Calathea leaves dying with brown spots
jake mccann
7 years ago
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jake mccann
7 years agoRelated Discussions
Roses- Brown leaves / dying
Comments (13)It's true that pine needles do not create acidic soil. However, when I was doing some research about the alleopathic properties of pine trees, I found that not all pine trees or all parts of pine trees have alleopathic properties. In my research, I found that the pine needles of some pines release an acid while they are decomposing as a method of inhibiting the growth of other plants within the drip line of the trees. Once the needles are fully decomposed, they are harmless other than the fact that dense coverage of the soil with the needles also inhibits the growth of other plants. As I understand it, this really does not have any impact on the ph of the soil. Other pines release chemical toxins that inhibit the uptake of nitrogen by other plants. Competition in the plant world is incredibly interesting and complex. Since Slowstart did not identify the type of pine tree that s/he removed, I recommended the Google search because how the trees compete for space in the forest varies. Smiles, Lyn...See MoreBlack spots around leaves, new growth dying
Comments (4)Is that the same Neurolaeneae hallucinogenic neotropical (Oaxaca, Mexico) composite herb that can be smoked or steeped? If so it also can strengthen memories especially promote vivid recollection of dreams suggesting that when you dream under its influence, your dreams will be more intensive. Your echinate will likely do well on an Echinancea (a somewhat close taxonomic relative) nutrient mix. From: Univ. AZ Echinacea cultivation paper complete hydroponic nutrient solution (Resh, 1997) with pH maintained between 5.5-6.5 and electrical conductivity (EC) between 2.0-2.6 mS cm-1. Recycled nutrient solution lost to transpiration or evaporation was replenished daily, and the nutrient solution was replaced once a week. Greenhouse temperatures were maintained between 75-78ðF (day) and 68-74ðF (night) during the entire trial period. Wow, look at those beautiful roots the researchers got. Pretty sure that isn't a nutrient problem, but rather some sort of disease. If I had to guess I would say a pathogenic bacterium like from Xanthomonas leaf spot. for orientation: Xanthomonas campestris vesicatoria Disease Cycle Wiki Sweet dreams ;-) This post was edited by PupillaCharites on Fri, Oct 4, 13 at 15:38...See MoreRubber Tree Dying! Brown spots and shriveling browning leaves
Comments (26)Generally speaking - and I'm no expert here, just have a few houseplants and have been learning a lot from this forum - some plants such as the softer leaves ones will show their displeasure and happiness quite quickly by wilting or perking up quite quickly. But I think some of the thicker leaved firmer plants can look ok for some time even when declining (more water reserves, stronger leaf structure,etc), for example sansevieria (snake plants), so maybe rubber plants are like this too. What I'm trying to say is it may have been going downhill for longer than the two weeks of obvious symptoms. Plus it's possible really high numbers of fungus gnat larvae could have munched on the really fine feeder roots. Although I thought the roots looked good overall. I don't know about the white bugs, you'd need to be sure what they were to know if they damaged it. And the (necessary) repotting was another stress on the plant. Many factors to consider, playing plant detective. It may well be the additive effect of several things. You've had lots of good advice from the experienced people above, on light and soils etc. Personally I would now put it in a bright warm draft-free spot inside, and wait. Don't let the roots dry right out while they're recovering but don't let the soil stay damp either. To achieve this, try using a spray bottle of water on a gentle jet to target where the pruned rootball is, and at the times when you do water more thoroughly leave the pot tilted at 45 degrees (even 30 degrees will help) for 15-20 minutes afterwards and then sit it on towels or paper pushed up against the drain holes for a couple hours. This isn't to remove all the water you just put in, it is to reduce the saturated layer that occurs at the bottom, the "perched water table" (yes, it has a name) Dont fertilise until you see new leaves growing and don't sunburn it by putting it in direct sunshine outside if it's not used to it. Good luck!...See MoreCalathea Zebrina w/black/brown spots after pest prevention treatment
Comments (1)Hi Rezz, My advice for the future would be to either use an insecticide from the store and follow the mixing instructions or get a homemade pesticide recipe from an experienced gardener and follow that person's mixing instructions rather than winging it. Most insecticides kill insects on contact so spraying the plant in order to prevent pests isn't effective. That being said, I think your plant might have bugs on it. When I enlarged your photos I saw some things that look like they might be bugs. In the last photo the leaf in the background has a yellow spot that looks like it could be an aphid. In the next to the last photo, the leaf at the bottom of the picture has a white dot that looks like it could be an insect next to one of the black spots. And photo #4, the leaf in the upper right corner has a yellow dot next to the midrib vein that looks like an aphid. Right now I wouldn't do anything else that's going to stress your plant. Deanna...See Moresocks
7 years agojake mccann
7 years agoJessica Siao
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoKyia Rutherford
2 years agotapla (mid-Michigan, USDA z5b-6a)
2 years agolast modified: 2 years ago
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