Hi - Just wanted to post an update to share my results of using Cabinet Coat on an oak dresser. After using the Timbermate grain filler (which I really liked and was inexpensive), I sanded super super smooth, primed again and then started adding thin coats of Cabinet Coat. At this point, I was sure my surface was pretty perfect and thought finishing up the top coats would be smooth sailing. I researched a lot on the technique and thought I was doing everything right. For the life of me, I could not get the "sprayed on" look. I tried rolling the top of the dresser with various Wooster high quality "no shed" brushes. Unfortunately, they all shed. I tried using only a Chinex brush...and got brush strokes (spoke to soon before). I tried heating the room, heating the paint, different techniques, etc and could just not get it to look sprayed. I finally settled on using a quality foam roller, which left a subtle stipple effect, but I figured that was better than brush strokes since at least the "pattern" is uniform. Now, I will admit, the finished product does look really good and from a short distance looks perfect. I also like the finish and hardness of the paint. But up close it definitely is not a sprayed on finish. I spent A LOT of time trying to get the results I was going for...way way more time than it should ever take to paint a dresser! Ultimately, I'm happy with the result, but felt the Cabinet Coat fell short of the hype. Admittedly, maybe I never got my technique right. But, now I'm wondering...is it really possible to get a true sprayed on look without a sprayer or are my expectations too high? If anyone who uses Cabinet Coat could post a video of their technique, that could be really helpful!!

And a filler and end panel and blocking to the left of the DW to support the counter. The cabinet to the right needs an extended stile or filler if against a wall. And needs to have a finished end panel if exposed to the room. If this is an island, you've got to account for the plumbing and pony wall to the rear and how to finish that off. If this is in a wall alcove, I'd just make the whole run deeper and skip the posts. They add a LOT of expense and take away usable space.

Deb, I feel for your situation! It might make you feel better to know that, in my experience anyway, counter depth fridges are much easier to organize than full depth. Even with fewer cubic feet, you may feel like you have much more fridge. Especially if you get one with flat shelves straight across (not divided in the middle, which to me compromises usable space terribly). In my last house, I "downsized" from a huge french door fridge to a smaller Fisher Paykel, my first counter depth, and it felt so much bigger despite a significant loss of cubic feet. If I were in your shoes, I would not be too committed to the 22 cubic foot minimum. Find some options that fit your exterior dimensions then take a look in person. A smaller fridge that has the interior design that works for you will be a lot more useful than a big fridge with a poor design. (Also, running a water line is in many cases very easy. However, water and ice dispensers eat up interior space.)

Are these custom cabinets? If so, you shouldn't need to split them in two. Anyway, can you split the length into thirds? Three doors, with two of them sharing a cabinet. As far as having two cabinets of different sizes, it really depends on cabinet style. A traditional style like you pictured would look better with same size doors but with continuous grain veneered slabs it won't make a difference. Will the microwave remain viewable or does it get hidden too?