Can I help naturalize this slope?
7 years ago
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- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoDalton the Bengal (Zone 6) thanked Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
- 7 years ago
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Can I Put Plumies on Slope?
Comments (11)OMG!! You have a great place there. What a beautiful canvas to work with and u've already done such a great job landscaping it. I need to take lessons from you Plumie!Only on a much much smaller scale. Hahahahaha.... There's no reason why you cannot plant your plumies on a slope as long as it drains away and not collect water. Of course you don't want erosion as the plumerias roots are not all that tough. However you may wish to have it anchored so that it will not venture off the slope. Maybe even put a step in there just to hold it in place like u did with the water fall or something. Whatever you decide to do always bear in mind drain away and not collect. I've seen a large plumeria trees dug up and the root system wasn't much to speak of but it did transplant well. It could be cause it wasn't that old of a tree. I don't really know. Gosh u need a yard tour after you're finished. Hahaha... I don't have a slope but I do have some of my plumies in the ground. Good luck and please post pictures. Would love to see what u've decided to do with your plumies. Janet...See MoreCan I use the SFG method on a sloped garden?
Comments (15)Hi ragtimegal, You might be looking to economize with the outlay for your planting area. It is a small area & I do not know the price of materials which the other posters have suggested to solve your concerns. I'll elaborate some alternative scenarios. First allow me to surmise from the picture that your only garden spot has a negligible covering of soil left. This means to get any crop productivity you want a few tricks when start building soil. Cheapest: for each plant dig out a notch as a fairly level planting platform -which is where you then add all your goodies ( & since it's base is level when you water that plant the water is not running down the slope); if you want to install some sort of soil retainer arc below the individual plant's site you can use just about any flexible scrap. As for this concept of individual plant notches, it is as if you make a terrace for each plant's roots. (The only tool required is merely a pick, with one side a point & other blade flat across.) I will go further & elaborate on 2 refinements. One is that with these mini-terraces you can align the plant notches running any way. I gave reason for up & down the slope; Dan for going 4-5 ft. horizontal across the slope; & a staggered off set notching pattern would also work. The other refinement is that below each plant notch you can set a Vetiver seedling to grow in place for future erosion control. Now, I do not know if the Vetiver will be cheaper than going with store bought retaining materials. It will be a slower solution since it is a growing grass. However, the Vetiver will propagate profusely & within a reasonable time you will have a steady, endless supply of free Vetiver rootlets to harvest. Use the root divisions to protect your other plantings & the costly stuff you will be adding to improve your original dirt with. I assume you are not going to throw money at this project, which is why I am suggesting going with the Vetiver. The management of Vetiver is quite simple: just prune it low repeatedly & harvest rootlets to keep it to the area you want. It will not rob your plants of water, in fact it will improve the soils water retention. Dan mentions other grasses & I work extensively with Vetiver. Finally, here's a scenario that accords with Dan's suggestion to plant across the slope (even if you don't notch plants in, but go with planting beds or a series of single parallel rows ): plant Vetiver down slope from your crops running parallel across the length of the growing segments....See MorePre-Slope, Slope, Drains, Membranes....I'm confused.
Comments (12)Much depends on the reason for the crack, and if the crack is active or if it's old and has stabilized. ie, no more movement. If the crack is active, it's an "all bets off" type of scenario. There's no sense in tiling over an actively moving slab. I'd need to know why it's moving. Expansive clay underneath? Water issues? Poorly compacted subsoil that has settled and thus the slab has sunken in? There are myriad reasons. Not all cracks are problematic. Large expanses of concrete can show shrinkage cracks. They are simply a part of the curing process. Shrinkage cracks will never move, they really aren't an issue. Some structural cracks are done. They've moved. They've settled. They've stabilized. They'll never move again. So not all structural cracks are an issue. It's simply actively moving cracks that you need to be wary of. SInce you've already made patch repairs to the slab, I'm guessing that the existing cracks are not active. Were they active I'd have recommended digging out the broken concrete. excavating down, filling and compacting a new base, then repouring a new slab. For your case with the cracks being inactive, I would put a crack isolation membrane down. That'll serve two purposes: 1) It'll isolate the cracked slab from your mud bed. 2) It can act as a moisture barrier, preventing moisture in the earth below the slab from wicking up through the slab and into your new mud bed. A crack isolation membrane I use is Nobel CIS. You can then put your mud base on top of the CI membrane and work up from there. I'd recommend Hydroban with that. Hydroban is a water proof barrier but not a vapor barrier, so it'll work well with the CIS which is a waterproof and vaporproof barrier. The good news? Sort of? If you use Nobel CIS (or use an equivalent product) over the entire bathroom floor slab, then you can put the sloped mud (or preformed shower tray) over the shower portion of the floor and then simply tile over the CIS on the remainder of the floor. Do understand it's not the only way. There are other products you can use. Does that make sense?...See MoreHelp with cabinet paint color! BM Natural Cream or Nature’s Essentials
Comments (14)@paynerobin Can you tell me what trim color you used with Natures Essentials/Natural Cream? I just had kitchen cabinets in Natural Cream installed and now struggling with wall/trim color. Would like a white/soft white paint color for walls and trim. I was considering Cloud White, White Dove. I like Swiss Coffee but not enough contrast. I know I do not want Chantilly Lace on the walls,,any recommendations for a white that goes well with Natural Cream/Nature Essentials?...See More- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
- 7 years ago
- 7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoDalton the Bengal (Zone 6) thanked Logan L Johnson
- 7 years ago
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