Drainage trough - how to improve appearance?
biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
7 years ago
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biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoRelated Discussions
best drainage for tulips?
Comments (1)You do not mention compost, the most valuable amendment. Vegetative matter in the form of compost will do wonders for your drainage. I would never add sand, not because sand is bad, but because it takes so much of it to make a difference. Al...See MoreLandscape Design Forum FAQ - Improved
Comments (7)While I think that the "FAQ" as outlined by swanoir was presented tongue in cheek ('the humus'), many of the subsequent comments and/or links to threads that could/should be included in a FAQ were presented in a more serious tone. And maybe they do make sense as a foundation to a real LD forum FAQ. But I've also sensed something else in these comments that may contribute to the apparent lack of communication between new posters seeking advice and those that regularly frequent this forum and offer it. And that is that the long checklist provided by Miss R must be (or should be) answered in detail before posting. Well, of course not! But it is definitely something worth reviewing and giving some thought to. This checklist, or something very similar, is what most designers utilize when first meeting with a prospective client. It gives them a feeling for what the client wants to do with the property, how they intend to use it, what they hope to get out of it and how much effort (time/$$) are they are intending to put into it. Hopefully, reviewing an outline or checklist such as this could help to refine and focus some of those blank slate questions and even educate those new posters totally unfamiliar with the process the degree of complexity, the number of variables and exactly what is involved in the formulation of a landscape design. Even DIY landscape texts intended for the homeowner with no previous design or landscaping experience offer similar checklists to get one started thinking about the process. Obviously, this is overkill for those questions that are more issue-specific, but I think very appropriate for those that are much broader and far less focused....See MoreAdvice on Improved Backyard Drainage
Comments (7)I was thinking of using the french drain as a replacement for the catch basin. It would serve the same purpose... collect the water in one place before it can be drained away. I was also kind of thinking it might look nicer having the exposed gravel for the french drain than the catch basin with just dirt around it. You're probably right though. The french drain is a lot more work to serve the same purpose and with possibly less capacity. I'm not sure how to calculate the capacity of a french drain but some really rough math makes me believe that the french drain is gonna have half the capacity. Doesn't your argument against french drains still apply to catch basins though? It's still possible to overwhelm the catch basin if it's undersized? Maybe it's just easier to under-size a french drain? What size catch basin should I be using? Your use of double negatives (unlikely and not) has me a little confused. :) Are you saying that two 4" pipes IS likely to be overkill, or that two 4" pipes IS NOT likely to be overkill? Later on it seems like you're advocating for using the two pipes. All the basins I initially saw with 2 outlets had the outlets on the opposite sides of each other. I figured I would either need have one outlet facing the correct direction and use two 90 degrees elbows to get the other pipe facing the correct direction, or put both outlets perpendicular to desired direction and then use one elbow on each side. I was hesitant to use so many elbows. I read stuff about using 45 degrees (or less) if possible to prevent the water from slowing down. Should I not be worried about that? Some more searching and I found this basin (http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/NDS-Drainage-Catch-Basin-p/nds-1800.htm) which lets me choose the sides I want the outlets. Having one face the correct direction and the other only being 90 degrees off seems better....See MorePlease help with drainage and landscape on affordabl mid century condo
Comments (18)Thanks guys! It seems that the builders plan in 1974 was for the drainspout runoff to go to the street and to the right side of the photo. Then sidewalks were installed down the hill and around a curve, and they are sloped so the side against the curb is lower than the curb. Error? Sunk? idk. Then the 4 ft high berm added by our neighbor trapped the runoff. Our soil is dense clay and there isn't an easy exit for the runoff. During and after several rainstorms since we dug the giant trench I observed the runoff and smushy tested the lawn to be sure that the downspouts are the problem, and yup, seems to be. Following guidelines from Penn State Extension, the trench with rocks on the bottom and a few plants (carex?) should solve the problem for our average rainstorm, but for a large storm i need to protect the bldg foundation and send the runoff forward, I think having the lawn from the trench to the street lower that the garden from the trench to the building will d that. But you are right Angel18432, it would be better to be just lower and not graded to the ditch. Thank you. also love how the bamboo looks, i will look into that. I cant believe I was so dense,of course -"do not block doors - emergency exit", maybe add arrow to correct addresses. ugh. Yes, the lighting needs work. Yardvaark, I have re-formed and adjusted for changing conditions many of grassy swales and dug what you are describing in another area to control large storm runoff, but the excess has a good way out. I thought that I couldn't do the same here as this area gets wet every storm and will be too smushy, like the areas I want to fix are now. And i didnt know how to improve curb appeal working around a big area smushy most of the time. Rain garden? mulch? floating around? plain dirt? all ground cover? time to establish in wet clay soil? grass? how to mow it? grass clippings with seeds all over? at least 10 ft from bldg? what to do in between? doors have to be accessible to each walkway, esp to move large items. I know you feel natural is best, and you have opened my eyes to that and gardening vs landscape, but I don't know how to do it here. If I am thinking wrong and missing the obvious, please let me know! I did change most of the area from the bldg to the 10ft area to mulch, cut down the yews, will be diligent about tapering other shrubs....See Moregardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
7 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
7 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
7 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked gardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)biondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley)
7 years agowhitewatervol (Z 8a/7b Upstate SC)
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agobiondanonima (Zone 7a Hudson Valley) thanked whitewatervol (Z 8a/7b Upstate SC)Yardvaark
7 years ago
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mad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)