New Bermuda ruined by weeds! Help!
Crystal Trail
7 years ago
last modified: 7 years ago
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reeljake
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Help weed in Bermuda lawn
Comments (47)No thoughts on that from me. If you think organics is pricy and time consuming, then you are reading the wrong guidance. I do it because I am cheap and lazy. Oh and it works great!! You may have seen my favorite alfalfa picture but here it is again... Most people seem to think organic fertilizer costs 10x more than chemical fertilizer. The cost for Scott's fertilizer is about $2.50 per 1,000 square feet. For alfalfa pellets, at an application rate of 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet and a cost of $12.50 per bag, that comes to $5.00 per 1,000 square feet. So the cost is really in the same ballpark either way. With chemicals many people make mistakes which kills all or parts of the lawn. You almost can't make a mistake like that with bermuda, but it happens with other lawns. People always wonder if they fertilize one day and it rains heavily the next, do they need to fertilize again?? With organic the answer is always, "no." With chemicals, who knows? You probably do, but do you want to risk overdosing? With a chemical only approach, eventually you will exhaust the microbes in the soil and you will get on what we call a see-saw. You will add more and more fertilizer trying to get results and the grass will actually perform worse. ...aaaaaannnnd then it finally greens and thickens up. That never happens with organics. If you are not willing to go all the way into an organic program, I would highly recommend at least one dose a year of at least 1/2 rate of 10 pounds per 1,000 square feet. That is the same cost as the chemical. You can apply at the same time as the chemical if you like. The reason would be to keep your soil microbes from becoming exhausted. They need food. How often they need the food and under what circumstances we don't really know, but once a year is a good start....See Morenew bermuda sod help
Comments (10)Lilman I looked over your photos, not uncommon what you are experiencing, not is it as bad as you think. What you see is somewhat normal. The tan or dormant grass is drought dormancy, meaning the grass has gone dormant to protect itself from being too dry. It is too dry because it has no roots to speak of to pull water up from the sub soil, and because you have not been keeping it watered enough for the local conditions. If it has been rather warm and windy will suk the moisture right out of the sod even though you have been watering lightly twice a day. Up the water as it is almost impossible to over water new Bermuda sod. You may have to water lightly 4 to 6 times a day. What I suggest is give it a good thorough soaking asap so as to make the ground a bit on the soggy side, then water enough each day to keep the sod good and moist without any standing water. Then when it greens up apply a good balanced fertilizer like 15-10-5 or even some ole fashion 10-20-10 to accelerate root development and start weening off the water. Just be patient and it will be nice thick and green in a couple short weeks. As long as the grass is tan or straw colored you still have live grass. Black or grey is dead....See MoreNeed help with my new bermuda lawn!
Comments (17)I should be more detailed about the cut height progression... If you try to work down to 1 inch this year, you're a bit late & you'll have to use the 2 steps back, 1 step forward method, which is not as easy as it sounds, especially while in a weed fight. It'll be easier next year & you won't have to live with cheetah print lawn. To do so next spring, you'll want to do a proper scalping as soon as temps are done freezing for the year to remove this year's lawn. That's your mowers lowest setting, probably about an inch for most rotary machines. You'll be at that setting for 1 week, and you should be able to see dirt below without trying during this time. This forces the stolons to start making green leaves at dirt level. Fertilize after scalping, then bump up to the second notch for the next mowing to get back your "green top" & keep it there until the cheetah print look starts to show (3 or 4 weeks). When the stems begin to show through & the cheetah effect starts, iron will help to delay this by a week or so if you have a special occasion. One more notch will always produce more green on top, but it's a balancing act to avoid 3 inch "leggy" Bermuda--If you let it get too high too early, you'll be stuck there for the season. You're already stuck for this season in my opinion, taking off too much green right now will reduce photosynthesis, which won't help your cause. Scalping can be done anytime in the growing season once healthy, to reset the height, but it's a big job so I only do it once at the beginning of the season. Basically the Bermuda grows like miniature trees. There's the roots, then a crown area of rhizomes & stolons at dirt level, then the brown stem which is the area you control via cut height, then a green top on each stem. Get it right & all your little trees are the same height at the same time & you get a nice consistent green lawn. Now my fingers hurt!...See MoreBermuda Not Green Yet - Over run by weeds HELP!
Comments (17)Fertilize after the lawn has been mowed for the second time. Waiting ensures you have active roots to take up the fertilizer. Watering: Deep and infrequent is the mantra for watering. This is for all turf grass all over the place. Deep means 1 inch all at one time. Put some cat food or tuna cans around the yard, and time how long it takes your sprinkler(s) to fill all the cans. Memorize that time. That will be the time you water from now on. My hose, sprinkler and water pressure takes 8 full hours to fill the cans. Your time will likely be less. I like gentle watering. As for watering frequency, that depends on the daytime air temperature. With temps in the 90s, deep water once per week. With temps in the 80s, deep water once every 2 weeks. With temps in the 70s, deep water once every 3 weeks. With temps below 70, deep water once a month. Note that you have to keep up with quickly changing temps in the spring and fall. This deep and infrequent schedule works in Phoenix and in Vermont, so it should work for you. The reason for deep and infrequent is to grow deeper, more drought resistant roots and to allow the soil to dry completely at the surface for several days before watering again. If it rains, reset your calendar to account for the rainfall....See Morereeljake
7 years agoUser
7 years agoreeljake
7 years agokrnuttle
7 years agoCrystal Trail
7 years agoCrystal Trail
7 years agolast modified: 7 years agoUser
7 years agoreeljake
7 years agoCrystal Trail
7 years agoreeljake
7 years ago
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