You have done your homework well. Of course there is no maintance free decking but I know what you ment.

South American lumber is good for any weather its exposed to ipe being one of them.It is delivered air dried sometimes it shrinks in width depending on expousure so if you put in say a 1/4'' gap you might not be happy with the results. Just keep it clean with compresed air or water thru a garden sprayer.

Even ground contact mcq pt lumber is not made for ground contact. Lets not even get into why we have to use this stuff. I retreat the frame with copper naphthenate bfore the decking goes on.

Sounds like screwing / pluging would work for you. I use a forstner bit,predrill into the ipe not past it into the frame, tapered plugs installed with tightbond 111,sand with an orbital / 80 grit. This might sound like a lot of work but really its a lot less than using the L metal and working upside down by a long shot same with the clips and its a sure thing.

My supplier East Teak sells ipe plugs or you could make your own but that maney would be a pain. J.

Hi, amiwhere. I also selected IPE to build my own deck. Absolutely no regrets now after about 6 months. (I built that one and only one deck... IPE Deck link below. It doesn't make me an expert like the contractors that build many decks and see many failures.)

I used Anchorseal to avoid checking as is typically recommended. I put it on immediately after each cut. I was concerned about how it made the ends dark. Ironically, the sealer (Woodrich) didn't stain the ends as much. Now they are lighter. It looks ok and will likely be even less noticeable after the next staining. I just checked for checking. There is none at all.

I didn't mind paying for the IPE but the idea of drilling into the face of it, at the price, seemed to be a sin. They say that plugs look "clean". I see IPE damaged with many spots... http://blog.eastteak.com/index.php/2009/05/qa-i-want-to-screw-and-plug-my-ipe-deck-what-do-i-need-to-know/

I had planned to fix problem spots with screws through the face but ended up avoiding that as well.

I used Deckmaster underfasteners for overhangs such as the front of each step. It worked well but was very hard work. I had to use a rachet many times... not easy. The screws were able to screw into the IPE on their own because they are thick enough. However, IPE is so dense that the wood has nowhere to go. It cracks (mostly heard cracks, didn't see cracks) to make room for the screws. So I predrilled pilot holes. The screws were then able to drive through the fastener and IPE to poke up through the face. It takes some patience to drive them in just enough.

I fastened most of the decking with Tigerclaw TC-Gs after using a router to cut groves for them. Some comment that they will fail over time. I don't have any failures to know what they are talking about yet. It apparently hasn't been long enough for mine to fail. I also don't understand exactly how the TC-Gs are suppose to fail. If the screws loosen up over time then they would likely be supplied with longer screws.

Tigerclaw TC-Gs seem to be developed more recent then other clip designs. They seem to be thicker, SS, etc. Also, I was encouraged by how Timbertech endorsed them by starting to sell them as their Consealoc brand.

TC-Gs automatically create a 3/16'' gap. I learned to like that given that moist air needs to escape out from under the boards to avoid cupping. The 3/16'' was apparently very consistent because I planned using that dimension and reality worked out to be the same.

Something doesn't seem right about your comment of dirt and sand building up in the cracks so that weeds grow up. Are the boards so low to the ground that rain doesn't wash dirt away from the boards? IPE will cup if there isn't enough airflow under the boards. And, sand and dirt should be able to easily wash away to that space under the boards.

Here is a link that might be useful: IPE Deck

If I was ever going to use the clips on ipe those would be the ones.

Again very nice work. J.

So many folks like the gaps tight, because it looks better, but in the long run I think a little wider gap is better. We all know dirt builds up in the gaps & if you have dogs around or plants it just gets worse. Who wants to be cleaning out the gaps in their deck? Not me anyway, there's better things to be doing with time off work.

I like your choice in running the decking perpendicular to the house to avoid having butt joints. Most folks don't like the way it looks cause almost everytime I run that option by it gets nixed. Depending on the size & shape of deck you could run the boards the opposite way on the ends to get a different look too.

For those that decide to use clips, get a biscuit jointer for making the grooves. It works way better than a router & you won't have to keep buying all those bits that break.

I haven't used those tigerclaw clips yet but, I do think they'd work. The only clip I've used on ipe decks is the extreme ipe clip. The first one is a little more than a year old & no problems so far, fingers are still crossed tho.

You should be using treated lumber for your joist, not cedar.