hmm - the trunk is connected at the very base. Where is the crotch angle? do you mean between the two main trunks? Is it mainly an aesthetic problem?

They aren't circling roots but cords around the BB...

Eastern Redbuds have a tendency to either be multi-trunked or to branch out starting at very low levels. The split might actually be one trunk that split at the base into two stems almost immediately. Rhizo is likely mentioning the crotch angles because of how they make the tree prone to breaking with older age. The crotch angles are everywhere where a sub-branch splits off from its main branch. If they are more of a V shape, they are weaker, if they are more of a U shape, they are stronger. But overall, eastern redbud has weak wood. With you being in the northern zone, this can bring challenges when ice accumulates on the branches in winter. Eventually it could weigh down a branch enough that it breaks at a V crotch angle.

The tree's life expectancy is about 30 years, and one stem versus multi stem is sometimes a matter of taste, but sometimes can cause problems too if it grows in on itself too much, maybe causing moisture to collect. I personally chose a redbud with one stem, and Japanese Maples with one stem, but I have seen several Multi-stemmed specimens of each shaped up very nicely. It is a very pretty specimen, but I would prune the branches to encourage the main leaders to grow “up" more than “out" and back toward the center of the tree's shape. (Realizing that the species seems to tend to a rounder shape anyways.) The more it grows out and out, the more it will be prone to breaking because its branch weight will be further and further out.

This second photo you shared has a LOT of base stems. I wouldn't be too worried about the branches up top in choosing a potential redbud, those can always be pruned and managed (so long as you can see an overall structure that seems like it would develop well), but the base structure you are more or less “stuck" with. This second one concerns me because it looks like the multiple stems may create pockets where water can collect and over time cause rot. I have read that side branches of a redbude should never be thicker than the main branch from which it extends, as that will cause problems over time.

My county has a lot of “median plantings" on our four lane roads, and they use redbuds in many of them. I can take some photos this weekend to show you some “mature" (maybe 15-20 year old) specimens to show you how their shape has evolved, and in some cases, where rot and breakdown is already happening. If you'd like to see that, that is.

I have always been told to wait a year or two to prune anything, as they need all the leaves to create the energy to grow their root systems. Plus, it gives you time to think about how you might want to prune it. I have also been told to prune in dormancy/winter, and for larger prunes, to prune “down" section by section over a few winters.

I actually really like your first tree, and would think that somehow the branches could be worked with to maybe force the “side branches" to become more of the main branches.

Depends on your plan for it. If you want to walk under it alot go single stem and limb it up. If it is out in the middle of the yard I might prefer a shorter multi stemmed tree to keep the flowers down low.

My neighbor and I have ALOT of redbuds. Every one is unique. In St Louis they are not the longest lived tree but I will say branches generally die rather than break. Maybe your ice load will cause the opposite.

Redbuds grow so fast that unless you're after a particular cultivar, I'd buy the smallest one I could find. A small tree will establish so much faster than the ones you show that in 5 years or less it will have outgrown those which will spend their first 3-4 years trying to establish root systems.

As a former tree and shrub grower and nursery owner, I suggest that the very best time to make structural corrections to woody plants is when they are very young. An expert can, with a very few cuts, turn a young tree destined for problems into one that is more likely to develop into a strong specimen with a balanced infrastructure.

The two redbuds pictured above look to me like they have been either dug from the wild or field grown with absolutely no effort on the part of the grower. I would consider them culls, personally. Of the two, I would choose the second tree and do a small amount of structural pruning every year.

neither tree is worth the money you will presumably pay .. for the size ...

find one at 1/2 to 1/3 the size ... that is perfect ...

where are you ... i must have missed that info .. z5 is half the US ...

ken

I also Lacy's point, redbuds grow amazingly fast here. They make an amazing 0 to 30 foot run for how tall they do not get.

So, paying extra for a troubling large transplant is not necessary.

I personally like the second tree better, but i think people are overestimating the problems that can occur. If you like one of the trees just plant it as it. Although i like single stem specimens. And you can get them in 3 gallon sizes at Lowe's or Home Depot for a lot less than at a nursery. By the way, how much is the nursery asking for those?

The other issue with redbuds is the fancy cultivars are less cold hardy. If that is a wild specimen that was dug up that would be a good thing. That might be better off getting specimens from Native Plant societies that use a local seed source.

I say that it will look beautiful in a few years, but may need some of the lower branching removed for aesthetic reasons, but nothing that cannot be done with bypass pruners.

I wouldn't worry much about crotch angles & all that on redbuds. They typically grow that way & prb'ly won't live long enough to be an issue anyway. If there is a girdling root issue, tho, that would need to be addressed, or if too difficult, get another tree.