I used 4 similar sconces (Restoration Hardware Double Sutton) in my master and replaced the included incandescent light bulbs with round 40W LED bulbs because I was worried about heat and electricity usage. I'm very happy with the effect - cool, probably brighter though not as warm a glow. My contractor thought 3 sconces would have been enough, but I am happy with 4. I put in 2 75W LED can lights over the vanity, which though bright, cast facial shadows since they were located too far from the wall (10" vs. 4"- 6") - look a little ghoulish at 60+ years of age. We had above mirror makeup lights which I loved, so I would recommend horizontal above mirror lights for your situation. My RH medicine cabinets have 2 halogen lights, so sometimes I use just them to put on makeup, and they do run a little hot. I just don't put on makeup that often. And there is 1 general LED can light with diffuser in the vanity area. This post was edited by gildee on Sun, Sep 7, 14 at 16:11

Thanks aidan_m, hopefully that will be helpful to others! As it turns out, I had emailed the builder of the deck pictured above (Delta Decks (http://www.deltadecks.com/), a Canadian company), and they were kind enough to email me back last week. The lights pictured are made by In-Lite, and are available in line and low voltage. They are shown above with the optional LED light kit. See http://www.in-lite.com/us/f120_product-type/wall.html They are available for purchase from http://store.deckstoronto.com/ They get quite pricey when you factor in Canada tax, international shipping, and the LED light kits (~$600 USD for three), but it's worth it for me. Hope this helps the next person.

Xedos wrote : '' All of these products you're using fall into the cheaper and faster catagory ! Otherwise you would be doing mud walls for all of your showers because it is the type of wall that has the least deflection you fellas are so concerned about. I mean really, are you guys are too young to remember that your beloved cement board was the cheaper faster LIGHTER alternative to mud waaaaay back when. And your forbearers were using the same arguments about it: it bends really easy, it's cheap- "ya don't want that crap" , they sell it at Home Depot and nothing hood comes from there, and my favorite - it wicks up moisture from the mud pan ! My take is all this stuff is just another product and will work well enough to keep a shower waterproof and standing for 20 years just like cement board was decades ago. Now, some of these systems aren't for everybody - especially contractors looking to grow a business , because some of these products aren't available in all markets, require techniques that some setters don't like to use , are more $$$, and other things that hinder standardization and impede growth. Reminds me of a used car salesman tang bad mouths a particular brand of car or truck because he doesn't have one to sell which ultimately affects his wallet. '' End quote . Looks to me that the applications for CBU's , including exterior ones in combination with the most used in commercial applications , are what makes a reliable product . Strength , rigidity , water resistance , floor applications , to name few , are just some of the qualities that falls into the reliable category . It is funny to call us young and not really making the difference in between a mud wall and a CBU . May I remind you that bad craftsmanship was NOT intended -- out of plumb , level or square -- by using CBU's , but removing an additional weight of the wood structure , which most residential houses are build from in nowadays . Some tile mechanics and geographical areas are still using it , but it is looking like it is a dying art . Similar can be said for the demand of mud floors , which fall into the same category with the mud walls -- dying art --. There are other products out there which can be used , instead of the KB . LUXX Elements is another product which can considered as reliable substrate backer for a wall application in tiled surfaces , but some of us do not consider it . It doesn't mean that we don't pay attention to new evolving technologies , materials and trends of the industry . An example of the Luxx BB And after 4 days of submerging it At last , none of us were talking about a bad mouth -- so easy to hide behind an anonymous username -- , but if we have different opinions at least you could respect that . This thread is about proper procedures to be applied in the field and it looks like even with a plethora of recommendations from mfg , the opposite is still happening . Nothing to do with old vs. young technology , application , ways of doing , tools , materials , etc.

Thanks, Justine. My original plan was to ikea hack it using a bookshelf and small dresser. I wasn't happy with the quality of the pieces from Ikea that would fit the space, so I found two relatively inexpensive vanities at the unfinished furniture store. Then we met the most fantastic cabinet maker. He was one of the subs on our restoration and I spent a lot of time with him helping paint, etc. We got to be friends and since he doesn't have a lot of work right now, he had time to build the bookcases for the top of the vanities to make it look built in. He also added the baseboard to the bottom of the vanities and levelled them. He said it wasn't hard, but that our house is old and wonky so it took a bit of time to get things straight on the walls. Glad I didn't try to do it myself. Couple of things I'd change: -I'd have had him build the bases too. I bought them before I knew I'd luck out and get someone so good (and inexpensive). He said he could have built me the bases for much less than I paid. -I might have done the header at the top smaller (not sure if this is what it is called? the flat part above the top shelf). We went back and forth about it. I don't mind it, but it does seem a bit large. ETA- I'd also have gone with all drawers if I'd had him make them (good call on your part). I use the top drawer all the time, but the cab below is empty. Might look into getting some sort of pullout unit. I was worried I'd feel claustrophobic, but the depth of the shelves is 12" and it's just perfect. I like that the base extends out so I can rest a book or my alarm clock there. Oly, my DH does the same thing! I was so worried about hanging it too low and having it burn the top of my head, that I think I may have placed it too high. Unfortunately, there are 2 big screw holes there now so it aint goin nohwere :)