Need help determinate if joist and beam repairs or replacement are nee
Grace Li
6 years ago
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Deck Joist Sag - replace or repair?
Comments (3)How could some joists be 3/4" below the others? That's a big difference. 1) Should I sister up a new joist next to the bowed joists? And if I do, will the load make the current joist sag more? That could work. Set the new joist with the crown up, clamp them together (flush on top) and bolt or screw them together. 2) Should I flip it and plane what would now be a crown? no 3) Should I just replace the sagging joists? (Hard for me to do since I can not transport 16' joists) That could work...crown up. If you can't transport new joists, how can you get sister joists for solution #1) 4) since you have a beam in the middle (not really the middle), you can shim up the low joists. FIRST... I would run strings/blocks along the top of the outer joists...front to back, to make sure they are straight. I also run strings along the sides of the 2 outer joists and straighten them. Use nylon string. Make 7 identical small blocks of wood, put 1 block between string and joist top at each end of the string lines. Use the 7th block as your gauge. It should just fit between string and joist top...everywhere. I would run 3 tight string lines across all of the joists...one on each end, and 1 in the middle. Tweak the joists by shimming/planing until that block fits right. When you're done with the strings, your deck will be flat. Not necessarily level, but flat, and that's what you need to achieve. steve...See MoreHelp! Failing at repair / replace of drywall ceiling...
Comments (6)I am not-repeat not-a professional or expert, just a homeowner like yourself. Jost some ideas.... The edges: If it were mine, I think I would just tape and mud the wall and ceiling as best I could, and then cover the wall-ceiling joint crack with a crown molding or maybe even just some quarter-round stock. Light fixtures: On This Old House, when they have to make this cut in drywall, they use a special power tool with a spiral cutting bit that look like a drill bit, that guides on the inside edge of the metal fixture mounting box in the wall or ceiiling. Looks like you did this by hand with a keyhole saw or something similar. From what little I know about it, I'm not sure you can fix this with tape and mud. Again, if it were mine, I think what I would do is go down to Lowe's and buy an inexpensive plastic ceiling medallion, just big enough to cover the ragged part, and install that above the light fixture. It may be a bit "grand" for what looks like a pretty small room, but it's a lot less trouble than tearing out the ceiling and trying again....See MoreStone being Repaired-Need help. Any experts here today?
Comments (11)Let me answer some questions and address the excellent points.. weissman, this will certainly be our plan if I don't like what the guy today says. Green, yes, they did address the issue when this happened, well sort of. The one gentleman they had working out in the field for them doing this sort of work was awesome, total ocd about construction. He checked all the joists and could not find that any had moved and needed to be secured any more, everything over there was done right. They already are cross braced. Our foundation is Superior Walls, so those aren't going anywhere. We do have a whole house humidifier that we run in the winter, although last year it wasn't hooked up until very late in the Fall, after the counter snapped. The hvac guys forgot to run the water to it! We do run the air, it seems to run a lot, not constantly but it seems to be on whenever I check. enduring, no not really. Well, except for the fact that somehow the use of 3 2x6's screwed together passed code to be used as a support for a steel beam. We asked about it but the foreman told us "not to worry about it". (he's dead now, and let's just say that the people in the office would have killed him anyway if he wasn't because he should have caught that). But that group of boards started to bow, and the house did drop in that area (opposite corner of the kitchen). It's been replaced with a steel post, and the house was jacked back up. When the ocd guy saw that, he nearly fainted. He went into a panic, and went out and came back almost immediately with stuff to secure it until the post was replaced. He really thought if we got a good amount of snow on the roof, it could have gone....See MoreWant to educate myself about beam replacement
Comments (21)Casey is correct about the reaction loads. If you assume the spans are equal you only need to count the ends of all spans. The following analysis is based on limited information and is only intended to aid you in making preliminary decisions. An engineer will be required for the actual design. Assuming the second floor load is supported uniformly by a first floor bearing wall directly over the basement girder, the new girder can be three 1 3/4 x 18 LVL's or four 1 3/4 x 16 LVL's if their E = 2.0 and Fb = 2,900. Assuming the 16 inch deep beam is preferred for head room, the joists could be cut where they are notched and the beam installed between them and joist hangers added. When in place the four LVL's would need to be thru-bolted top and bottom as specified by the manufacturer. The required beam bearing at each end will be 4.2 inches and the support posts and any headers will need to be sized to provide a reaction of 8,500 lbs and so will each of the two new concrete spread footings. The existing footing at the exterior wall will require underpinning and the interior one will need to be replaced. I assume part of the stair will need to be temporarily removed. This won't be cheap or easy to install but I can assure you from long experience that no building official can refuse it if it has been properly designed, documented and stamped by a qualified structural engineer. Your engineer or contractor may prefer a glue lam beam. All of the necessary design information is available online from a half dozen manufacturers and some states would accept that information in lieu of an engineer's stamp (I recommend using an engineer anyway). A steel beam would fit within the joist depth but might present some additional work for joist connections. Good luck with it....See MoreGrace Li
6 years agokudzu9
6 years agoGrace Li
6 years agokudzu9
6 years ago
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