Ok thank you for your suggestions!! I really appreciate it. I didn't think about this before, but should I pick them according to their height too? Say if I have 3-4 lined up like Bill's front yard... I would like to pick the ones that have similar height. Or is that a moot point since I can always prune them to the desired height? I'm liking the idea of lining them up to separate the property line on the right side... then put the rocks like Bill did. That's very pretty. But then what do I do w/ the rest of the space next to it? Can I plant other flowers like roses, hydrangeas or something? I really don't want to add grass in that small space. I'll try to upload a diagram so you can see it. Any suggestions for some companion flowering plants near my plumies? Thanks!

Valencia Pride if you can get one.... But the Manila mango is propagated by LaVerne nursery near you and is a consistent hardy producer. LaVerne knows what will work in your climate Check this out--->>>> http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/azgard/msg0208015314470.html "Thanks for your inquiry. The Mango you purchased from Lowes is a seedling, a manilla seedling, fruit weighing approximately 7-12 ounces. This seedling will produce outstanding fruit. When you do get flowers, limit the number of fruit after pollination to 2-5 and be prepared to prop-up or support the fruit as they are forming and getting larger. Water deeply when watering and fertilize with a fruit tree type fertilizer once a month in the growing season (our label says longer between fertilizing) and your tree will perform. Need anything else, please let us know, Richard Wilson �" CEO La Verne Nursery Inc." Here is a link that might be useful: Valencia Pride

I think your best suggestion so far was the Strawberry Tree (Arbutus unedo); it is native to Western Europe (Spain, Portugal, France, etc.. It is a broadleaf evergreen and does flower and produce edible fruit. Even is grown in Ireland (known for its chilly summer climate)! I fell in love with species just reading about it so had to order one (from Portugal) if only to grow it as a containerized plant. I am sure there are other choices out there but you have to research it a bit. P.S., Atlas Cedar?! Another tree species I do really LOVE..., but every block in my neighborhood in NJ has one (weeping, non-weeping,...). I think there are more growing in NJ than in their native Atlas Mountains of Morocco! LOL. PS2., Logan, there are chill tolerant palms ALL OVER SF, no big deal, and no need to feature it where center stage where space is limited. (BTW, I have a Windmill in my own yard.)

Hi Steph, let me start off with some good background information for you: To me it sounds like your primary peach tree is a multi-budded tree. This means that they grafted two or more different varieties onto one tree (i love these for the home garden as it gives you variety and will help extend the harvest season without taking up a lot of space). There are two main kinds of peaches, yellow flesh and white flesh. In the US, yellow flesh is the most popular, however, in Asia, the white flesh varieties are preferred. Where i live you can't get a good peach in the supermarket regardless of it being white or yellow fleshed, but i find, on average, white fleshed are sweeter, but yellow fleshed are more flavorful. Another breakdown for all stone fruit (peaches, cherries, plums, apricots, etc), is how the pit is connected to the fruit. You have freestone varieties where the pit comes free of the flesh with no effort, clingstone varieties (like you describled the white peaches to be) where the flesh really holds to the pit, and semi-freestone or semi-clingstone for the varieties where the flesh holds to the pit, but will separate with just a little work. Now to your specific trees, without pictures, i have two guesses as to what could be going on. The white fleshed peaches could be very late season peaches and needed another few weeks to finish ripening, or the trees noticed a difference in available water during the ripening season and in order to protect the tree, aborted ripening the fruit. For the first possibility, it would just be a matter of waiting another week or so. if birds start pecking at the fruit, that is usually a good indicator that it is ripe and ready (of course you may lose a few fruits to the birds this way as well). But if it is the second possibility, you will want to make sure that you keep up with watering the trees throughout the hot months. A first defense to drought for peach trees is to abort the fruit if water becomes sparse for a few days. Finally, you mentioned peach leaf curl, i strongly recommend that once the leaves fall, you spray your trees with a copper fungicide (you can get certified organic versions of this if you prefer). This will help prevent the peach leaf curl from coming back. you should only need one application, and you will not want to keep applying year after year, as too much can build up in the soil (after years of using) and kill earthworms. A sulfur based Fungicide can also be used in the Spring before the buds on the tree open.