Doesn't it seem like jumping the gun asking for design advice for a property you don't even own, and may not even purchase? Additionally there are obvious discrepancies between the aerial photo and the topo plan you included which seems to show a 5foot cross slope at the garage doors/driveway, yet the driveway layout would seem to indicate the grading is actually level across this end of the house. Creating a more level area immediately adjacent the back side of the house may not even be the most logical/cost effective location,nor have you given any idea of what you'd be willing to spend to transform this supposed liability. If you're seriously interested in bidding on this property, I'd suggest it makes more sense to revisit the property with a local landscape contractor who could advise you on cost effective viable solutions as well as give you an idea of costs. Getting what ifs on redesigning this site with the limited info given is not going to give you anything useful in my opinion. At the very least you should add additional photos at ground level showing the real existing grades and conditions, and a better idea the minimum dimensions of the flat area you want to fit into that backyard.

Caroline, People don't need fibers for the small projects. Just makes your project more expensive and depending on which fibers you buy can make your project "hairy" or clump up in big balls. I wonder sometimes if it's "fiber envy" someone else said they used it so now I've got to have it. You should be fiber-shy! LOL! I use mortar mix or hypertufa (equal parts portland cement, sand and sifted peat moss NOT FIBERS) for leaf castings. Stepping stones either concrete mix or a mortar mix depending on the finally design application. Good luck with your projects. p.s. If it's a very large leaf use mesh drywall tape embedded in the back of the casting for re-inforcement. You put down a layer of your cement mix, strips of drywall tape then a final layer of cement mix. Don't forget to embed a hanger if this will be a wallhanging. Billie

It depends on exactly what's where...and there are several methods. All of the following are done a bit above the waterline, but careful that the attaching method be level so it looks better if it's to be visible. I use a water level for this. For flat areas I drill a hole into/thru the concrete and then using masonry screws I screw a board to the concrete. For even an 8' length 2 screws are plenty. The board is parallel with the waterline. I nail the liner to the board using 1/2" roofing nails. The nails have to be above the waterline. I prefer to nail down into the top of the board rather than into the side. The type of board can vary. Plain wood, pressure treated or my fav plastic deck material. I rip down the decking to about 1"x1". Sometimes I use a full wood 2x4 pressure treated. For curves I use bender board, again I prefer plastic but wood is fine. I rip down the plastic bender board to a 1-2" width. I put on 2 or 3 ply (layers) and the when nailing the nail just goes between the plys when nailed from the top and I use a 3/4" nail then. Nailing from the side requires more plys so I don't see the point of that. I like using concrete screws because they last and are easier than epoxy. But epoxy can be used. For epoxy you have to brace the piece while the epoxy cures which is a pain. A combination does work well, a few screws where you can and then epoxy any loose places and the screws hold the board in place. You can also push a bit of cloth into gaps to keep the epoxy from flowing down and out the bottom. You can also cover a bit of cloth in epoxy and shove that into gaps. It does not require a strong structure. The weight of the water will push the liner against the concrete and nail it into place, you can't move it pulling as hard as you like. The only thing that's needed is to stop the loose liner above the water from flopping over into the pond. There isn't a great glue for attaching EPDM to concrete. It just doesn't last very long. Depending on the rock at the top I'd bust them out, lay the liner and then mortar the rocks back into place. I normally mortar over the liner, or mortar rock over the liner. In this case the mortar can be enough to stop the liner from flopping over. However, I prefer attaching a plastic board, nailing the liner and then mortaring over it all. I think that lasts longer and is easier to do even though it may sound harder. In all cases I don't nail liner until after the pond is full. This requires the liner to be larger than needed, but that's normally not a problem.

It sounds to me like you have made a concrete kick plate. The vertical portion that is between your threshold and step. I would just precast the concrete slab 2" thick if possible. This way you will get a better finish and you can even round over the top edge in the formwork. After the slab is properly cured, remove from formwork, seal it on the front and sides for protection from elements, then adhere with modified mortar (like for cultured stone) or liqui nails exterior stone or landscape block adhesive. You can add more portland to most mixes. Too much can cause cracking and weakness in concrete though. In the case of a Quickcrete or Sakrete standard bag mix you are ok to add up to ten pounds. It will make it creamier and stronger.