WOW, to the guy that mentioned pythium blight. I think this is exactly what it is. I went to Google Images, and it looks really similar. It also sort of occurs in the same area every year which as OP mentioned, it's probably a fungus. AND, I think I know what's triggering it. Its my June Summerguard fertlization. I think the high nitrogen is causing it. Because my neighbors lawn is perfect and she does not fertilize in the summer. Read below. WOW if this is what it is, I am so grateful to you guys. INFO: Cultural practices can be used to promote an environment where infection by Pythium species is limited. Irrigation is an important cultural practice to monitor. Watering early in the day will allow grass blades to dry and thus decrease the probability of leaves remaining wet overnight. Irrigation also has an impact on the relative humidity within the foliar canopy of turfgrasses. This is the major reason that late afternoon and evening watering should be avoided on warm days. Providing for good surface and subsurface drainage when establishing new turfgrass sites, and renovating areas where water can pool in established turfgrass areas is another important step in Pythium blight management. Removing thatch can improve drainage, reduce drought and nutrient stress on turf and remove sources of Pythium inoculum. Thatch should be removed if it is greater than 0.6-1.2 cm (0.25-0.5 in.) in depth, depending on height of cut. Thatch is removed by vertical mowing and topdressing with sand or soil. A balanced system of turfgrass nutrition is also a key to controlling Pythium blight. Excessive fertility during hot months, particularly nitrogen, can exacerbate disease pressure. Levels of nitrogen applied to turf should be monitored, and monthly applications of less than 25 kg of nitrogen per ha (0.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet) during periods of hot weather are recommended. When applying nitrogen-based fertilizers use slow-release sources or "spoon-feed" turf with light foliar applications of fertilizer during spring or summer when occurrence of Pythium blight is most likely. Avoid calcium deficiency and maintain a slightly acidic soil pH. Promote good air flow across golf greens and other areas of turf by pruning trees and shrubs to promote light penetration and increase air movement to dry. When mowing, avoid areas of wet turf when the temperature is > 21ðC (70ðF), as this will help minimize the spread of the pathogen. Wash mowing equipment before entering unaffected areas. Also, alleviate soil compaction, in order to improve turfgrass root growth. When overseeding with cool-season turfgrass species, delay the process until late summer or early fall when the nighttime temperatures have cooled to

As long as new owners are informed.. i would go for it. Over the past 7 years of being in my home (that was a barren grass lawn when we moved in.. and now has many good sized gardens) i have made many comments to the wife about if we ever move.. i am going to need an extra moving truck to move the gardens too!

You are actually pretty close (in LA terms) to a few places I was going to suggest. First, the King Tut exhibition is going on in the LA County Museum of Art. Being in LA, you should purchase your tickets in advance. More info is here. It is pretty close to the convention center from what I remember. A must see for you is the J Paul Getty Museum. Again, get tickets in advance. It's a little north of where the 405 and 10 meet--1/2 hour or so drive from where you are. More info here. Of course, you are also right next to Universal Studios if you are that type. Hollyweird is also nearby should you have the urge. As for garden type stuff, Huntington gardens should be fairly close to you. More info here and you should know the Getty Museum also has an adjoining garden. What else? The Walt Disney Concert Hall is a really cool building and always has something going on. It is downtown also. Old town Pasadena is also pretty cool and close. The La Brea Tar pits aren't too far either. Of course, if you get bored you can drive through Beverly Hills towards Santa Monica and go to the beach. That's all off off of the top of my head. It depends on what you like to do. Enjoy your trip--I will be there this weekend. I will see if I can remember any other stuff while I am there.

