I have a large number of fragrant red HTs, and am always looking for a better one. I grow, or have grown, many of the ones mentioned above, and many others. I have no problem with the blueing of all of the classic ultra-fragrant red HTs, and they remain my faves. I had Olympiad for almost 10 years, very nice rose but ditched it a couple of years ago b/c its blooms were small-ish and non-fragrant. I loved it when it was one of the first seven roses I grew way back in the day. I bought two Firefighters when it was first offered at Edmunds (with very high hopes for it based on what they told me), but gave both away after 2-3 years... I'm always wistful when Hoov posts about her great Firefighter. I have given away a number of other reds. Having said that, and based on your four potentials above and your looking for a true red HT, I'd say Ingrid Bergman is a great choice. Always perfect, big blooms, medium fragrant, repeats extremely well. Veterans' Honor is also really great and medium fragrant, but for me it tends to weak necks. Someone must know how to grow it right without those weak necks, b/c it's a popular exhibition rose. I haven't figured that one out yet. I've grown it grafted, and now own-root, and it's exactly the same. One rose no one has mentioned is Erotika, an ultra-fragrant pretty much clear red rose. It's not quite as damasky as the usual suspects, but it is kind of a blend of sweet rose and damask, still very strong. I've been thinking for the past couple of years that Erotika might actually be the perfect compromise rose for someone looking for true red and ultra-fragrant. Sorry so long, but I could write a book about my quest for fragrant reds :-D Susan

Well, I made the purchase... I went out to Tyler this weekend, to go to the Rose Gardens, go to a plant sale and swing by a few nurseries. My plan was to go to Chamblees and pick up Nacogdoches, Jefferson Rose or Marie Pavie at Chamblees. So I get there and look at Marie Pavie and decide I really need a yellow, because the pink buds are, well, pink, and the rose in front of the empty spot is pink. So next I look at the Jefferson Rose, but the blooms have all faded to white and are small. Plus I don't detect much smell. So, on to Nacodoches I go, but OH NO, they are out of it and won't have any in until the fall. I was told the article in Southern Living (about easy roses) mentioning Nacogdoches Rose caused a rush on them and Chamblees is completely out. Boohoo! I asked her for a recommendation and she recommended Julia Child. I told the lady that I really preferred OGRs and proven hardy roses and wanted an easy no spray, petite, bushy rose. She said Julia Child fit my requirements and that the nursery manager thinks Julia Child is actually better than Nacogdoches and is the best yellow rose. I was already drawn to Julia Child after seeing beautiful specimans at Ft Worth Botanical gardens a few weeks ago and then at the Rose Gardens there in Tyler earlier that day. I went for it! So I splurged on the 3 gallon for $18.99 (same or less than 2 gallons anywhere in Dallas) and she was planted yesterday. The one I picked still has a few buds so it will be nice to see it bloom in my garden.

If your soil is acidic you should be able to grow Azaleas and Rhodos, they will do great in partial shade. Just remember they do not give year round color, but the show that they put on for a few weeks are worth having them. The trick would be to plant a number of them with different flowering times then you would have a couple of months of color. The PGM's are very hardy and are the first to bloom. I also have many of the Lightes series azaleas. Before you buy any check to see what the lowest temperatures are that they will tolerate. You will find many available. This time of year, if there are any in your area, would be a great time to get deals on them. I have more than 100 rhodos and azaleas and the colors with the hostas are fantastic. I have a red one next to Hosta Patriot and I just stand and stare at them. Maybe you could try clematis, in some sun, with different flowerings times as well. Also my magnolias and dogwoods are beautiful. To find out more about rhodos and azaleas check out Capt Dick Steel, Bayport, N.S. on the internet. His is a very interesting story and in person a very informative man to talk to. He could convince anyone to try rhodos and magnolias. He is now approx 95 years old. Remember I live in Nova Scotia, very cold and sometimes snowy winters. By the way I have sumacs as well, sumacs everywhere. Want some. I planted two, wish I hadn't, spreading like crazy. Betty

Mat, yeah I have 2018 and 2019 to write up. I have all my notes. Just have to find time. I checked out Pepiniere casse noisette website. They do not list their rootstocks anywhere that I can find. What rootstocks are your pears, peaches, apricots on? Honestly, a lot of what they are selling, at least in apricots, peach, nectarines seem to me to be VERY marginal for their climate. In many case they mention useful for growing in pots but if that is the case how are they propagating for sale? I don't want to disparage them without information but my impression is they might be reselling . You absolutely need to be buying based upon root-stock. For apples I am not only buying on Bud118 as it has best cold hardiness and is vigorus for our short seasons - Bud9 is just too slow. Train and prune to keep the size you want. Pears on OHxF87 or 97 and prune/train. I have found PAW-PAWs to be marginal in 4b - still 3' tall after 5+ years. Blueberries don't like my soil so Haskasps and Currants are much better. You have better options than Indigo Gem, Aurora is good though. Pink Lemonade is like a zone 5/6 plant, I see little chance of it surviving. Both Whiffletree and vigneschezsoi are good options. Be aware that a 1-2 year old bare root grape vine will bear fruit 1-2 years faster than the same year rooted cuttings you will get from vigneschezsoi. If you are only buying a couple might want to spend a couple extra $$ to get fruit a whole year or 2 earlier. Somerset and Trolhaugen are good. Had a couple Brianna this year, not enough to really say. Get Bluebell as well. I suggest 10-15' between vines. Can go closer but I am of the hack back 90% every year and then let grow. Trollhaugen can put out 12-15' of growth in 1 year alone - plant closer and you have to keep on top of canopy thinning to avoid overgrowth. Apples and pears will benefit from bagging with ziplocs. Grapes I bag with Organza bags when starting to turn color. So far I am loosing 99% of stone fruit (plums) to plum curlico and the rest to birds/racoons (can't bag plums - they rot). All peaches die. Trying apricots but no fruit yet. Don't get too caught up on types of fruit. Buy something disease resistant on a hardy, vigorus rootstock then topwork as you get enough branch structure. You will then be able to test fruit to see what you like or not within 3 years of grafting. My crabapple is now up to 65+ different apples grafted to it.