suburbanrancher, it's advised that the best time to repot (since, as you say Meyers seem to always be in some state of flowering) is during a dormant period just following fruit set and just before the next flush of leaves. This usually corresponds to early summer (around June or thereabouts). jkom, what an interesting question you ask about in-ground vs pot ripening times for IMLs. I actually have 3 Meyers in the ground and one that's potted, and I had every intention of (taking it a step further and) making this a full-time houseplant. After all, I'm able to successfully flower both a Cattleya orchid and a plumeria (no longer alive) at an East/Southwest facing window so I'd hoped to successfully fruit the Meyer at this location. But I've chickened out (and my potted Meyer is now an all-outdoor plant), as nobody's seemed to have done 100% indoor cultivation of a Meyer and gotten it to fruit - if anyone has evidence otherwise, I'd love to know! Maybe I should just do the experiment to determine the answer for myself...and also answer your fruit-timing question. Tim

Dirt and sand don't belong in containers and will just make the plant suffer. Use a potting mix with pine bark or sphagnum peat moss as the primary ingredient and repot every year or two. There are longer lasting mixes, but I just don't know what you have available in India and don't want to get started on that right now. Losing fruit from transplanting is pretty normal. If you just pick up the root ball and plunk it into a larger pot and fill around it you likely won't lose fruit, but if you remove the dirt from the roots (you should) and then place it into a decent growing medium you will see some shock and the fruit may well abort. Just how it goes.

I see you also asked on the plumeria forum so you'll get some answers from the experts, but meanwhile I'll tell you what I do. I don't have room in the house or the green house for potted plumerias so I uproot them, tie a plastic grocery bag around the root ball, and let them lean again the darkest wall in the overwintering/green house. I might give the root ball a little moisture once or twice. They loose all their leaves, but that's okay. They leaf out again within a few weeks. Some folks remove the leaves which is the probably the better way. You don't even have to use the plastic bag. You can bare root them and lay them on their side for the winter. I did that for years. Believe it or not they live, grow and bloom when repotted in the spring.

The requirements of a very acidic soil condition to successfully grow blueberries is overstated. While they certainly need an acidic soil, they do NOT require one with an acidity range as low as 5.0. The PNW is home to a very large commercial blueberry industry as well as being the location of the largest wholesale grower of blueberries in the world. We have naturally acidic soils but not overly so - typically around 5.5 to 6.5. Blueberries grow beautifully here without adding any additional acidifiers - robust growth, healthy flowering and fruiting and seldom any signs of chlorosis common to less than satisfactorily acidic soils. In point of fact, the growing guide published by this wholesale grower (who ships internationally as well as across the US) doesn't even address specific soil pH requirements..........only to say that an acidic soil is necessary. Period. I grow blueberries in containers myself and also use an acid planting mix - like the potting soils recommended for rhododendrons and azaleas - and they grow perfectly well with this type of medium. They also tolerate a lot wetter conditions than many believe. My summer job all through high school was working at a local blueberry farm that was planted on a bog next to a slough. The soil was perpetually wet, even in our long summer dry periods. The bushes thrived. This farm is still there, now a community run park and a designated historical landmark and still has many of its original bushes, now approaching 70 years old!!