I tend to be very sceptical of 'miracle' products like Eleanor's fertilizer and Superthrive that use broad & vague rhetoric to tell you they do everything but cook a perfect 2-minute egg. If it worked like they want to believe it works, they would assuredly lay out the mechanism by which it works to satisfy the sceptics & even the cynics, thereby separating them from the ability to taint the manufacturers sweeping claims. It's sort of like the gritty mix or FP 9-3-6. I can recommend these products for container culture & make help you believe they will work because I can explain why and how they work in a way that leaves you feeling satisfied that your odds of seeing them as beneficial are very good. The many others adding their voices don't hurt, either. OTOH, we can see that it's difficult to sell heavy, peat-based soils when we look critically at them from the plant's perspective - or with the aim of optimizing growth and vitality. There will always be as few people who LOVE these heavy soils for whatever reason, but when it comes to convincing the masses that they truly ARE the best from the plant's perspective, the conversation usually finds them coming up short because of inherent issues that are very difficult to remedy. The same can be said of certain types of fertilizers. As a result, FloraNectar ensures optimal metabolic rates during the flowering and fruiting phase when nitrogen levels have been reduced. How can they make this claim? How can they 'ensure' anything optimal? FloraNectar fulfills the additional energy requirements of your plants throughout all phases of growth and during stressful times of transition. How? Plants' only source of energy comes from the sun & is stored in the sugars, starches, oils, and other bio-compounds they manufacture themselves .... When it comes to horticultural products, if it SEEMS too good to be true, there's a very strong likelihood it isn't. It doesn't bother me that some one else might be convinced of the product's value, but personally, I need a lot more convincing & something with a little more substance to sink my teeth into before I take the hook. ;-) AL

The biological world that needs to happen in such a perfect manner and consistently is makes no use to use any organic fertilizer in containerized plants. You’d be surprise at how much money is made on that and how much money people spend. There is a lot more to it than what I said but I have spent hundreds of dollars with no good results I wish I had saved before I ever discovered this particular forum. Not a one person I know very successful with perfect growing container plants uses organic fertilizers anymore except for in ground. One good fertilizer that gives your plants everything they need is all that is needed. Then of course growing conditions plays a huge part too Mike

"It looks like you switched to the Dyna grow 9-3-6 last year. Do you still use CRF in your soil mix if you are still using this fert?" Actually, I rarely use the CRFs at all. I like the near complete control the soluble fertilizers give me in containers. I'm pretty diligent about fertilizer applications, so I really don't need the CRFs to cover the 'in case I forget' base, or for any minor elements they might supply. I included them in the soil recipes to make it easier for others. As long as you're faithful to your nutrient supplementation program, you can easily do w.o them. If you think you'll be lax at times, I'd include them. 109 ppm alkalinity is nothing to be overly concerned about with fast container soils. It would be interesting to learn how the Ca and Mg levels are though. Alkalinity is related to pH because alkalinity (practically speaking and for our applications) determines your water's resistance to pH changes. If you have water 'A' at a pH of 9.0 with an alkalinity of 75 mg/L CaCO3, and water 'B', with a pH of 8.0 (a full point lower to begin with) and alkalinity of 300 mg/L CaCO3, it will take about 4 times as much 35% H2SO4 (sulfuric acid) to bring the water with the lower pH down to That aside - your water is better than mine, so I really doubt you'll have Fe/Mn issues if you're using either the 9-3-6 or MG. I will say though, that bark/peat soils have a potentially high Fe:Mn ratio, so applying Fe w/o Mn could easily create a deficiency of Mn. If I were in your shoes, I would do nothing until I actually saw evidence of an Fe deficiency. Then, I would acidify. Oh - the other likely cause of an Fe deficiency is too much P, which combines with the Fe to form an insoluble precipitate, so avoid the high P fertilizers - they are useless unless you are using them to supply the exact amount of P needed while intentionally (severely) limiting N. I used this strategy last year: I fertilized with regular dosages of 9-3-6 until the plants were well established. I then cut way back on the dosage and added ProTeKt to the solution. I rather like to envision that I used the added K (and got the benefit of the added silicon) to change the fertilizer ratio to 3:1:3 from a 3:1:2. This allowed me to reduce the dosage of N (reducing vegetative growth) while still having adequate P and K. Take care. Al

but first.. why???? i grew a tricolor beech in a half whiskey barrel for 2 winters ... because it was a bargain.. and i knew i was going to move.. and conifers are trees.. so it should not matter ... a direct correlation ... the biggest problem.. was moving the darn thing when i did move ... it was NOT light ... and i needed a dolly for it insure large drainage holes.. and the most important thing.. will be what media you fill the tub with ... you can NOT use dirt/soil ... and trees do NOT prefer your standard peat based potting media ... i would recommend a cactus mix.. or even better your own mix of 50% mini bark chunks and regular potting media ... the mini chunks.. are rather large pieces for a media and do not retain water like peat.. so it increases your water movement.. and by taking up space.. reduces the amount of peat ... because of the shear size of the pot.. i do not recall any additional winter protection in my z5 MI ... so i would expect that you should not worry about that in your z7 for the BAC .... the one thing i would warn about.. is making sure the pot [especially if black] .. stays out of winter sun ... or warming roots may become active.. when the tree cant ... even something as simple as a bale of straw.. to keep the sun off the pot would be enough ... but if you can move it.. put it out of the prevailing wind and the sun for winter .. and you should be all set.. make any sense?? ken