Not knowing what you are dealing with is the reason I suggested getting horse tested for mineral deficiencies. She may or may NOT have a mineral problem. Test tells you that answer so you cross off that possibility. If you are in a selenium deficient area, you need to be adding selenium and Vit E(helper allowing horse to absorb selenium) to horse diet. You can buy both items at the local elevator. They are not mixed evenly, check with your vet for proportions. I find them fairly inexpensive, easy to feed in powder form. Not a horse special product, so way cheaper than a name-brand horse item. Horse needs selenium for muscle and reproductive tract. Being deficient can make horse very muscle sore, lead to poor heat cycles, sore backs, among other things. I also thought my good pasture, nice hay, clean grain was enough. Getting a lame horse, too sore to use from being selenium deficient changed my viewpoint. Dr. doing the mineral test had never seen one test so low and still be moving. He came right back out to give her a helping shot, then told us to get the powder. Amazing the change that daily tablespoon of mixed powders made to the horse. My case is extreme. My other horse, same field, diet, showed no deficiency. Horses had been together for 10 years. Just the way two different bodies use what is avalilable to them. If you have sheep, do they have a sheep mineral block? There is stuff in sheep feed that is bad for horses. The same way that copper in horse feed is bad for sheep. Horse could be getting wrong minerals from sheep feed or block, throwing her system off. This is where over-supplementing can throw body system off. Horse only needs TINY amounts of these needed minerals. You have to look at all the stuff being fed, read labels, not add a little of this and that. Complete feeds are just that, COMPLETE, if fed at the rates maker recommends. Horse shouldn't then be getting extra, other supplemental stuff.

...my dirt felt like walking on a water bed That is hilarious...and so true!! I know exactly what you're talking about and we're showing our age. They haven't made water beds for the past 30 years. I'm the one who started the anti-tilling movement here. Several others have joined the movement, but we're still only about a handful. The problem with tilling is settling. When you fluff up the soil with a hand held rototiller, you cannot control how deep the tines dig in. If you could remove all the fluffy soil after you tilled it, what you would find is a rolling surface. That surface is caused by the tiller digging in where the soil happened to be softer and skipping over harder (dry??) spots. I've used a tiller before. It's fun to let it dig in and churn the soil to fluffy dust. You can really see it working - and ruining the soil. After you have it rototilled, you will level the surface in preparation for the new sod or seed. When you level the surface on top of an uneven subsurface, the soil surface will eventually settle to match the profile of the uneven subsurface. For me "eventually" took 3 full years. Now I have to level it again. Sand does settle. It settles much faster than 3 years, but it does settle. It might be easier to keep it level in sand. Also tilling with a tractor is better because it holds the tool at one depth. You can try the roller to settle the soil. You should use it again after you apply the sod. Why? To ensure the bottom of the sod is in good contract with the top of the underlying soil. Roots cannot grow through air to reach the soil. What should you have done? If you wanted to change the grading for drainage or to add interest to the area, you should have used a tractor with a box blade on the back. That is the equipment used by professional landscapers to prepare land for planting. And if you are not already a professional finish grader, don't think you can rent the equipment and become one in a weekend. That skill can take years of daily practice to master.

Laurie, so nice to see you back, and I hope you are improving healthwise, and also emotionally, I know how tiring things can be, and its good to see you back here, just try not to over-do things, one day at a time, things can get done if and when you feel strong enough. Nina, I'm saddened to hear Bentley is not doing so good, its so difficult to make that decision, I could cry for you right now. I think I have missed some comments somehow, Destiny? I have just read about her in Laurie's comment, I'm guessing she is a new addition! As for Tabitha, we had a set back, she woke up suddenly on the armchair, and I think she must have forgotten she had lost her leg, jumped straight off the chair, and unfortunately hurt her remaining leg. (despite steps, cushions etc, which she totally refuses to use) Vet said it was most likely bruised, (not broken thank the Lord) so back on cage rest she went again for another week, which is why I have not had much time to get on here. We were so upset, since she was going so well. It seems to have taken her back quite a bit, she is very very slow now, and seems to have lost some of her confidence, which may not be such a bad thing, but she has also stiffened up on her back legs from all the laying around, so I think we are in for quite a long haul to get her completely moving again. She is on joint supplements now, but vet says it will take 4-6 weeks for them to start kicking in, so, slowly goes it!! But, we thank our lucky stars she is still with us, her recent bloods were all good, and she is eating and drinking well, and does move a bit, so we'll just take it one day at a time. It is also extremely hot here at the moment, so the heat is probably making her less willing to move much. Laurie, how is Mew? Hoping he is still doing good, head bonks from us!! Nina, keep strong, and know you are in our thoughts, keep us updated, and give Bentley a huge hug from me. Take care guys, will keep you posted. x

Where in the world are you? Do you live where there are watering restrictions? Now is the time to take a good look at the soil and make any corrections that will help make that soil into a good healthy place to grow plants. A good reliable soil test will be a start so you know what the soil pH and major nutrient levels are and these simple soil tests may be of some use as well. 1) Soil test for organic material. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell, to a point. Too much organic matter can be bad as well. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. kimmq is klimmsr