Wow! A rare case where the aesthetics part of the performance-aesthetics-economy: pick-any-two limitation is not a factor in hood selection. But first, given a sealed household, I would strongly recommend obtaining a furnace kit to use outside air. This will avoid the possibility of the MUA system not working perfectly and the hood causing negative house pressure and hence backdrafting of the combustion appliance. I know that such devices exist for Beckett burners, and would guess that there are adapters for other burners. As the OP correctly notes, a 200 cfm ERV is not going to cope with a 1200 cfm vent hood. (Actually, what would happen with a sealed house is that at full power, the hood would pull the cfm the ERV would let through into the now minus a couple of inches w.c. house pressure.) So MUA is essential, and in the mid-Atlantic region would be pretty uncomfortable in winter if unheated. Depending on one's tolerance for heat and humidity, cooling in summer might be optional or not. We are starting to get into the realm where performance-economy, pick any two is applicable. MUA can be roughly characterized as passive or active. By passive is meant no fan in the circuit. Active uses a booster fan to keep the house pressure stable. No-fan only works for simple ducting with a vent hood air flow controlled damper. (A recent post here provided some sources for these.) If a filter is used at 1200 cfm (or whatever flow actually could be pulled with all the doors and windows open, then the house pressure will drop. One can see on websites selling filter packs that the pressure drop at such flow rates is too large for combustion appliance safety, which require negative pressures not be greater than 0.03 to 0.06 inches depending on appliance type. Active is needed to overcome the filter restriction. It may be needed to overcome heating heat exchanger restriction and/or air conditioning heat exchanger (expander) restriction. The difficulty with active is balancing the MUA air flow rate against the variable hood flow rate such that the house pressure is near zero. This usually requires a control system of some sort, and can be a "project." What to do? What to do? Only one free-of-processing-controllers active MUA has occurred to me. In the simplest embodiment, the hood control is connected to two parallel wired identical fans, one in the hood exhaust path and one in the MUA path. Then the two will (try to) operate at nearly the same flow rate at every control setting, and one only needs to adjust the MUA duct restriction until it matches that of the hood path. More exactly, adjust the MUA path so that house pressure falls very little as the hood is turned on. Note that this doesn't account for bathroom fans, fireplaces, or other exhaust flows not due to the hood. In such cases, PID control of the MUA fan would be needed. In my case, due to a 1500 cfm hood, 1000 cfm over-oven vent, fireplace, and three bathroom fan household, I am building an active MUA that will use an axial blower in the 2000 cfm regime. It has to overcome the pressure loss of its intake vent, its filter, and its heat exchanger (which is hot water pumped from my oil burner). Control is via a Fuji PID controller operating from a BAPF differential pressure sensor. The motor power control is not yet selected, and a lot of sheet metal action is still needed, along with further attic revisions that I seem to have trouble getting to at the needed rate. I recommend the OP and/or his HVAC person read the "Kitchen Ventilation Systems Application & Design Guide" that may be found at Greenheck's web site. It periodically moves around, URL-wise, so a Google search by name may be fastest. Greenheck or one of its competitors may be able to provide what you need for considerably less agony than a do-it-yourself HVAC project would. kas

I downloaded your pic and opened it in Paint (actually that's what I did the first time I helped with a layout--now I just copy the pic/drawing and paste it into a Paint shortcut I keep on my desktop). It's easy to use the 'select' function to capture and move boxes. The boxes I drew are estimated to be the correct size. So, only one DW in the kitchen is good news--I misunderstood your post on the other thread, about adding a second DW to the main kitchen. You can easily put the trash/recycle base to the right of the sink, in the main prep area. Are the trash and recycle bins attached to the doors, to swing out with them? If so, I would retrofit pull-outs, and attach the doors to the slider guides, which would make it much easier to use the pull-out from the sink side. If the main prep space will be on the island, I'd leave the trash there, and put the 47.5" base to the right of the clean-up sink. If you put a 12" cabinet in each corner with 3" filler, you'll have symmetry within .5" on the sink wall. If you use a cabinet with only a full height door (no top drawer), you might be able to omit the filler, and increase the new 12" cabinets to 15". Drawers and/or pull-outs would definitely need filler to open past the hardware or oven door handle on the perpendicular runs. Since your sink base is 45", have you considered the Kohler Stages 45, or a similar sink? At any rate I'd use at least a 33" sink (which I have, and love--it hides lots of dirty dishes). 36" seems to be a popular size, too. I forgot to mention in the previous posts that I made the island less deep, and increased the width of the work aisle. The island is 42" deep, which includes the standard 24" deep bases, cover panel, 16" seating overhang, and front counter overhang. Also, the pull-out I put on the end of the island could instead be a bookcase for cookbooks.

I was just at Ikea today looking at kitchen cabinets with the intention of buying them for my kitchen. i could not help but notice a strong odor in every cabinet that I opened In the store. i believe the smell is emanating from the sides of the cabinet boxes which are constructed of particle board and glue and resin. The smell escapes from the holes drilled in the sides. I think the smell will continue to out gas for years. ikea is supposedly CARB2 and EPA compliant , I must say, it gives me pause. and it is for this reason that I won’t buy Ikea cabinets. i don’t want to pay thousands of dollars to introduce a chemical smell into my house.

Personally, I would avoid any and all extra functions on a range, with maybe an exception for convection. All of that is just more to go wrong. Better to have a separate air fryer if you like that. You can always replace your countertop air fryer, or just relegate it to the back closet once you grow tired of the novelty. I would look for solid quality and leave the novelty behind. I looked at new ranges not too long ago and saw some that had so many extra functions and preset controls. One feature that I love about some ranges is that there is an option of having two ovens, a full size and a smaller one. The one that I have worn out almost completely has a small oven and I use that 90% of the time. When we lived in England some decades ago, we had a range that had a pull down broiler unit built into an upper level of it. That was so wonderfully useful. Instead of a broiler inside of it, the broiler was open and just folded up when not in use. It worked well as a broiler and as a toaster. I currently use my small upper oven broiler as our toaster. I have never seen one here in the US like that. Since you asked for advice, my advice is to avoid the novelty and pay for solid quality and materials. It is hard to avoid novelty anymore. I find that novelty is built into so many things nowadays, and that novelty is so easily outdated. I especially am no a fan of preset functions that are designed to cook something specific, such as a pizza setting or one for a meat load, etc. I dont want computer controls on my range, either. I dont want to be able to communicate with it from afar. Had some friends who had a range that supposedly cleaned itself with steam. The problem with it was that the steam also damaged the wiring and controls. It was. JennAir. Luckily it belonged to a guy who is a literal rocket scientist, for real. He was able to make some modifications to it. Now they have just an good solid quality range with no froo froos. Keep it simple and honest is its integrity and it will have much more lasting value