Mold behind building wrap
K D
7 years ago
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Home Probe
7 years agoCLC
7 years agoRelated Discussions
wrapped in mold
Comments (9)Hi gman, Did you have some sort of vent area on top of the tree? If your using plastic it should have a venting area on top to prevent condensation build up. This can be done using various methods. I even saw people insert two or three pieces of watering garden hoses placed inside the allowed to hang on the out side of the covered tree. The hoses are placed to hang at different levels inside the covered tree. Near the bottom, in the middle area and near the top. I saw this work every year for a person that did it this way. Some even use a large tomato or coffee can with holes drilled in the sides placed in the wrapping material at the very top with the drilled holes left exposed to the outside. It may be possible for your trees to recover but I would say it's a long shot just by the way you described the damage. Better if you had a photo. Lou NE., PA...See MoreNo house wrap? HELP
Comments (32)I've never seen house wrap used. I think it's a north american thing because your construction techniques often require it, like your non-universal adaption of rainscreen instead using single layer paneling. We just built a house and here (Finland. Sweden, etc) and we put the moisture barrier (special type of plastic and special type of tape) on the inside. This ofcourse requires a good mechanical ventilation in a modern house. The biggest reason for the air barrier is that fiberglass/rockwool's hydroscopic, in older houses they use organic insulation like sawdust that can withstand moisture better and since there is no barrier, the moisture continually moves freely frominside out and it can dry out. This isn't possible using fiberglass or rockwool style insulation. Rain screen is probably the major reason you don't need house wrap. Commonly here the exterior is first paneling, which is wood, vinyl hasn't caught on here and hopefully won't. Then comes an air space to protect the exterior grade drywall (OSB and such hasn't caught on either). Then insulation which is usually plain rockwool or fiberglass wool, 250mm I think was used in our house, then the moisture barrier comes, then another air barrier of 45mm (can also be filled with rockwool, a little insulation inside the vapor barrier is OK, but no more than that), then interior drywall. The main purpose of this is to prevent the barrier from getting holes in it when putting up paintings and such. So anyway my point is housewrap isn't anything that is super neccessary, we don't ever use it here, but we also only build using rain screen which makes house wraps unneccesary. IMO rainscreen is a simpler and superior way to build. I must say in our arctic climate I don't see how an exterior grade wrap with all the insulation on the inside wouldn't lead to severe mold issues in a very short time span, perhaps it works where it's warmer but here it looks like a disaster waiting to happen....See MoreTyvek "DrainWrap vs. Tyvek "HomeWrap" with James Hardie Lap Siding
Comments (7)Ditto Worthy and JDS, Best would be 3/8-3/4" strapping with coravent or crafted insect screen at top and bottom. Any flat non-woven housewrap like 15# felt, standard tyvek or typar would be fine in that application if not using a WRB integrated structural sheathing like Huber Zip. If installers aren't comfortable with a true rainscreen strapping, then homeslicker would be next best followed by drainable housewraps. We've used 3d mesh like homeslicker behind shingles but not lap siding as I've read it can become wavy. Good job researching best siding practices. I don't think any siding should be installed flat against structural sheathing with standard housewraps in any climates except very dry. Non-insulated vinyl being an exception as it creates it's own rainscreen. Check out Matt Risinger's video to see a performance experiment between regular tyvek and stuccowrap. Speaking of which, I hope you are including exterior foam or similar performing wall details....See MorePro plz help tile changing hidden mold after new build shower install?
Comments (18)jillian, a couple of things: The shower pan is "the floor" of your shower. There should be a waterproofing membrane of some sort under the tile, and it's a code requirement that the waterproof membrane be sloped towards the drain between 1/4" per foot and 1/2" per foot. Now, I'm not talking about the tile itself, which should also be sloped to the drain. In addition to the tile being sloped, the waterproofing membrane needs to be sloped as well. What often happens is installers will pace the membrane flat on the subfloor, then put a sloped layer of what we call "deck mud" on top of the membrane. Nothing at all wrong with deck mud. It's a sand and cement mixture that is fairly porous, so water can percolate through it. Water WILL get past the floor tile and grout. Grout is porous. The water then gets in to the deck mud, just as it is supposed to. It percolates down through the deck mud until it hits the membrane, just as it is supposed to. Once it hits the sloped membrane, the water flows down hill towards the drain and goes out the drain by what we call "weep holes". Weep holes are small passages built into the drain to allow the water to escape the deck mud and eventually go down the drain. Just as it is supposed to! With a sloped membrane, the deck mud may be moist, but it won't be overly saturated and hold water. Now, if your installer put the shower pan membrane flat on the subfloor, when water percolates through the deck mud, it hits the flat membrane and simply sits there. The mud becomes fully saturated. If the bottom edge of the cement board on the walls was covered by deck mud, then the saturated deck mud can wet the wall board, and moisture can slowly wick up the walls, behind the tile. Because it is becoming wet from behind, mold or discoloration can build up BEHIND the glaze. I think one of the nastiest things to do in tiling, or with tile remediation, is to break up and demolish a saturated deck mud shower pan. They can be absolutely nasty. There's primordial ooze in that nasty mud. Anyhow, I tried to give a "nutshell" explanation, my nutshells seem to drag on for a bit. But hopefully this will allow you to better understand a potential issue with your shower. I'm not saying that IS what is wrong, but it's a common issue that presents symptoms similar to the ones you are seeing. Good luck getting it rectified....See MoreK D
7 years agoK D
7 years agotatts
7 years agoqam999
7 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
7 years agoK D
7 years agoK D
7 years agokay kin
7 years agoqam999
7 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
7 years agoHU-261715373
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCarolMartin
3 years agolast modified: 3 years ago
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