Well they were probably not exposed to a lot of light, the redness is a sign of stress. Maybe slowly expose them to the sun. Assume they are greenhouse grown and need acclimation to the outside environment. It's not that unusual, all should be fine. Increase sun exposure daily. You should do this with all new plants. Start them in shade and increase direct sun exposure over a 2 week period. Maybe now leave them in the shade a couple days, then one hour,direct sun next day 2 etc. Everything else you did seems proper, so my guess is acclimation, or possibly cold, but that looks like sun damage to me. And I agree pot looks dry, but so do mine as the top layer of these mixes often dry, but are very wet an inch down, so really do not need water. Keep it moist not wet or dry. If after 2 days in shade, the redness decreases, it was too quick a transition to sun exposure. If still red, it may be another problem.

Reprogram it immediately for 3x per week and about 25% more time. The goal here is to reach once a week watering, a full inch at a time (if nature hasn't delivered it). For that reason, I'm not a fan of auto-programmed timers unless they've also got an integrated moisture monitor or ET (evapotranspiration) sensor. Every two to three weeks, remove 1 of the weekly waterings and increase the time appropriately. Also, measure the amount of water going down by putting used tuna cans on the lawn (tuna cans happen to be almost exactly an inch, so you can get a good visual guide). If it rains, it counts, and if I have to irrigate I often try to time it with a rainfall (the neighbors think I'm insane) to bring the total up to 1". Watering excessively tends to encourage thin, weak roots and (ta da!) fungal diseases. Plus excess weeds, insect problems, and so on. In southern Minnesota, you're going to be able to get away with less than once a week through most of the season, but probably not in July and August. Here in eastern Pennsylvania, I last irrigated in May. The lawn looks great, but we've had a fair amount of rain through June and July, and while August is drier, we're getting enough to hold the lawn with no issues.

it needs to be warmer then 68F, it prefers to be above 75F at all times and 75F-85F is the best for it. then you can water it much more often. and it would do better with some warming late-early partial sun, especially in winter. when they get a chill they throw these huge spots on leaves. Damp and cool does it, usually in winter. It leeds to root rot and those huge spots like you got. 65f is winter for it and 68F is deep fall ;) . but i see you are in 9b-10b, so you can't be That cold. Lift it off the floor (it's cooler there) at least and put it into better light. the soil should not be drying up more then half-way at any rate and it should be light enough for you to water once a week. if your soil takes 2 weeks to dry - that's too wet for 68F for sure and you need to lighten the mix as recommended above. it'll pass once the temps rise and it grows new roots. It looks to be a strong plant, so it should survive this. smaller ones might not though.

I didn’t think it was a match for Alternaria either, pretty close, but these are very light surface scars. I did have some tomatoes crack in addition to the cracking in the photo. Thanks! I’ll treat the plants for stink bugs and keep my fingers crossed.