I read this in my Rose Society's Newsletter: This spring I had to prune many of my older hybrid teas to the ground. Some of the young roses on ‘Fortuniana’ I left longer and just removed the really bad-looking canes. My logic for this is that ‘Fortuniana’-rootstock roses grow best when left tall and it might be too much of a shock to remove all of the old canes. Right now they are all putting out new growth, much of which is probably “fool’s gold”. Canes that are damaged and not outright killed by winter will always put out new growth. The problem is that this growth will likely be weak with lots of blind shoots and poor blooms if they bloom at all. But on these younger roses, I am hoping that the leaves will at least make enough food to give the bud union some extra “oomph” to pump out a few basal breaks before May. If they do, then I will prune out the weak, damaged canes so that all of the rose’s energy goes into the new strong canes. course this assumes that the bud union is healthy enough to do just that....no sure thing at all after the winter of 2013-14. How can you tell if the cane is just damaged and not killed? After the dramatic plunge from temperatures in the mid-70s in late December to near zero in early January, canes that were killed turned black, meaning that all the cell walls burst inside the cane and in the cambium layer. Some “good as dead canes” also will look shriveled and desiccated. Damaged canes will have mushy brown pith or dried-out, shrunken pith with gaps in the center of the cane. Canes that have only slightly brown centers can go either way and might be worth keeping. The most deceptive canes to diagnose are ones that are bright green, bright red, or a combination of healthy-looking green and red. These canes are often very large and beautiful looking. They formed late in the year when weather conditions were ideal for rapid growth. Sadly though, the reason they look so young and healthy is they did not have enough time to harden off before the severe freezes that occurred. Blame the warm December for that. These canes have “zero” chance of surviving and must be cut off at the bud union. When you cut into one, the center will have nothing but brown “gunk”. There is nothing there worth saving. This is the reason we do not fertilize after early September. We do not want to encourage these “monster basal breaks” to start growing. Growing conditions are perfect enough in late September and October without any extra help from over- enthusiastic rosarians. I am even considering changing my own practice on this matter to not fertilizing with a high nitrogen fertilizer after the third week of August. We always thought that the excess nitrogen from an early September fertilizing would be long gone by the time October rolled around. Maybe it really isn’t! I used to start planting roses for clients in late March. But with freezes in March and early April, I have pushed back my planting date to around April 10. On that day, I can look at the forecast for the next week to see if a severe freeze is likely. If not, I start planting. Of course if we see a severe freeze on May 1, that might be the signal to stop growing roses altogether. Let’s hope we don’t ever find out. Okay, so now it is early May and we have a good idea which roses are going to recover and which ones are goners. What about ones that you are not really sure about? Do you dig them up or give them more time. Here are my rules of thumb for that... If it is a rose I was already considering getting rid of, then bring out Mr. Shovel. If there are no new basal breaks and the rest of bush does not look good, feed Mr. Shovel. If the rose did not do well last year, let Mr. Shovel feast. If there is at least one decent new basal break or low lateral cane and I like the rose, I give it more time. If the rose is one that is hard to find and I like it, I will give it a bit more time even if it has not put out any strong new growth yet. If the rose is a large mature rose which has done very well in the past and it is a favorite of mine, I will keep it and give it the entire summer even if canes continue to die back in June. Why keep this one? A few years ago there was a big Thanksgiving freeze. I protected my roses well and thought they all survived the winter in good shape. Come the following spring, big canes on my best bushes started dying back. This continued into July, so I shovel-pruned and planted new bushes there the following year. That fall there were two roses, ‘Pat’s Choice’ and ‘Affirm’, that I never got around to digging up because they had large bud unions on ‘Fortuniana’. They still looked terrible and I did not want to go to the trouble of winter mulching bushes that I was going to dig up anyway. So I just decided to let winter finish them off and I would replace them next year when I had more energy for such things. To my surprise, these two roses that I had left for dead put out dozens of strong basal breaks. By summer, these bushes had recovered every bit to their former size and continued to be two of the biggest bushes in my garden. Now they have suffered heavy damage again and I have cut them back again. I am anxious to see how they recover this time. If you have decided to let a badly damaged bush recover, here is what you do. First, keep it well-watered. Water every day if possible in hot weather. Fertilize with your favorite liquid fertilizer like Mills Easy Feed, Peter’s 20-20-20, MiracleGro, etc., according to directions. Pinch off all flower buds as soon as they appear. Do not let them bloom at all! This will divert all the energy into making new canes, not mediocre blooms. It is imperative that you spray religiously. You need every last healthy green leaf to make food for the recovering rose bush. Pick off Japanese Beetles as you see them. You will not have many because they are drawn first and foremost to the blooms. And there will be no blooms on these recovering roses...right? Do not spray for beetles...period! Over-spraying for beetles will encourage spider mites and your precious recovering rose does not need to deal with mites. If you do get mites, wash them off the undersides of leaves as soon as you see them. Use a water wand to wash each leaf. Do this for a few days in a row. This will also double as your daily watering for the roses as well. Stop regular fertilizing by late August, although you can use superphosphate, root-stimulator, or even Mills Magic Rose Mix (the dry stuff) as they have very little nitrogen. This you can do into early September. Just remember, use nothing with more than 5% nitrogen. If you are lucky, by September, the bushes will have recovered enough that you can let them bloom and pick some blooms for the house. If not, they may need more time. One final option for your freeze-damaged rose is to dig it up, put it in a five or seven gallon pot, and baby it with lots of water and fertilizer. Bring it into a warm garage or greenhouse in the winter and presto...you will likely have a nice looking rose to plant next spring. I do this all the time with clients’ roses that I remove to make way for the new roses that they want, even if the roses are in ghastly shape that only a mother could love. I pot them up in five-gallon nursery pots, using a nice Fafard potting mix. I put them in a half sun/shade area of my yard so they will not burn up in the hot summer sun and then take care of them for the rest of the year. In late fall, I move them into my greenhouse and by spring, quite often I have nice looking roses that can be planted into someone’s garden. This does entail a bit of extra work though, so be sure you want to go to the effort before you start. The final thing you will need to do is to provide winter protection for the recovering rose. I have started using the Nutra mulch from Green Bros. Earthworks for my winter protection. It is a nice brown fine-textured light and fluffy mix that is easily applied. It also will help feed your roses as it breaks down the following spring and summer. Mound it up high around the canes and pray we do not have a repeat performance of this year’s disastrous winter. My final note on rose damage deals with what to do with tree roses. To my pleasant surprise, the past three winters have not been too hard on my tree roses, even considering how cold my garden is compared to much of metro Atlanta inside the perimeter. My tree roses include ‘Lasting Love’, ‘Julia Child’, ‘Moonstone’, and ‘Sedona’. There was virtually no damage at all on them since 2010. This is surprising since the bud union is three feet above ground and totally exposed. There is really not much I could have done to protect them this year with the exception of draping frost cloth over them and putting a small heater underneath the frost cloth. In northern gardens, rosarians sometimes loosen one side of the roots and lay the entire tree rose on its side and cover it with mulch or soil. I will say this now...that is just too much work and it would not have helped this winter! If you had actually tried this, you would also have had the unpleasant surprise of seeing new shoots growing vertically from the canes that were lying sideways at ground level. This would have been bizarre indeed! Gardens in the north don’t have three weeks of temperatures in the 60s and 70s to deal with, so they do not get shoots growing straight up. But we do! That is all for now. May your roses have survived winter’s ravages and thrive throughout the upcoming summer months. From the April 2014 issue of The Phoenix, newsletter of the Greater Atlanta Rose Society, Bobbie Reed, Editor.

