We received a a two doorbell battery run kit as a gift. We have a (900 sq ft) house shaped like a boxcar, with doors at each end. The kit had range problem, the receiver had to be placed in the center of the house. Sometimes the front doorbell just didn't ring, and it is closest to the receiver. Eventually it stopped working. One day I saw the receiver on the living room wall was caked on the bottom with green corrosion salts from the battery. The salts went onto the wall. We haven't removed it yet, so I can't tell you the brand name, but it was from a big box store. There aren't many choices, and they are all from China, land of the lousy electronics. One day when our house is rewired we will get everything hardwired/

Well, it's just a couple of low voltage, light gauge wires that are carrying DC. If you're ok with cutting out the drywall from where you are to where you want to be, you could just have the wires lengthened by splicing -- I'd probably have them soldered for permanency because the splice will be inaccessible in the future -- and taping the splice. They're not part of your regular electrical system, so you can do this without worrying about code or safety problems.

What you are missing is that if there is no ground wire in the existing cable, there will be no ground for the circuit and any extension of that circuit. The new cable's ground wire can therefore be ignored because if it were connected it would not be doing anything. Connecting it would only mislead someone who was working on the circuit later. The purpose of the ground wire is to trip the breaker if the housing of the exhaust fan came in contact with the wiring and would shock someone who touched it. It is unlikely that someone would be touching the housing unless there is a light in the fan housing. I'm not sure what the electrical code says about extending a non-conforming circuit to a new fan but I doubt it is allowed. Of course, it is also likely that only a licensed electrician is allowed to do this work. In any case, if the installation caused a fire it is unlikely you would be insured if there was evidence the fan was not installed by a previous owner. Also, if the new junction box is metal you must use cable clamps where the cables enter through the knock-out holes. The box not only provides isolation of the connection but secures it so it can't be pulled apart. The cable must also be stapled to the framing at certain intervals; it can't be lying loose in the attic. 2 wire ungrounded non-metallic sheathed cable is rare in my area. Post knob & tube, home wiring was metal armored (AKA "BX") and the metal provided a ground to the metal boxes although it was not always reliable for long circuits. In the 60's an aluminum strip was added inside the cable to improve the continuity of the ground. Non-metallic (plastic) sheathed cable (AKA "Romex") became popular in the 50's and in 62 the electrical code made a bare ground wire mandatory for all branch circuits. For your wiring to have only 2 wires and no ground it would probably have been installed in the 50's by someone who didn't want to use BX cable. But this is not all bad because the insulation on BX wiring tended to crumble when exposed to air and is more dangerous than any other kind of wiring wiring. For any further help you should post photos of the original cable and the main panel with the cover off. Tripping the main breaker is wise but NEVER assume a branch circuit is dead without using a voltage detector. If a breaker can be turned off, it can be turned on again by someone else. Always put a note on the panel. A 120v wire can stop your heart instantly. A voltage detector is the smartest $10 you will ever spend. Here is a link that might be useful: voltage detector

This reviewed published scientific paper confirmed the usefulness of heavy plastic mulches against Bermuda Grass, and found some organic mulches that were also effective. http://hortsci.ashspublications.org/content/43/3/795.full From the abstract: "Therefore, a 2-year study was conducted under 15-year-old mandarin trees to compare the effects of rice straw mulch, cattail mulch, black plastic mulch, hand hoeing, cultivation, glyphosate, and unweeded control treatments on weed control, fruit yield, and fruit quality. The greatest control (94%–100%) of weeds occurred with the plastic mulch (200 or 150 μm) and three mulch layers of rice straw or cattail. Covering soil with cattail or rice straw mulch (two layers) gave 85% to 98% control of weeds. Uncontrolled weeds in the weedy control caused significant reduction in yield and fruit quality and decreased the yield/tree by 62% compared with hand hoe treatment. Plastic mulches of 200 and 150 μm, cattail (Cyprus articulatus L.) mulch (two or three layers) and two mulch layers of rice (Oryza sativa L.) straw treatments significantly increased the fruit yield/tree by 24%, 18%, 20%, 11%, and 12% more than cultivation treatment, respectively, without significant differences among these superior treatments. Soil mulching with three layers of rice straw, cultivation, glyphosate, and 80-μm plastic mulch treatments caused a significant reduction in weed density and weed biomass, but gave lower yield than superior treatments. Which weeds were in the experiment? " The major grass weeds present on the experimental site were bermudagrass [Cynodon dactylon (L.) Pers.], barnyardgrass [Echinochloa colonum (L.) Link], torpedo grass (Panicum repens L.), and sandbur (Cenchrus pennisetiformis, Hochst. & Steud.) as a grass, and redroot pigweed (Amaranthus retroflexus L.), common purslane (Portulaca oleracea L.), and petty spurge (Euphorbia peplus L.) as broadleaf weeds."