You're probably right Hman, at least it makes logical sense that small operations wouldn't have near the populations of disease organisms for resistant pests to arise. So as a practical matter there doesn't seem to be much of a worry, which is probably why homeowner formulations of things like propiconazole aren't as restrictive about rotation. However, to quote from a distinguished legal philosopher, "the label is the law." Yes, I'm only quoting the first part of said philosopher's proverb. The second part is not as relevant to this discussion, I think. Additionally, it is speculated the second part of the philosopher's dictum may be partially motivated by the admission on the philosopher's part, in a certain discussion regarding Imidan, getting ones fruit takes precedence over submission to bureaucrats. Therefore, as a good citizen, will cling to the philosopher's proverb, do my best to heed the law, and will even fear the bureaucrats.

Ken, The problem with this particular plum tree is twofold: (1) it belongs to the co-op, not to me, and I don't think they'd take kindly to me cutting it down and (2) it's right in the middle of my HOSTA GARDEN, providing the main shade for it. The hosta garden gets the late afternoon sun, it's an eastern exposure, and the oak trees behind the plum tree (oak trees are in the strip between the sidewalk and the street) gradually shade over everything. Various neighbors have told me that, when they inquired about having a dead or dying tree replaced, they were told that the tree would not be replaced. So, if this plum tree up and dies, I suppose they will saw it down and leave my hosta garden to be shaded only by the oak trees in the late afternoon. I wonder how that will affect my hosta garden...

i find it hard to believe that it grew that much this year only ... lol ... next time.. use biodegradable twine.. like all cotton .. so it will rot and break while you are forgetting about it .... if you get the impulse to do this again ... lol i don't think you/we can foresee, if the above part will live .... or how well .... if you are the experimental type.. leave it a report back yearly .. but.. if it were me ... i would remove the whole stub ... at the trunk .. release the left side.. and train it up to replace this.. and start working on a new lateral for the lower left [the tree will so this itself] ... do NOT FORCE it upright.. do it in monthly stages.. or you might crack the new one .... honestly .. you didn't really think it was going to be that easy.. did you .. lol ... gardening.. and this type of tree torture is an ART ... you just keep tinkering with it.. for years to come.. you learned a valuable lesson early ... don't worry about it ... consider it your learning curve ... good luck ken PS: frankly .. next time you break a branch .. just cut it off ... what you accomplished .. was wasting a season .. that could have been used in regenerating a new branch .... IMHO .... broken branches are better amputated... they do not heal like bones .... interior wood is technically dead.. and will never heal .... maybe on a very young tree.. new wood can envelop it... but the break is still under there ... and sooner or later.. it will fail again .... though i am sure.. others will claim they have accomplished it ...

Agree with rayrose...no pruning this year. The yellowing could have also come from a waterlogged plant depriving from oxygen, ..loosening up the dirt a bit and re potting in sandy soil will help, [fruit trees don't like wet feet]....which means don't plant where the ground is waterlogged, causing roots to die off. When planted in the ground and watered in,..just leave it alone for a couple of weeks,..if soil remains moist, don't water again.