Well, the roof rats may, indeed, be the cause of the demise of your tree. I see a large amount of bark chewed off, which means the tree may have been girdled, thus cutting off the supply of nutrients traveling up to the tree's canopy. I agree with Mike, here (citrange). It could also be due to Phytophthora infection which can cause foot-rot as Mike mentions, as well as traveling up the tree (the odd discoloration on the branches and bark). Whatever caused the bark damage at the base of the tree (roof rats, a weed whacker, sprinklers hitting the trunk of the tree and the bark simply rotted and fell off) are most likely the cause of the death of this tree. The other concern I would have is how close the tree is to your house and roofline. You are providing those roof rats a clear path to your roof, and thus your attic. Which is where they love to live. We have a serious issue with the Norway rat (also known as roof rats or citrus rats). I would make sure you remove all trees or vegetation from the sides of your house the provide a "ladder" to your roof. Plus, the roots aren't good for your house's foundation and plumbing, either. Set traps or bait stations around your house to reduce the rat population (they carry disease as well as damaging your fruits, and what you're seeing with your lemons is clearly rat damage. They eat the sweeter skins of your sour citrus, and will hollow out the insides of your sweet citrus - classic rat damage). They are unhealthy pests, and you need to get rid of them. Bait stations can be set with non-kill through bait, so you do not kill birds of prey, just know that there is not antidote for that type of poison, so don't let dogs or small children get into the bait stations. Patty S.

Gary, the plants had been living outside for weeks before I planted them, so they were fully hardened-off. They had been planted just a day or two before disappearing, so I think they were just watered at planting, and there wasn't really over- or under-watering going on. There are bluejays around, but would one pick off the name-tag before flying off with the plant? I am beginning to focus on the pillbugs, as all tomato leaves close to the ground are getting seriously scalloped by bug-nibbles. I did remove any leaves that touched the ground, but watering/rain makes the other leaves sag. I removed more leaves today. I wonder if getting some grass clippings in there would distract those bugs from my babies? I think it is possible that I damaged the stem of the first plant to disappear, since it was pretty thin and I was wearing gloves. When I checked that spot a couple of days ago, the remaining stem/root had disappeared, too! I haven't lost any more plants since then, although the mysterious leaf-withering continues on some plants. I swear some plants have doubled in size since I planted them a week ago!

You didn't cite any specifics about the range (brand, model & serial numbers), whether the burner controls are analog/rotary and just the oven operates via an electronic panel, or if the whole thing is via an electronic panel. Confirm the oven and all burners are turned OFF on the stove (any part of it controlled by electronics will be off after a power failure). Flip the breakers fully toward Off to reset them, then back to On. Turning them On after a trip without fully-Off first to reset, typically they won't "stick" at On. If they immediately trip again / won't stay at On, or trip again when the oven or a burner is turned on, then obviously there's a further problem somewhere that needs investigation.