No house wrap? HELP
twogirlsbigtrouble
15 years ago
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stinkytiger
15 years agoRelated Discussions
Zip R System Plus House Wrap
Comments (5)Springtime - Thank you for the input. We ended up using a rain screen behind the fiber cement siding. We framed with 2x6 exterior walls so we felt with the blown in cellulose insulation we didn't need the 1" sheeting. 2” is better than 1” which is better than ½” which is better than plain OSB. You can keep increasing the amount of insulation, but at some point the ROI just isn’t there. JDS – The nail guns used to nail into studs (not at the seams) sunk too far into the zip panels. It seems really hard to not have this happen. This punctures the WRB part of the zip system. You could tape each stud, but that seems much more labor intensive then just wrapping up the house a second time. I really like the idea of the zip system, but after going through the installation I question the WRB aspect of it. The taping has to be perfect and I mean no wrinkles, no tears, no water, dust, dirt, mud, sawdust underneath the tape, etc. Probably hand nailed because the nail needs to sit flush and not sink in at all. No nail gun can be adjusted enough to account for the differences in stud hardiness. Seemed simple enough to run some standard house wrap around and not have any concerns or a simple rain shield in our case....See MoreExterior of 3000 sq foot, single-story house with wrap-around porch
Comments (19)Fixation seems like a weird way to describe my determination that something around 3000 square foot is the minimum I believe would provide for my family's needs AND my realization that building larger would cost more. What lazy_gardens is saying not that you should get a house BIGGER, but that you might very well be able to get a SMALLER house that will more than meet all your needs. It's not the square footage of a house that determines whether a house works well for a family but how it's laid out. The house I raised my 2 children in was 3200+ square feet, not including the basement. However the house was so poorly laid out for a family we probably didn't use half the house. The house was 4 bedrooms, living room, dining room, sun room, kitchen, den, playroom, and a room we used as storage (and that room was larger than most people's dining rooms) We spent most of the time in the family room, the kitchen and the bedrooms. When the kids had friends they would then use the sun room to visit. Occasionally we'd use the living room and 2x a year during holidays we'd use the dining room. My ex used the basement as his office. Which proves we didn't need 3200 square feet but needed less space laid out better for how we lived at the time....See MoreTyvek "DrainWrap vs. Tyvek "HomeWrap" with James Hardie Lap Siding
Comments (7)Ditto Worthy and JDS, Best would be 3/8-3/4" strapping with coravent or crafted insect screen at top and bottom. Any flat non-woven housewrap like 15# felt, standard tyvek or typar would be fine in that application if not using a WRB integrated structural sheathing like Huber Zip. If installers aren't comfortable with a true rainscreen strapping, then homeslicker would be next best followed by drainable housewraps. We've used 3d mesh like homeslicker behind shingles but not lap siding as I've read it can become wavy. Good job researching best siding practices. I don't think any siding should be installed flat against structural sheathing with standard housewraps in any climates except very dry. Non-insulated vinyl being an exception as it creates it's own rainscreen. Check out Matt Risinger's video to see a performance experiment between regular tyvek and stuccowrap. Speaking of which, I hope you are including exterior foam or similar performing wall details....See MoreWhich house wrap to make it through a winter
Comments (25)Two issues are being confused here that don't necessarily have the same answer: 1) Temporary protection of the wall over the winter, best achieved, I suggest with loose tarping or a synthetic non-perforated UV resistant housewrap, which may have to be repaired in the spring. 2) Composition of the finished wall. Without actually being topped with stucco, this will not effectively withstand repeated direct wetting over the winter. Even the #30 paper (which is really just what #15 was years ago) is not designed for direct exposure. As for the final composition of that wall, what you're missing is the air gap that can only be provided by a three-dimensional plastic drainage mat. Anything else means a high probability of failure and repeated failure when it's "repaired" by just repeating what was done the first time. See here Martin Holladay's extensive coverage of the best way to build a EIFS wall as determined by building scientists and specialists. (Why anyone bothers anymore with EIFS--as opposed to traditional hardcoat stucco--boggles my mind. But that's another matter.)...See Moreworthy
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