They're all bad choices. Not just due to deterioration from moisture, but UV, even in a relatively northern clime.

Typar claims a six-month exposure. But a study last year shows that housewrap manufacturer claims in general are suspect, as they don't take into account climate. For instance, a wrap that will survive 9 mos. in Toronto will be useless after three mos. in the Florida sun.

Plus there's the effect of wind and how the wrap is affixed to the sheathing. Plastic cap nails and staples are the best connectors.

As a builder, the only time I've left wrap exposed for more than a month, I simply wrapped another layer over the wind-damaged portion.

Tyvek makes a wrap specifically for stucco. However, the UV max exposure is four months.

Are you in the part of northern California where it rains daily for 3 months, or the part where it snows in winter?

I'd get the finished roof on even if you have to hire a helper or two for a day.

As for the walls, assuming the sheathing is typical Exposure 1 rated, I'd be tempted to tarp them and cross my fingers.

Another alternative would be to sheathe in tongue and groove XPS (extruded polystyrene) with taped joints. That way, you could also cut back on the interior insulation if you wanted to.

Liquid applied wraps might have a longer safe exposure. (I couldn't quickly find any ratings in the literature.)

As for the windows, forget housewraps or building paper and instead use any of the custom flashing products that are now available. Be sure to integrate them with any exterior wraps you use.

In that case, consider a synthetic underlayment. A good one is UV resistant for up to six months and will protect the roof and the home beneath from moisture and can be left in place when you install the final roofing.

Yes, and figure out a strategy to keep the rain and/or snow out of openings intended for windows, doors, skylights, etc.

Housewraps may be sexy, but 15# felt is still amazing stuff. I needed to replace siding on a portion of my home and couldn't get to it for nearly a year. The 15# felt installed protected the sheathing and kept the weather out--for a full year. I replaced it before installing siding. I don't think any housewrap would have held up as well.

Most housewraps are UV sensitive as Worthy noted.

If you can't get shingles on the roof, I'd recommend a self-adhesive synthetic felt for the roof.

Yep, the Homeowners Association is gonna love this one...! :-)

6 mil poly might late a couple of months before the UV kills it. Every single thing will be subject to UV degradation though. The new synthetic roofing underpayments are the only thing that might work. But you really need to get that roof on NOW. Even if you do the cheapest roll roofing that exists. It may need to be there a couple of years sound like.

What does your municipality say about the stall in the building process? Are you going to have to re permit? Will they even allow a building process to stop and start? Do you actually own the land outright, or are you paying a mortgage on it? Do you have the proper insurance for having a long term attractive nuisance be unoccupied and unsupervised? Or is there a 10' padlocked chain link all around the building site?

Building papers are a poor way to encase the framing around windows. They're even worse when they are partially exposed to the weather for months, as you're proposing to do. Use the materials and methods mentioned in the previously posted link.

As for sheathing the walls in D paper, even two layers deteriorates to nothing in wet climates under siding and stucco--let alone exposed directly to the weather. That's why Dr. Lstiburek of Building Science Corp. advises not to use it at all. Instead, see the methods mentioned in an earlier post.

Photo

(The engineer's analysis of the totally Code compliant failure depicted and ways to avoid it is really worth reading!)

If your budget is so strapped as not to afford a water and UV resistant substrate on the wall under the eventual stucco, I'd suggest loose tarping used by masons to protect brick and stone walls while they're being set under adverse conditions. Affixing 6mil directly to the walls will trap moisture in the OSB.

A red and white striped loose tarp?

Not reading thread, but:

Tar paper.

i see words.linked, I immediately.assume it's paid advertising links and I tend to skip them.

Very interesting. I link to validate that on factual matters I'm not just talking out of my hat!

In short: synthetic for the roof, peel and stick opening flashings--flashing details depend on whether you're using flanged or unflanged windows--and loose tarping for the walls. (Or, as advised above, cover it all in a circus tent.)

You can put another building wrap over #30 felt paper, if you reeeeeeeeeally want to, but it performs great under stucco. It's a better, higher quality wrap than your class D stuff. It will also last a winter just fine. Class D is cheaper, but you can't leave it out there.

Why make this hard? If you want to make the winter, you've got to upgrade your house wrap.

"class d is out and has. been for a long time. 15lb ok?"

Seeme to me that people told you 15# was ago 2 weeks ago (30# wpould be better in my opinion). Just be prepared to keep an eye on it make sure it stays intact and sound. But I would definitely synthetic underlayment the roof and use the 15# felt for the walls (30# would be better in my opinion).

Two issues are being confused here that don't necessarily have the same answer:

1) Temporary protection of the wall over the winter, best achieved, I suggest with loose tarping or a synthetic non-perforated UV resistant housewrap, which may have to be repaired in the spring.

2) Composition of the finished wall. Without actually being topped with stucco, this will not effectively withstand repeated direct wetting over the winter. Even the #30 paper (which is really just what #15 was years ago) is not designed for direct exposure.

As for the final composition of that wall, what you're missing is the air gap that can only be provided by a three-dimensional plastic drainage mat. Anything else means a high probability of failure and repeated failure when it's "repaired" by just repeating what was done the first time.

See here Martin Holladay's extensive coverage of the best way to build a EIFS wall as determined by building scientists and specialists.

(Why anyone bothers anymore with EIFS--as opposed to traditional hardcoat stucco--boggles my mind. But that's another matter.)