Help! Any reason not to use engineered wood floors
oceanedge73
7 years ago
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Cancork Floor Inc.
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Has Anyone Used Royal Oak Engineered Wood Flooring?`
Comments (72)Yes, they had to sand it lightly and then carefully remove all dust and residue. I don’t get why you are buying this flooring to begin with though. I would never have bought it if I had known how poor the finish was and that the company didn’t care or stand behind their product. In the end, we spent much more than we would have if we had just bought a better product. There are quality wood and engineered floors out there. Why don’t you give them your business? I posted my experinece so that people could learn from my mistakes, not repeat them. 🙁...See MoreEngineered Wood Floors : Any Advice?
Comments (5)We put in an engineered hickory floor by Hallmark Hardwoods and I cannot say enough good things about this floor. It takes a lot of abuse as it is at all the entries, the kitchen, the dining, the living room, etc.... We live in WI, which has harsh weather and sloppy winters. All kinds of stuff is dragged onto this floor. Add on my three sons who throw and drop and drag things all over the place, along with their friends. The installer said he was impressed that nearly every board was good, with few warped or damaged boards and plenty of long ones. Eighteen months into owning this floor and it looks better than ever. Specs say I can sand it up to three times. We compromised on this floor because it had the thickest layer of wood and the best flooring store in the area said they will not sell wide planks in solid hickory....See MoreANy experience with engineered wood floors from home depot?
Comments (15)The Home-Depot stuff normally has a 2mm wear layer (that's the very top layer of wood that is "oak" everything else below that is "something else"). The finish is a 7 layer Aluminum Oxide (AO) Urethane. That means the chances of refinishing this are slim to nil. Both the wear layer (3mm is the MINIMUM requirement to get a sand/refinish out of it) and the AO finish will make this wood near-impossible to "fix up" at a later date. At $1.96/sf, the install will be more expensive than the wood. And the subfloor preparation will be more expensive than the wood. Carpets hide the WORST POSSIBLE subfloors. Hardwood floors need real plywood for installation. Carpet RARELY has "real" plywood underneath it. So you will need to UPGRADE your subfloor. That costs money. Most types of OSB are not a good "fit" for sitting underneath hardwood so if it is there, you will need to upgrade. And fibre board (often seen underneath carpet) is a No-No for hardwood - upgrade/rip out will be needed. As you can see, to get these hardwoods in place, you will need to do some upgrades to the subfloor before putting it down. The other thing you may want to be aware of is the "average life expectancy" of a floor in a rental property = 7 years. Your subfloor + labor costs could run as high as $6 - $8/sf. That is 4 TIMES the amount the flooring costs. That's high. We normally like to see labor+prep prices that are only 1-2 times the price (same price as the floor or a snick more). Ask yourself whether or not the property will bring in the price to cover the higher than usual subfloor costs. And whether or not that seems like a good idea for a floor that may only last 7 years regardless of the subfloor prep....See MoreEngineered wood - reasonable/expected costs for mid-grade?
Comments (10)SJ McCarthy - thanks for the response. To clarify, those quotes are not for the cost of the wood. They are for materials and installation - everything. I am not considering any products where the flooring cost alone is above $8/sf. That would mean a total cost that would be far outside of my budget. Note that I do not need an engineered wood that can be resanded three times, as I am never going to do that. This is my permanent home - I don't care about resale-specific issues. It is just me living here, no pets. Of course my BF is here often, and my son stays with me when he visits, but traffic in my home is very light. The Harris product that I am considering is actually my top choice as far as appearance (Hickory Roaring Fork). It is by far the most appealing to me, over everything else I have seen. It is not a wire-brushed finish (which adds a lot to the cost) but since I don't love that look, it works for me. (I also cannot stand the hand-scraped, or distressed barnwood-looking stuff.) Its cost, that I am being quoted, is between 4.70 and 5.00 a square. I could beat that price online, but that opens up more issues for me. As far as "NWFA certified installers", there are none within 50 miles from me. So for my purposes, using an authorized flooring retailer/installer would seem to give me more protection as far as warranty, would it not? Totally agree with what you are saying on the LVT - I am fairly certain I'm going with an Armstrong Vivero glue-down LVT - and it is a stone-look - not wood. Even the finished install cost of that winds up being around $7 a sf. Not cheap. I have thought about doing LVT everywhere, but frankly, I have not found any that has a look that I would want in those other areas, It has actually taken me many many hours (which means actual months!) of searching to finally find 2 or 3 engineered woods that I actually like, that would not empty my bank account. It's a curse being this picky. :-(...See Moreoceanedge73
7 years agoCancork Floor Inc.
7 years agojosephene_gw
7 years agoLindsy
7 years agoUptown Floors
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoCancork Floor Inc.
7 years agoUser
7 years ago
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