@derauf Permanent Press is the cycle that doesn't run Eco Active recirculation. Did you remove and examine the diverter for a broken linkage, or a foreign object jamming it from physically shifting modes? Assuming your pump runs and the diverter is not broken or jammed, a cause of continuous recirculation (failure to drain) is a bad motor controller board that continuously powers the diverter, per the previous replies to Greg Neault in this thread. Using Permanent Press won't circumvent that problem because the board is bad and powers the diverter at all times regardless of the selected cycle. A possible work-around is via disconnecting the diverter wires. Permanent Press is the only cycle that would work that way. The motor board would run the pump during recirculation periods on the other cycles which would drain the water even if the diverter is disconnected.

A bit interesting that the fault triggers at the point of spin and not earlier during agitation. Agitation of course involves the same drive motor running in stepping-control motion. Fault 243 (11110011) - Stepper Test Failure Rotor Position Sensor (RPS) Fault. The Motor Control Module has attempted a motor step test and found the motor has not stepped to the correct position. Source: Wiring Action: Check the RPS harness for continuity and that the connectors are are not loosened from the RPS and/or Motor Control Module. Source: Rotor Position Sensor Action: Check the RPS with an RPS tester [Note: This is an F&P service tool. There is no other way to directly test the RPS. DO NOT attempt a resistance reading on it with a volt/ohm meter]. Fit a new RPS if found faulty. [Note: A replacement RPS is not too expensive to just replace it if suspect.] Source: Motor Control Module Action: Replace the MCU Source: Motor Action: Check continuity of motor phases. Check continuity of the bridge terminal on the stator and observe that it is not burnt. Replace the stator.

Both were replaced last year. I went to the appliance store yesterday (where we bought the F&P and they repaired it last year). Service dept wasn't open but sales guy said it would be very unusual for the new solenoid to fail in 9 months. Our water is hard but not crazy hard or not full of sediment. So I have no idea - could it have been installed wrong in any sense or a faulty part? Seems unlikely. Our space constraints and the limited options that will fit are discouraging. I'd hate to have to get a small apartment version. The Speed Queen top loader should fit in the space. Sales guy said those are being phased out due to federal regulations - implied they would only get bigger. I'm inclined to just get the current SQ rather than fool with the F&P any more. It has another issue of scrud building on the outside of the tub so we're already sick of dealing with that periodically.

The seal isn't leaking now, it was already leaking and is the source of the water accumulation that zapped your previous board. Obviously there shouldn't be any water leaking into the console so that problem must be (should have been) identified and corrected as part of replacing the zapped board. The thermistor seal should be replaced.I suppose you could try silicone sealant or some such. One or more older models has the motor board water-cooled via an extension of the mixing chamber that interfaces into the board. I have one that's 21 years old and has not (yet) failed. F&P isn't the only brand that has the water valves in the console adjacent to an electronic board.