I don't remember posting on the John Bridge site, although I have read as many related posts as I could find. Today is the day of reckoning... I contacted my builder a month ago and explained the problem. I could not find a contractor who would commit to the job. Under the builder's oversight, a "new" contractor (with 27 years of experience) is here today ripping out the tile. So far, it seems that the backerboard was run over the flange of the Swan shower pan. Also, the front corner areas where there was no flange were not properly caulked before the tile was set so the water that was getting behind the tile overflowed to the front of the curb. Addtionally, it seems that the areas where the grout was cracked were allowing water to penetrate. They are ripping out the entire first row of tile, down to the studs. We'll see what else they find. So far, no mold but it is moist back there. I have also found that the "weep hole" issue is hotly debated. (see link) At this point, I'll have to stick with the concept of having weep holes given the amount of water flowing from the holes. If all that water were to remain behind the tile, I can't imagine what would happen. Wish me luck. By the way, I guess I moved my pictures. If anyone wants to see them again, I will repost. Just say the word. Here is a link that might be useful: Weep hold question on John Bridge

I wouldn't be so much worried about cracking surrounding tiles. That risk can almost be completely eliminated by scoring the grout out around the tiles to be removed. The thing I'd worry about is destroying the wallboard behind the tiles, and for that, there IS no way to really eliminate the risk. The best I could say would be to tap as lightly as you can and still be effective with a hammer to break the tiles out. I think I'd agree with calling a pro for this.

Generally, they put the tub surround in and then drywall up to it. When you take it out, you are going to be down to the studs already. If you really want a different color tub, now would be the time to do it. It sounds like you will be ripping out the floor and surround at the very least. Once you get those out, disconnecting the tub and installing a new one is not that much more work. The real work in tiling is waterproofing the walls and making sure any moisture drains back into the tub area. It can be a DIY project, but you need to do your homework first. You can't just put up some drywall and tile the shower. Grout is not waterproof, so you need a water tight barrier behind that to keep moisture from getting into the wall cavity and causing mold and rot. It is one of those jobs where if you screw it up, you probably won't see any visible damage for years, but the problem will be slowly growing out of sight. On the flip side, the fiberglass surrounds are already waterproof. You basically just screw them in and then caulk. You'll likely have to replace some of the surrounding drywall, but that is a very low cost project. It is obviously a lower end finish, but it is much easier to install.

While doing a deep-dive through a Q&A for my specific brand of tile, I found that another customer had asked the same question and this was the manufacturer response: ”Hi, Thank you for your question regarding our 8x48 Natural Timber porcelain tile. When the tile goes through the kiln, we (like all tile manufacturers) place a solution on the bottom of the tile to ensure the tile does not bake/stick to the conveyor belt. Once the tile is fired, that solution becomes a white powder that should just brush off as you pull the tile out of the master carton. There is no adhering agent, but maybe there has been some humidity along the way and it is not just falling off. Using some non-abrasive cleaning solution (water mixed with some vinegar would be fine) and some "elbow grease" will remove the white color.” I guess that answers that!