No, salt, my suggestion was good. The drawing that was posted here, or a variation of it, is what you would have found in the book. I do not have a program for doing the drawing online, so suggesting the book was a way of getting the same information for you. Plus the book in hand is not dependent on the willingness and ability of others to post the needed diagram for you. The book is available at your schedule.

What do things look like in the other switch box in the closet you are talking about? Harder to see is what wires enter and exit the box at the light. The simplest set-up for a home owner to deal with will have a single gang box with one non-dimming 3-way switch at each location, and just one (black/white/bare ground) cable and one (black/red/white/bare ground) cable in the box with the switch. The cable that contains the red should go from box to box and makes up the travelers. The black and red ends of this cable should land on the screws on the switch that are the same color as each other (usually not black). The other cable either comes from the panel (the feed in) or goes to the light (the feed out). Put the black from this cable under the unique colored screw (usually black and sometimes called the common or point). Splice together all of the white wires and use the bare ground to ground each other and the switch and the box if it's metal. If you have a different wire arrangement than this, (and there are several that are both different and correct), and if you have only a small amount of experience then you would probably be well served by hiring a pro. I personally can't recall ever seeing or installing a 3-way in a walk-in closet and the black conductor landed on the ground screw makes me think that you will end up hiring someone to sort this out. Good luck.

Wire it as if you were using standard switches... power in to one box, carry the neutral via the /3 conductor to the second box, switched power to lights in the second box.

Mike is right, the biggest question (given this is older wiring) is if there is any NEUTRAL in the box. Most of the fancier dimmers require a neutral connection. The good news is that while the older code doesn't mandate it you've likely got one of two situations: 1. The incoming power feed enters this box first and hence there is a neutral there. 2. The feed to the receptacle is a switch loop. In this case rather than just connecting the two wires that went to the former receptacle switch, you go to the receptacle and change it from a switch loop to an always on receptacle and feed the power (at least the neutral) via the former switch loop line. Technically, the changing this to an unswitched outlet may violate the code. A switched outlet is exempt from the small-appliance circuit requirements (the code assumes you're only going to use it for lamps). However, this is one I can't get too worked up over but if you have an inspector he might gripe about it (you may indeed then have to abandon that receptacle if it's not otherwise required).