Hi Honeybasil, I'm sorry the Wythe Blue didn't work out in your rooms... I think it was probably my LR/ DR photos you saw . I have to believe it all depends on the light you have in your particular room. It doesn't look at all baby blue in my rooms... much more of a green-blue. My living room gets sun all morning, and the dining room gets late afternoon light. The color does seem to change throughout the day, which I really like. Looking forward to seeing your Misted Green walls!

According to encycolorpedia, SW High Reflective White is a close match, followed by Whitetail and then White Flour. You can see other brands and colors here. The "e" number is how different it is from the original...the larger the "e" the less like the original it is.

Lori, Did you really refer me to a Facebook post that you wrote to defend your position? Wow - that was convincing. I am equally convinced that your $59 tool was built to exacting standards that exceed those standards that SW used to extract RGB values of their paint colors or the tools employed by encycolorpedia or EASY RGB. Everyone is doing things wrong if they are not doing it your way. CNet painted 18 samples, using real paint samples and Color Muse selected the right color 5 out of 18 times, but they are a hot mess. John the Math Guy is an expert in color science and applied mathematics. He's just consulting with large corporations to ensure their brand color is correctly printed. He isn't measuring paint color on walls, so everything he said is invalid. RGB is absolutely useless - it is machine dependent and not based on human perception of color. I'm not sure what they used in 1860 to create the color model, but I must belive that it couldn't have been human perception of color. You know they had to be primitive - they only used 3 colors of light to create the color model, unlike the cones in the human eye or the "Tri" stimulus values used by color muse. "The RGB color model itself does not define what is meant by red, green and blue colorimetrically, and so the results of mixing them are not specified as absolute, but relative to the primary colors. When the exact chromaticities of the red, green, and blue primaries are defined, the color model then becomes an absolute color space, such as sRGB or Adobe RGB". But just because I can exactly replicate a color using an RGB color space, if my tools are accurately calibrated, I should not use those values because they are machine dependent. I should just use my handy color muse, display the color on my cell phone app or computer and not be dependent on the accuracy of some machine to be certain that my evaluation of color is dead on. I will try to remember not to challenge your knowledge in the future, as you are the one and only true color expert.

As for recommendations for colors I always start, like you, with a few samples, then decide if I need to go a bit more gray or more colorful, a bit warmer or a bit cooler. I use a tool called easyrgb, and my eyes, to help get me where I need to be ( https://www.easyrgb.com ) You can look up a color and see what the similar colors are to a specific color and limit the selection to the brands you are considering. The site uses a very high quality spectrophotometer to read colors from unused fan decks. Fan decks are printed using very good color matching technology and high levels of quality control, but they are not perfect and there is always some discrepancies, but it is a great starting place. I also have a color muse ($50.00 tristimulous color matching tool) that is good for comparing two colors and will provide you with color matches to popular brands of paint colors. It is a $50.00 tool, so don't expect perfection - but again, it will get you close. If you have something that you own that is the color you are looking to match it is the only tool that most of us can afford that will give you the information needed to get close. I have also sometimes used something as simple as excel to help me get to the right color. You can look up the RGB value - color two or three cells with the RGB Value, then change the color in one of the cells using the "More colors" option and the HSL option and I can make a color a bit less or more saturated, a bit lighter or darker, a bit warmer or cooler and then look up the new RGB value in Easy RGB and see what colors it suggests. Computers/monitors in general suck at rendering color accurately, but as long as I have something that I know I can move from that color to the correction and get where I want to be as a final result. The best numbers to use to slightly alter a color is probably the LCH notation in EasyRGB. Look up the color you like in easyrgb Hit the convert button and you will see the LCH notation. L = light (100 is white, 0 is black) C =Chroma (0 is neutral gray and the higher the number the more colorful the color becomes) H= Hue - what is the Hue measurement of the color Red=18 Orange = 54 Yellow=90 Green=160 Blue=234 Purple=306 Blue Heron CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 45.533 16.209 275.902° If I then look up the two closest SW colors I get Denim Blue - Just a bit less purple more true blue - just a bit more saturated - less gray and just slightly lighter CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 46.929 16.932 270.463° and Luxe Blue - more purple - not the direction I want to go. CIE-L*Ch(ab) = 45.501 18.259 279.397° Before buying samples of anything more I use my eyes - take the chips into natural daylight and look at them next to each other to see if what I am expecting is what I am seeing.