window. The Andersen stuff is nice for what it is. It looks nice and operates almost flawlessly. I haven't seen the Milgard clad in person, because the two sources I was considering (Bruce Bauer lumber in Mountain View and Direct Buy) didn't have any on display. After seeing the one Marvin window I put in my kitchen, plus all the ones on display on Bauer, I would definitely say: get the Marvin if you can afford it. Their windows are extremely well made and look beautiful. I'm very, very happy with the big, cherry awning window in my kitchen. I wish I had sprung for Marvin for the rest of the windows in my great room / kitchen and master bedroom. In hindsight I could have afforded it; my employer keeps throwing more money at me. They would have looked nice all in cherry, and my plans to stain the Andersen windows to match didn't work out. (More on that below.) I know nothing about window economics, but I do do a bit of woodworking. Mahogany is very expensive wood and is also harder and tougher to work than pine or fir. A price delta of 2x doesn't surprise me at all. Finally, go look at them in person somewhere, don't just use the internet and take people's word for things. With windows, the fit and finish really matters and you can't get a feel for that on the net. One thing to check when you look at them is how much of the unit is wood. I ordered some Andersen 200 series windows and doors in stain-grade pine. The wood is nice, but at ordering time I didn't notice that the frame and tracks are plastic composite. The white frame would have contrasted too much with the cherry-stained wood I had planned, so I ended up painting the wooden parts white. Laura

You need to chose the refinisher then let them choose the wood they like working with. Pine is hard to beat for matching existing wood on remodels.

Kym, The "Sound Control Lami" is laminated glass, which is considered the best for sound proofing. But I did a quick search on google and came across this statement: " Soundproof glass won’t do you much good if your windows have gaps or cracks between the seals. An airtight install, complete with adequate weatherstripping, creates a barrier to keep out unwanted noise. Additionally, insulated vinyl frames, which are filled with foam, also block outside sound and help soundproof your window frames. Also look for windows that have a nonmetal window spacer system. What does that mean? The window space is the piece that keeps the two panes separated. In a nonmetal spacer system, this part is composed of silicone rubber covered with sealant. That means it has better insulating properties than its metal counterparts. Essentially, anything you can do to better seal and insulate your home also improves its sound performance. So as a bonus, when you soundproof your home, you’ll also get better overall energy efficiency for windows and lower utility bills as well. " So this could be the problem. The glass might be fine, but maybe the seals (or frame) leak more than your Andersens did, which is why you're noticing more noise. Kolbe should have a spec for air infiltration for the windows you ordered. Might be worth checking that out. Good luck with it all. https://thewindowdog.com/air-infiltration-air-leakage-rating-2/

That is not correct unless I am missing something. First of all, they are available only on the casements with an operator (not push out). The shade and screen (behind it) are in one unit that sits in the same slot that houses a screen only on the interior. I would do a couple of things: use the dealer locator on the website and find a dealer in your area that has them on display. Have in hand the serial number from the glass (usually upper right corner from interior). It should be a ten digit number beginning with a letter and then 16..., 17...,18.. (the year of manufacture). Have a magnifying glass and a step stool and the easiest thing to do is to read to someone else to transcribe and then have them read it back. This will give Marvin "all" the information on your window(s) and a shade can be ordered. You will need a new screen if you now have one as it is a different size. The interior wood of the shade will match your window and there are fifteen different fabric choices (including some blackout) to choose from. These are all Hunter-Douglas quality fabrics. The shades are not inexpensive but competitive with after market choices without some of their drawbacks like you are experiencing. Good luck and let us know if this works.