Curtains in model homes are usually custom.

I don't know where that rug came from as someone else above had suggested it but I found a few similar ones on Wayfair.com. Here are a few, there are more... https://www.wayfair.com/rugs/pdp/bungalow-rose-ameesha-oriental-blueivory-area-rug-wlao3830.html https://www.wayfair.com/rugs/pdp/mistana-hillsby-oriental-dark-bluelight-gray-area-rug-w005411520.html?piid=195825670 https://www.wayfair.com/rugs/pdp/bungalow-rose-christa-oriental-creamnavy-area-rug-w006988067.html?piid=849085108 https://www.wayfair.com/rugs/pdp/mistana-hillsby-oriental-dark-bluelight-gray-area-rug-w005411520.html

Thanks for responding. I have a bay window with three arched leaded glass windows (the two side windows are each 22” wide, the center window is 62” wide). I plan to have a continuous road hung high with only a single panel on each end. The panels (when I finally get them) are hung via grommets. I don’t want the black rod spanning the center window to appear obtrusive against my Wool Skein wall color. Thoughts?

To train my drapes (which I make myself) I hang them up, open the drapes all the way over to the side. Then I staple strips of paper (about 3-4” wide) around the pleats after I’ve got them hanging how I want them, in about 5 places down the length of the drapes and leave them there for 4-5 days. I always line my curtains and use weights (or slip a coin into the bottom corners). I also use buckram (encased) at the top to give some stability before they are pleated. . The curtains are ironed throughout the process, but the pleats are not ironed (after they’ve been pleated). I use a pleat calculator to determine how many pleats I need. I always use 2 1/2 x the width of the window for fabric fullness. I use the long hooks (2 1/2”? ..it’s been a while) which gives structure to the pleat heading (but it depends on how ”deep” your header is). I also make them so they overlap in the middle, which requires a special overlap type of “ring” - can’t remember the name. Your drapes look nice !