Mini splits will likely cost more in equipment but enable you to set different rooms to different temps. Most of them have inverter-driven, variable speed compressors. This helps with humidity control if you have mild temps with high humidity. You'd have to talk with an engineer or get more data than I have been able to see to be sure, but I think that the inverter-driven compressors a lower magnitude of starting surge compared to more conventional motors. This might be easier for your PV inverters to handle. It will be easier for the PV inverters if you have more than one compressor for sure. If you decide to go mini-split, look up other posts about them in this forum.

Thanks guys, I got a new quote today. Lenox Elite Series XL16 -036-230 Compressor 2 Stage Variable Speed 3 Ton Air Handler Lennox Signature Model # CBX32MV-036-230 Variable Speed Quote: $6,600.00 plus $500.00 Lennox Rebate & $500.00 JCP&L rebate total cost $5,500.00 after rebates. Question, is it more efficient to have a 2 stage compressor in my area as we only use the A/Cfor about 4/1/2 months . The XL17 in my second quote is a single stage in the Signature Series. There is a $1,500.00 difference in the pricing. Also the air handler in the second quote is the top handler in the Signature Series. Your yhougjts would be greayly appreciated.

Hey tigerdunes, I agree - getting a breaker installed properly and up to code is priority, so whatever path I take that will have to be part of it. I have Washington Gas and NOVEC Electric. Gas is First 25 therms 47.91â Next 100 therms 30.58â Over 125 therms 25.73â Gas bill for last month TOTAL THERMS (TH) USED 122.8 25.0 TH @ $.4796 $11.99 97.8 TH @ $.3063 $29.96 ALL APPLICABLE RIDERS $3.13 SYSTEM CHARGE $11.25 PGC @ $.5026 $61.72 NATURAL GAS SUPPLY SERVICE LOCAL UTILITY TAX $3.00 ST.& LOCAL CONSUMPTION TAX $2.29 TOTAL GAS CHARGES $123.34 IâÂÂve only been here since September 2011, but IâÂÂve typically averaged 125-130 for gas in the winter, 30-50 in the summer and anywhere from 60-85 in the fall. I donâÂÂt have the NOVEC rates handy at the moment, but I average $50-$70 most months and anywhere between $110-$160 in the summer. I believe I'm working with the original boiler for my baseboard radiant heating by the way. The costs weren't ridiculously high as you can see, but I am worried that it could crap out on me any winter now, which is why I was considering the heat pump to potentially help extend its life by offsetting the amount it had to work at all temperatures. Company A said the addition of a heat pump would probably add around $600-700 whereas Company B said that the addition of a heat pump would add $1,175. The heat pump coupled with the new electric work would be way past my budget, but if it saves me an additioanl $5-6k on paying for a new boiler next year while also dropping some monthly costs, perhaps it's worth it? Are the original quotes and the additional heat pump expenses in line for the DC Metro area (or in general), in your opinion? Thanks again for your help!

Radiators do not dry the air any more than any other heat source. All other things being equal, the only things that affect the final relative humidity are the absolute humidity in the air and the air temperature. What makes indoor air dry in winter is excessive air exchange with outdoor air. The moisture that is produced by ordinary living (breathing, cooking, bathing and cleaning) leaks out. Poorly designed and installed ducted, forced air, heat can make matters worse by inducing pressure differentials turning the forced air system into a power vent. If you have excessively dry air, put money into air sealing your structure. It will pay off handsomely in summer and winter. Steam heat radiators that are installed well in a good design and maintained properly can be silent, or nearly so. There is something wrong with your system. I am not saying that you can easily fix it, but there is something wrong. A competent steam contractor will know how to add a steam heat exchanger to your current cooling duct set-up. High temperature steam is ideal for a relatively compact heat exchanger. The main problems might be how to run the pipes and if there is room for the heat exchanger. You may not be able to move enough air to heat even though you can move enough in the current ducts to cool sufficiently. It may not be practical for those considerations. If cost is no object, you might be able to add radiant heat to the floors via a steam to water heat exchanger with an associated circulator pump and expansion tank. You may be able to find a contractor on a forum that has a lot of "steam heads" posting. Try heatinghelp.com and terry love.com.