Having spent a decent number of years in places where bilharzia (worms that enter the skin, grow, and then finally leave, picked up by wading in or drinking contaminated water), Onchocerciasis (aka 'River Blindness', from fly bites), Falciparum malaria from mosquito bites), those little worms that dig under your toenails (forget the name) , 'bot' flies, the ones where the eggs stay on wet laundry, so you have to iron everything or else you have a worm larvae burrowing and growing along the bikini line, then Trypanosomiasis (sleeping sickness, from the tsetse fly; they sure love it when you go in the shade). I honestly wouldn't worry about domestic poop from your domestic dog, I mean unless you just let him devour stray, stumbling and obviously sick rodents and 3 week old road kill for his main source of nutrition. Where I live now, I have about a half cubic yard (bit of poetic license) of raccoon poop, in the summer, all over the place. Its disgusting. Like owning 34 German Shepherds on laxitives. This stuff I am pretty wary of, and depending on location, I either take a shovel and toss it over the fence into the pasture beyond, or bury it in-situ. I have become allergic to furry pets, so I can't keep dogs anymore. That limitation does not stop me from offering advice (obviously).

Here's how I compost all of the poop (I also use premium dog food) from my eleven dogs: About 5 feet away from my ornamental trees (to avoid hitting too many large tree roots), I dig a hole approximately 12 inches deep and 12 inches wide. That is big enough to hold all of the poop for approximately a week. I don't add anything else (have a separate compost pile for everything else). Once the hole is full, I cover it back over with the original soil so it resembles a large mound and dig a new hole about 2 feet away. As the poop breaks down, the mound will sink on its own without any additional work from you. The tree also appreciates the nutrients. Best of all, the worms and other composting helpers will follow the trail of poop from hole to hole around the tree. By the time you get all the way around (provided it's a good sized tree), the original hole site will be fully composted and ready for refilling. Just one word of caution: Make sure to do this around ornamental trees and bushes only. There are many who believe that composting dog poop around fruit trees can cause contamination of the fruit, even if your dogs are perfectly healthy. It's just not worth the risk either way. Happy composting! :)

Dog's allergies are often caused by their becoming allergic to the protein sources in their food. By switching to homemade food, you may find it doesn't eliminate the problem if you're still feeding chicken or beef or whatever he's become allergic to. You may need to go to some of the less commonly fed meats such as buffalo or rabbit. They can develop allergies at any time in their lives and they become more common with age, so switching to a protein they've never had before means they've never developed an allergy to it. If you do decide to cook your dog's food, I included a link to a calculator that will help you determine how many calories your dog should need. Of course, you'll have to figure out how many calories are in the food you make and then you can adjust the amount you feed as time goes on and you see whether he's slimming down or not. Also, I thought I'd mention how important it is to include a calcium source in homemade food. It's very crucial for dogs to have the proper balance between phosphorus and calcium or they can become very ill. Meat is full of phosphorus, but not calcium, and they get their calcium from eating bones. If you aren't feeding raw bones he can chew up and eat, you will need to add either bonemeal or I use a product called Eggshellent Calcium made from ground eggshells. I would also recommend using a good vitamin supplement to ensure that you're covering all the bases. Here is a link that might be useful: Calorie calculator

A good quality (yes even grocery brand)dry kibble formulated for your dogs' age ,weight, size and activity level is the best thing you can do for your dog. In order to meet the nutritional requirements for a healthy dog you would have to buy bottles and bottles of vitamins, minerals and supplements to add to the home cooked food. It is true that there seem to be more animals developing tumors and other stuff that we didn't see so much of before. That could be because we are just "seeing" it more because more animals get vet care today instead of dying of unknown causes but research is leaning towards over-vaccinating our pets. Dogs should get all their puppy shots and also be fully vaccinated the first year after. Then you should talk to your vet on what vaccines are really necessary for your individual dog and on what schedule. My dogs are on the 3-4 year plan. The only vaccine they get exactly on schedule is for Rabies. We are fortunate that our county requires the rabies vaccine every three years. Little known dirty secret is that there is no one year vaccine or three year vaccine. The only time one year comes into play is for puppies who get it and then need another dose after the first year. Another culprit may be heart worm meds.If you live in an area where exposure is likely you MUST continue your heart worm meds but if the problem is seasonal or non-existent in your area you don't need it year round or at all unless you travel with your pet. People worry about the food but don't have a qualm about using weed killers and pesticides in the ares their dogs run around in. Your dog doesn't need to be dosed with heavy-duty flea killers on a monthly basis either unless environmental issues come into play. I'll get off my soapbox now.