I use the gritty for slow growing woody plants (japanese maples, japanese red pine, etc) and the 5-1-1 for fast growing annuals (Lantana, Cuphea, etc) and a modified 5-1-1 (for Salvia) which is 3-1-1 with the "1" pearlite replaced by Diatomaceous earth (OptiSorb from FastenAll) for increased water holding capacity. Although this year I'm going to do a pot with 3-1-1 and one with straight Miracle Grow for the Salvia. They are on my deck in full sun, I mean dawn to dusk FULL sun! and there is a bit of a wind tunnel effect. I have to water 2x a day in 90+ weather or they will start to wilt. They are dark green and lose a lot of water perspiring, and I like to put 2 plants in a 4 gallon (ish) pot so there are a ton of blooms for the hummingbirds!

Turface can be a real boon for turf areas that undergo steady traffic (dogs or other wise). One of the worst offenders to turfgrass is compaction. But you need to understand that no lawn can withstand steady hard activity. If you knew what sort of efforts go into keeping a golf course green 'up to par', you would understand. ;-) Many sports fields, by the way, are constructed (nearly artificial) soils. The Quick Dry is too fine textured a material to be useful for your purpose. Your goal should always be to do what you can to provide AIR spaces for roots. This is a fact whether you are discussing lawns OR containerized plants. Air spaces (pores) can be improved by the addition of coarse organic matter, too. It's all about porosity. As a matter of fact, you should always remember that OM can be the 'cure' for lots of soil related issues. It creates porosity within a heavy, airless soil but will also offer water holding capacities to a sandy soil. Al IS a guru. He is an incredible warehouse of knowledge and practical experience regarding soil and root systems, rhizosphere interactions, soil structure, plant growth and development, and much more. Turfgrass is simply not something that he has concentrated on, thus he was certainly not 'passing the buck'. ;-) Although Turface and similar products have been designed for use by the sports field industries, bonsai enthusiasts and other container growers have used it quite happily for ages. I've used Turface in my containers ever since I saw the beneficial properties during my days as a consultant for the golf course industry in SC. Once I began building container soils that were extremely coarse, my plants showed quite an amazing boost in vigor and over all health. Now, if I were given the choice of using ANY commercial potting medium or not having containerized plants at all....I think I would go plantless. It makes THAT much of a difference. I suggest that you do a Search right here in the Container Forum so that you can gain a little insight on the benefits of a coarse textured container medium. I'll even attach a link to get you started. I also suggest that you try the Lawn Forum for your turfgrass issues. There is always lots going on over there, and I'm sure that you will find the answers you are looking for. Some pretty crazy characters, too. Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: Grab that beer and let's read....get one for me, too!

I'm not new to these mixes. I just want to make sure they are made exactly correct. I'm in my 40th year of growing cacti in pots. I'm very aware of nutritional needs. I even had to do the chemical equations in college. I wasn't very good at it though :) I barely passed my biochemistry classes. "Drew, pumice isn't a direct substitute for granite" Al mentions it in his original discussion about the gritty mix. He makes it sounds as if it can be, but it is unclear, he could have meant as a substitute for turface. I'm not going to use it for the experiment. I have #2 granite. I want to try the bonsai mixture with pumice, but I guess that should be another experiment. I may add another plant with pumice to see what it does. Darn, I'm up to five plants now! When you say you screen 1/8 to 3/8, do you mean that is the size you want? Thanks for the info. An EBay seller sells prescreen at 3/8 and 3/16. I thinking both may be good depending on the size of the pot. I actually would like to use it in small pots, and large pots. Where can I get screens this size? Any hints?

Well, I'll be.... I think this was my very first post on this forum. In any case I look back on it feeling a bit embarrassed because within a few months of my last post, I killed this plant too. Fast forward a year and a half, and I have a totally different view on soil and plants in general, thanks to much of the knowledge on this forum. It's still a bit early to declare victory, but....I bought yet another gardenia after formally giving up when the one posted here croaked. Im ashamed, but I did. What's the difference between 201 and 202 victims? A serial killer is a serial killer, right? LOL Now, in week 8 of this plant being in my possession, look at it! There's not a single yellowing leaf; there's no dried leaves or scorched leaves; buds have formed and they're not dropping off or withering away! And most importantly, the thing ain't dead. Granted, I don't really touch her except to turn her around. OK sometimes i wipe her leaves and sing to her LOL. She stays behind that balcony pole and faces west with sun on top of her at about 1pm for a couple of hours, then by the late afternoon, the crape myrtle shade her some -- tad hot but with the pole sheltering her a little also, she seems fine, at least in September. She's not dying so who am I to argue with where she likes it? At the time I bought her, I had nothing on hand was Pro-Mix HP and I've fertilized her once so far, with Miracid or what used to be Miracid (the one for Azaleas & Camelias). I only water her once a week even living outside in 90 degree plus weather, but I will give her a quick spray with a water hose once or twice a week in between, just because I'm me and I can't help myself. Haha. Well here ya go!