OkieDokieArtichokie, It is never too late to start over, but I agree with Dorothy that at this point it makes more sense to buy a few transplants and put them into the ground.Choose varieties with DTMs in the 55-75/80 day range and if you put them in the ground soon, you still could be harvesting tomatoes in June or July. Since we have had such cold weather recurring every week, I imagine the stores have a good supply of tomatoes for all those customers who have had their tomatoes frozen, frosted or snowed upon. If you sow tomato seeds now, putting them in the ground in the next two or three days, they likely won't sprout for 5-10 days, depending on how warm your soil temperatures are. So, let's say they sprout by May 5th. They likely wouldn't be big enough to start blooming, even if everything went well and the plants had no setbacks whatsoever, until mid-June. Most years, the kinds of temperatures (daytime highs roughly above 90-92 degrees and nighttime lows roughly around 72-75 degrees) that shut down good fruit set arrive around late June through mid-July depending on where you are in the state (and sometimes as early as May, especially in SW OK) so you don't get many fruit forming during that time, except during an occasional colder, rainy day or on cherry tomato plants. So, you wouldn't harvest many, if any, tomatoes until fall. That would drive me up the wall...having to wait so long when everyone around me was harvesting tomatoes in June or July. With peppers, if you direct sow hot peppers now, you might be harvesting by July or August. Much would depend on the varieties and their DTMs, as well as how quickly or slowly the peppers germinated. Peppers need really warm soil to germinate and we still are having enough cold nights to keep the soils a little cool. Sweet peppers are a little less likely to set fruit well in hot weather. so either from seed or transplant, you could be harvesting sweet peppers sometime in the summer, but maybe not until fall. It depends on how hot it gets and on how early it gets hot. Just because it is mild right now doesn't mean it won't be 100 degrees in May....or 90 degrees this weekend or next week. Our weather is very erratic. In the future, when you are hardening off plants, if they start looking bad, immediately stop the hardening off process and keep the plants either indoors or in full shade until new growth comes out above the damaged part. Then, you start the hardening off process all over again at 1 hour the first day, 2 hours the second day, etc. Any time the hardening off process is interrupted, like if cold weather causes you to keep the plants indoors for more than 24 hours, it is best to start over at square one/one hour per day again. Tomato and pepper plants lose their hardening-off real fast if you have to move them back indoors during a cold spell. Once damage occurs, more sunlight just tends to intensify the damage if you keep putting the plants outside before they can heal. Would I pop seeds into the ground today? Only if it was my only option. Transplants would be 1000% better at this point. One problem is that the weather models are showing very cold weather late next week. If the models verify, you could have tiny seedlings popping their heads up out of the ground just in time for a freeze or frost to get them late next week...if they germinated that quickly, and sometimes fresh seeds germinate in just a day or two or three if the soil temps are in the right range. Brandywine has superb flavor, and if it produced well at all in our climate, I could be happy growing nothing but Brandywine. It has the best flavor of any tomato I've ever tasted. Unfortunately, it produces very few fruit per plant most years here. I have had one great Brandywine year here, and I think it was in 2002. Most other years, I considered myself lucky to get maybe 6 fruit total off a Brandywine plant. That's totally unacceptable when there are so many other varieties that produce tons of tomatoes. The only Brandywine I grow, when I grow it at all, is True Black Brandywine which has produced really well here most years that I've grown it, producing both early and in quantity. Instead of Brandywine I grow a Brandywine x Cherokee Purple cross named Gary O Sena that was developed and stabilized by Keith Mueller. It has superb flavor, produces early and produces many more fruit per plant than Brandywine does in our climate. Another option is a hybrid from Burpee called Brandy Boy. Its flavor isn't as good as Brandywine or Gary O Sena but it still is very, very good and Brandy Boy produces well in our heat. If I was getting a late start, Brandywine would be the last variety I'd plant because I'd know it wouldn't set fruit until very late summer or fall, and the fruit have a good chance of freezing before they ripen. For fall tomatoes, you want varieties with a relatively short DTM of maybe 55-75 or even 80 days. Brandywine in our climate is more of an 85-95 or 100 day DTM. It simply won't flower and set fruit in excessive heat and guess what kind of heat we tend to have all summer long? I don't know which part of the state you're in, but if you would mention at least your region...central OK, northeastern OK, etc., there might be somebody here on this forum who has extra plants they'd be willing to share. You certainly don't have to give your exact location or town or even county, but you might have a forum member in your general area that might have extra plants to share. A lot of us who grow our own tomato usually grow extras because the weather and the wildlife have so many ways of destroying our plants that it makes sense to raise extras. I'm planning to meet with a forum member on Sunday so I can give that person some of my extra plants as replacements for freeze-killed or frost-damaged ones. You might have someone near you who would be willing to do the same. Dawn