So close ---- final decision - pendants/chandelier
7 years ago
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- 7 years ago
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Final Decisions; Thumbs up or down?
Comments (8)I can speak to the PGM from personal experience. We've had one at the lake house for about a year. Things I like about it: The burners give a nice range of cooking options. The 15K large burner, while not volcanic, is adequate for almost any cooking short of stir fry or major league searing (multiple large steaks on a large pan). The two dedicated simmer burners go very low, enough that I can cook polenta and keep it steaming but never bubbling. The cool blue lights on the control knobs. Mostly just for looks but does make it easy to see where the knobs are set from a distance. The "shot peened" SS finish around the burners. Definely shows stains and fingerprints much less than standard SS. It's not bulletproof though: one of the first things I did on the cooktop was to do some high heat cooking without bothering to wipe up some oil that had spattered around the burner. The result was burned on brown spots that did not come off with anything I tried. However, an email to Dacor was quickly responded to, and the recommendation to use oven cleaner took the spots right up with no damage to top. Grates are heavy, stable, and continuous to allow pot sliding. Things I don't like: Burner layout. I would have preferred the 15K burner to be front and center, rather than front and left. The left side location compromises smoke capture versus the central location, and I do get spilloever when searing hard (using our 600 cfm VAH hood, about which I've posted several times). Also wish at least one of the simmer burners was in the rear row of burners. If I had to simmer two pans, I would have no access to the rear left and center burners. The non-shot peened SS finish around the control knobs is hard to keep clean-looking--but that's true of all SS finishes. Overall, I have been quite happy with it. It's not a high end range, but for the price I think it's a good solid cooktop. Otherwise I can only comment on what we've chosen for our renovation of the main house kitchen, which began last Monday. We went with the Therm columns. Loved the fully integrated look. Liked the ability to combine fridge and freezer sizes (we did 30'' and 18'') unlike the SZ 700's (only 27'' available). Did not want to take a chance on delayed release dates for the new SZ BI series. Same concern over the Miele columns, and furthermore couldn't justify the close to 50% higher price vs the Therms, for extras like WiFi monitoring. The install does look like it will live up to expectations: I've already had complaints from my plumber about having to bring in water from the side, through the adjacent cabinet. I am hoping that paying the authorized Therm installer to put them in ($750!!) will avoid problems. Didn't look at your other choices, was focused on fully integrated units. We're also doing Franke fireclay sinks: Orca for main and a 15'' rectangular for prep. Also went with Miele DW: in our case, Excellas. Based mainly on the positive posts on GW, and the feature set. Hate that we got nailed with the price increase: no one warned us and we could have placed the order a week earlier if I had known. Hood: I've posted extensively on them. Short version: we're using a custom Modern Aire 64'' hood liner inside a range alcove over the 55'' Lacanche Cluny 1400 range. Fantech FKD 10XL blower and LD10 silencer to be mounted in attic using 10'' duct. Sounds like we thought alike on many of these decisions. Good Luck!!...See MoreFinal decisions, floor plan help pls (Bevangel, Summerfield, etc!
Comments (45)Hey Kirkhall, glad to see you're still moving forward! But, I thought there was a vent stack just about exactly where the hinges on the door into the NW bedroom are shown. Have you decided to go ahead and move that vent stack or am I just misremembering exactly where it was? Could you show exactly where the vent stack will be on the drawing above? I don't want to spend too much time playing with your sketch only to find out that that danged vent stack is in the way of every idea. But, I do agree that the sketch your GC's designer provided looks awkward. I'm comfortable with angled walls but they do need to look PLANNED! Where two walls meet at 135 degrees (90 + 45) they usually look planned. And, if you have two matching sets of angled walls that meet at 120 degrees (90 + 30) or at 150 degrees (90 + 60) they also usually look planned. But,where (as here) walls meet at some other odd angle, they often look like a mistake was made in the building process and the angled wall was just stuck in willy-nilly to make all the walls connect up. I'm wondering if something like this would work. (Probably depends on where that danged vent stack is!) The hallway to your bedroom would be made about a bit wider and the laundry closet a bit shallower than on your GC's design...but the laundry closet still should be plenty wide for the washer and dryer to sit at the ends as shown on the GC's design. The dotted red line is just to show how I envision the wall beside the NW bedroom would line up with the outer wall of the laundry closet. The only angled walls would be one at the top of the stairs and one in your bedroom and both would meet other walls at 135 degrees instead of some odd angle. If you put a small triangular table or some nick-knack shelves in the corner across from the