If you use a rectified porcelain, you can use the same kind of thin joint as with natural stone. Additionally (I just learned this, this morning at a jobsite I was called to to take a look at for other reasons), polished rectified porcelain will also be much more slip resistant than natural stone. (I found out because I was called to look into other problems at a school theater lobby that was just built this past summer, and tiled with a high polished rectified porcelain which, according to the architect's information, met the ADA code for coefficient of friction (slip resistance). Also, where is that term "butt jointed" from if this cannot be done with tile? There are certain wall tiles that are made with lugs on their sides that when butted together, will give a uniform joint throughout the wall. (Coincidentally, the same size joint-- 1/16") One other thing to say about granite. I've both had a granite front entry myself, as well as installing the one in the pic below in the home of a showroom owner I used to do alot of work for, and neither of us ever had problems with people slipping on them: Also, if you're really worried about the slippage factor and still want granite, check into flame honed. It's more of a rustic finish, but still a beautiful floor.

Hi, amiwhere. I also selected IPE to build my own deck. Absolutely no regrets now after about 6 months. (I built that one and only one deck... IPE Deck link below. It doesn't make me an expert like the contractors that build many decks and see many failures.) I used Anchorseal to avoid checking as is typically recommended. I put it on immediately after each cut. I was concerned about how it made the ends dark. Ironically, the sealer (Woodrich) didn't stain the ends as much. Now they are lighter. It looks ok and will likely be even less noticeable after the next staining. I just checked for checking. There is none at all. I didn't mind paying for the IPE but the idea of drilling into the face of it, at the price, seemed to be a sin. They say that plugs look "clean". I see IPE damaged with many spots... http://blog.eastteak.com/index.php/2009/05/qa-i-want-to-screw-and-plug-my-ipe-deck-what-do-i-need-to-know/ I had planned to fix problem spots with screws through the face but ended up avoiding that as well. I used Deckmaster underfasteners for overhangs such as the front of each step. It worked well but was very hard work. I had to use a rachet many times... not easy. The screws were able to screw into the IPE on their own because they are thick enough. However, IPE is so dense that the wood has nowhere to go. It cracks (mostly heard cracks, didn't see cracks) to make room for the screws. So I predrilled pilot holes. The screws were then able to drive through the fastener and IPE to poke up through the face. It takes some patience to drive them in just enough. I fastened most of the decking with Tigerclaw TC-Gs after using a router to cut groves for them. Some comment that they will fail over time. I don't have any failures to know what they are talking about yet. It apparently hasn't been long enough for mine to fail. I also don't understand exactly how the TC-Gs are suppose to fail. If the screws loosen up over time then they would likely be supplied with longer screws. Tigerclaw TC-Gs seem to be developed more recent then other clip designs. They seem to be thicker, SS, etc. Also, I was encouraged by how Timbertech endorsed them by starting to sell them as their Consealoc brand. TC-Gs automatically create a 3/16'' gap. I learned to like that given that moist air needs to escape out from under the boards to avoid cupping. The 3/16'' was apparently very consistent because I planned using that dimension and reality worked out to be the same. Something doesn't seem right about your comment of dirt and sand building up in the cracks so that weeds grow up. Are the boards so low to the ground that rain doesn't wash dirt away from the boards? IPE will cup if there isn't enough airflow under the boards. And, sand and dirt should be able to easily wash away to that space under the boards. Here is a link that might be useful: IPE Deck

How is it still a mess after all that sanding TWP is the best finish for outdoor projects I have found yet of course it takes a little more than the basic dump truck driver to put it on. Do not use a belt sander, a 5'' orbital with 80 grit pads works well, This guy sells some good stuff far as prep goes>> www.restoreadeck.comYou exist to see Jeff Gordon win his 5th Nascar Championship. John

maybe i wasn't totally clear with my question. maybe i should have said "bevel" rather than "miter". i'm talking about the butt joint cut illustrated in this nice image from joe: do folks typically bevel the joints at an angle like that or cut them straight up and down? and do i really need to leave a gap? i was under the impression that expansion/contraction occurred mostly across the grain rather than along the length of the board.