Buddleia davidii - Moist chill (stratify)of 2-4 weeks may improve germination but isn't strictly necessary. Surface sow, do not exclude light, @ approx 70F for germination in 20-30 days. They shouldn't be difficult for you, such prolific self sowers here we can no longer plant, noxious invasive :) Same in Oregon, and a while back they were getting some attention in Massachusetts but I don't know what their status might be in Illinois or the other colder states in 2010.

There is a great place called Tomato ville (one word) on the web that details this at great length. Wherever you go, here are some of the most important bits of information. Use a seedling mix to start your seeds, not a soil mix which will be too heavy. Do not bury the seeds too deep! It is OK to have plastic over the soil to get the seeds sprouted but as soon as they sprout, remove the cover. Excess moisture will kill your seedlings faster than anything else. This time of year you are unlikely to have the sun intensity coming thru windows that will give you fat stocky seedlings. Supplement with grow lights. Keep the bulbs very low, just over the top of the seedlings for best results. I move my seedlings outside into a cold frame as soon as they have their first true set of leaves. Bottom water seedlings. Moisture on leaves increases disease. Airflow via a fan in the room or natural air currents helps prevent disease and make stockier stems. Don't fertilize until you have the first set of true leaves and then make it very very weak. If you get stretching due to low light, transplant into deeper containers and carefully bury the step up to just below the top set of leaves. A tall weak seedling is bad. Stocky strong seedlings is what you want. Get the plants into natural light as soon as feasible Plant a few extra for the times you, your pets or your kids kill things accidentally. If everything survives, give the extra plants away! Have fun! You are right, growing from seed is way more rewarding. Plus in doing so, you reduce the chances of bringing diseases into you yard as well as greatly expanding the variety of things you can grow.

I have been starting flower seeds indoors for years and have a great deal of experience with success and failure. I wanted some information on heating mats and saw the discussion. Last year was the first year I used a heat mat but had to buy new ones this year due to losing my home and contents to a fire. I bought one mat from a trusted garden supply (too expensive) 2 off the internet, and recently a kit with mat from a big box store. On this last one I was appalled that the directions stated you should put the mat on a timer. I was told by my trusted garden shop that I needed the timer on the lights but that mats need to be on 24/7, which I already knew. So when I read the box, I hit the internet for answers. I have used a small enclosure off the finished part of the basement for my plant room, with grow lights timers, shelves, etc. and have had some wonderful results. When they did the rebuild I told them I wanted the same but refined. I have four outlets with a programmable timer and 4 outlets without timer for heat mats. I just started my first tray last night with heating mat, dome and light about 2" above dome, giving them 8 hours of darkness each day. I do not have a thermostat but a thermometer. My home thermostat drops to 64 while at work 5 days a week, to 67 during the night and is around 70-72 the rest of the time. So I will am hoping the mat will make up for the fluctuations. Even though I have been growing from seed indoors for years, I still need lots of help. Over the years I have heard that seeds do not need light to germinate, only heat. Others say they need both. I have always heard that once the seedlings emerge, both the dome and heat goes off. I have notes that say light should be no more than 6" above plants while others say no more than 1". I look forward to hearing more comments from newbies and veterans by joining this group. In the meantime, I just hope my snapdragons, impatiens and coleus I started last night will be off to a good start. I started later than I wanted and will be adding more tomorrow until all four mats and four hanging lights on the new plant are filled with trays. (and by the way, I freeze the seed packs before planting which shortens germination time too) Just thinking about my sad stories of losing plants from damping off, leggy plants, etc. but hope I can help others while learning more while waiting for Spring and a new garden in my newly built home. To think of the great results I have had with just egg cartons, covered with elastic bowl covers, near home heat source in front of sunny window, transplanted to Activia yogurt (perfect size) cups friends saved for me. So much fun learning on a small investment! Your thoughts are appreciated.

Caroline, I designed & started planting my garden beds to sustain pollinators--bees, butterflies & hummingbirds--in 2006. The beds are mature now as are the perennial plants that sustain them. I'm in southern New England so not even close to your Florida climate but I'll help to the extent I'm able. First off, visit your local library and check out a book titled 'The Well-Tended Perennial Garden' by Tracey Di Sabato-Aust. There's a wealth of terrific information in it as well as lists of plants and the USDA Zones where they thrive. Next, check out your local garden nurseries and ask questions. It's in their best interests to answer since they hope you'll buy plants from them. When I moved to this address I did a shade study--where did I have sun vs. shade and at what time of day. I started on June 21 (the summer solstice & longest day of the year) because where I am in southern New England, that determines what plants do well and where. Where you are your soil isn't slightly acidic sandy loam like mine. It's also part of gardening to understand your soil and work with it to allow plants to grow healthy and happy where you plant them. I've never lost a plant due to crappy soil but I worried about a few before they adjusted to my soil. I use NO chemicals. You'll decide for yourself if you do or don't. I can't buy a ripe cucumber from my local farm stand wondering if they've sprayed it with Round-Up. I use organic seaweed extract and organic fertilizer (worm poop) when it's needed but rarely do plants need anything if they're planted in healthy soil. Sorry to ramble so much but I hoped to keep you from wondering as I did when I first tackled gardening where I am. Best of luck to you.