hallway angled wall, you would create an angled hallway effect that would look planned rather than haphazard. I know one issue you're dealing with with the girls bedroom closets is that you have a kneewall at one side which is making it hard to figure out how to fit in a full sized door. But I think you could do their closets like this using 24" wide regular doors set where you have a full height ceilings. (Yes, I know 24" wide doors aren't exactly "optimal" but where space is tight, they will work FINE as closet doors, particularly for a child's closet!) Both closets would then be shallow walk-in closets (3.5 ft deep x about 6.5 ft wide) with hanging rods to the left and right of the door and a narrow aisle down the middle. Since you wouldn't have to walk very far into the closet, it wouldn't matter that the aisleway was narrow. Obviously, on the side with the low ceiling, you would not have any storage above the hanging rod but I had a similar closet in one of the secondary bedrooms of our old house that was built under a stairway and it was actually pretty functional. With kid's closets, you often want to put set the hanging rod pretty low anyway....See Moreback again.. final? layout decision help
Comments (19)I like Option 3 the best. I also prefer the refrigerator location in Option 3. It looks to be the most functional layout of the lot. The problem with the refrigerator on the opposite end of the kitchen from the range (on the sink wall) is that it's now inaccessible to the Prep & Cooking Zones without either running around the island or doing a lot of zone-crossing...refrigerator-thru Cleanup Zone-to-Prep Zone and back; refrigerator-thru Cleanup Zone-to-Cooking Zone and back. It's especially an issue b/c you have such a narrow aisle b/w the island and sink wall (it looks like 36"). Imagine doing all that running back & forth with a DW open and/or someone else working at the sink. In that location, the refrigerator is also pretty far from the MW and most foods that are MW'd come from the refrigerator or freezer. OTOH, with the refrigerator on the wall near the garage, it's right next to the Cooking Zone and easily accessed from the Prep Zone (the counter b/w the sink and range). (If you plan to use the island as a Prep Zone, I recommend a sink and, possibly, a wider aisle b/w the island and sink.) It's also right next to the MW. Personally, I like having all the appliances nearby that I need when prepping & cooking...without having to navigate around obstacles...things or people! The other advantage of having the refrigerator (and pantry) near the garage is that when you bring groceries in, you enter the kitchen right where they need to go to be put away. Island...you will have only a 9.5" seating overhang. 1.5" overhang + 24" cabinets + 1" decorative door on the back of the island = 26.5" 36" - 26.5" = 9.5" seating overhang You also have a rather narrow aisle behind the island (only 40" to the back wall). Even though you're skimping on the seating overhang, people will still take up the same amount of room in that aisle as if you had at least a 15" overhang...the stools will be pushed out b/c you can't fold up your legs to fit under the overhang, all you can do is have the stool farther out into the aisle and then lean forward...or maybe "straddle" the island (legs spread to "shorten" the distance b/w your hip and knees). With the minimum overhang, it's still recommended an aisle behind seating be at least 44". If that aisle b/w the island and back wall is going to be as busy as you say it is, you may regret it over time. My SIL has a 36" aisle b/w her refrigerator and island with a 12" seating overhang on a similarly located aisle (door to garage w/DR on the left and FR straight ahead)...and she became so frustrated w/the lack of space b/w them plus all that traffic that she removed the stools from the kitchen. It's not that the refrigerator is there, it's that if someone is sitting at her island, no one can pass by without forcing those sitting to get up and move out of the way....and they're a very thin family! I don't know what to tell you about the seating...except not have it...and I know you really want it. I guess this will have to be one of the compromises you make in your kitchen; we all have to make some compromises when our "wants" aren't compatible with what we have to work with....... Dimensions....in option 3, the arrow goes b/w the wall and the cabinets...not to the other wall. However, when I count boxes, that 11'4" measurement appears to be DR/FR wall-to-sink wall. If that's the case, I think you have a little less space than you realize. (The refrigerator wall cabs appear to stick out no further than the DR/FR wall, is that correct?) 11'4" = 136" 25.5" sink wall + 36" aisle + 36" island + 40" aisle = 137.5" So, one of the aisles will be 1.5" narrower than you show...which one? The work aisle really needs the full 36", minimum, and the busy aisle also needs as much space as possible... [Of course, if you have 0" counter overhang, then the overhang doesn't count and you're back to the 36" and 40" aisles.] Another compromise somewhere? Good luck!...See MoreGetting close to decision. Need final input please.
Comments (4)Seriously? You like the board and batten? Does it work well in combination with shingles? I never considered it until I came to Houzz. Below are a few inspiring photos. Hubby wants dark garage doors. I said no, until I saw this 3rd pic....See More- 7 years ago
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